SilencerCo threaded barrel. The gun was imported before the Gen 4 Canadian Edition with factory 106mm barrel existed.
G19 Light Primer Strikes
- Thread starter Wal-Mart Greeter
- Start date
SilencerCo threaded barrel. The gun was imported before the Gen 4 Canadian Edition with factory 106mm barrel existed.
- Location
- Maple Ridge, BC
take it to a smith. if it's firing out of battery things could get dicey
I’m not too sure what you mean by the barrel only has one shelf. It should have like a curved shelf to rest the end of the recoil spring in during assembly. Just going off that picture of the spring and the video the previous poster posted I a, going to guess it has so,etching to do with the spring not sitting properly. Maybe try to take a pic of the barrel shelves.
No no it DOES have two shelves it's just that the lower shelf, the one the recoil spring sits on, isn't curved like the pictures I see of factory Glock barrels. Both shelves are flat. I believe I may have assembled the gun & dry fired with the recoil spring sitting on the top shelf (without that obvious curve, this being my first Glock, I didn't know any better). I don't believe the gun was ever actually fired with the recoil spring on the top shelf, just manipulated with snap caps.
As if that doesn't make me look dumb enough, I went to the range tonight and fired 180 rounds with only 1 light primer strike. It was in the second magazine I fired. I took a very close look at the gun and I can say for 100% sure the slide was all the way forward. I then fired 16 mags of American Eagle 124gr FMJ with not a single light strike. Even knowing Glocks can be over lubricated, I think I over lubricated it. I believe cleaning out the firing pin channel may have done the trick. I've never went 160 rounds without a light strike before.
I am going to replace the recoil spring assembly anyway due to the warped end. I'm going to stop cleaning it after every trip. And I will continue to put rounds through it and see if the issue re-occurs. If it goes the rest of this 1000rnd case without another light strike then we know it was just new glock owner mistakes. Thank you everyone for your help!
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It’s not really the glocks fault for these failures. I’ve owned 5 in 7 years and the only issue I’ve encountered was 12 o clock brass ejection rearward to the face. It worked itself out after some rounds down range. Post pics of barrel lug. Your RSA needs to be able
To rotate. Hence it being round in a round pocket on both ends. Yours is damaged. Clearly. How this happened is anyone’s guess seeing how your claiming the SilencerCo barrel is faulty and has two flat shelves I’d say it’s clear to me why this happened. The only light primer strikes I’ve encountered were on an M&P9 I use to which I drenched in frog lube and it seeped into the striker channel creating friction. Again, user error. I’m shocked to hear SilencerCo or even IRG didn’t catch this QC faulty barrel. Please post pic of these two flat shelves.
To rotate. Hence it being round in a round pocket on both ends. Yours is damaged. Clearly. How this happened is anyone’s guess seeing how your claiming the SilencerCo barrel is faulty and has two flat shelves I’d say it’s clear to me why this happened. The only light primer strikes I’ve encountered were on an M&P9 I use to which I drenched in frog lube and it seeped into the striker channel creating friction. Again, user error. I’m shocked to hear SilencerCo or even IRG didn’t catch this QC faulty barrel. Please post pic of these two flat shelves.
But if I disassemble it again I'm gonna want to clean it lol
I will post a pic of the SilencerCo this evening.
wayupnorth
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Northern Alberta
i wanted to see how long i could run my G17 without cleaning it.
i gave up after like 5 years or so, damn thing never had a malfunction.
and i mean i didn't oil it or anything!
if you like to clean your guns a lot, and I do as well.
i changed my cleaning to give all my new guns a coating of G96 which coats and penetrates the metal.
then when i 'clean' my guns its just a quick whipe with a lint free rag and no oil.
i havnt had a malfunction in years.
and i run mine in -40 all the way to +40.
im sure your oil of choice would do the same, just whipe it down and don't re-oil unless it absolutely needs it.
i gave up after like 5 years or so, damn thing never had a malfunction.
and i mean i didn't oil it or anything!
if you like to clean your guns a lot, and I do as well.
i changed my cleaning to give all my new guns a coating of G96 which coats and penetrates the metal.
then when i 'clean' my guns its just a quick whipe with a lint free rag and no oil.
i havnt had a malfunction in years.
and i run mine in -40 all the way to +40.
im sure your oil of choice would do the same, just whipe it down and don't re-oil unless it absolutely needs it.
Its funny you mention G96 because I think that was part of the problem. I bought a can of "G96 SOLVENT" from the LGS. To me, a solvent is something that you clean with, it removes build up and then basically evaporates leaving behind no residue. Then you apply oil. Apparently that's not the case with this G96 "solvent". It most definitely leaves behind an oily film. I have been wiping down the whole gun with G96 and then putting Hoppes #9 on the points in this chart. I'm fairly certain the G96 "solvent" combined with the Hoppes oil built up in the striker channel caused the light primer strikes. And the wave in the recoil spring assembly is from me installing the spring on the wrong shelf and dry firing the gun since the SilencerCo doesn't have the pronounced round shelf that the factory barrel does.
It came in a cleaning kit I bought like 14 years ago from Brownells. It had a Hoppes #9 "cleaner" and a Hoppes #9 "oil". I ran out of the cleaner so I bought a can of G96 "solvent" recently which seems to be both a cleaner and lubricant.
#1 is both solvent and oil as mentioned. I use it for a lot but u must be aware. The oil is suspended in the solvent(might have that backwards) and as the solvent evaporates, it leaves the oil on the surface(thin coat). So u may have over lubed but lesson learned. The G96 is great stuff and chicks luv the smell 
Cheers
dB
Cheers
dB
wayupnorth
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Northern Alberta
Which one are you using:
OR
The first is primarily a lubricant, the second a solvent.
you can tell when you use #1 - everything smells nice.
when you use can #2 your eye's bleed and you can smell a mouse fart from 200m, stuff is POTENT!
I just want to update this thread in case someone stumbles on it in a search...
My Gen 4 G19 has been fixed.
The gun sat around unfired after I bought it and so is out of warranty. It is also an IRG import so I did not want to pay them to return it to the US for service and then pay Glock USA for service. I also wasn't keen on paying to ship it to a Glock armourer here in Canada.
First, I ordered a new RSA from Nordic Marksman and tried replacing that, I still had 5-6 failure to return to battery out of every 120 rounds.
Second, I did hours and hours of research on Glocks failing to return to battery. I stumbled on some discussion of an issue that was plaguing the Gen 3 G30SF when they came out. People were encountering the exact same FTRB symptoms that I was... The cause, although never acknowledged by Glock, seemed to be that the rear rails are too low in the frame and trigger bar drags against the slide and cause the gun to fail to go into battery by less than 1/8". That was the exact problem I had. I also found some serious wear marks on the slide around the trigger bar area and small scratches on the trigger bar that matched the pictures I was seeing of faulty G30SFs.
Figuring worst case scenario is I'll end up having to buy a drop in trigger, and being really tired of picking up unfired rounds from the range floor, I took a file to the top of the trigger bar removing a very tiny amount of metal. I took it to the range and I got 2 FTRB in 180 rounds. I knew I was on the right track, it felt a lot better. There was noticeably less resistance when cycling the slide by hand with the trigger pulled. I came home, polished the top of the trigger bar once again but also noticed scratches on the firing pin safety. I polished the top of the tit that protrudes from the trigger bar and took it back to the range. ZERO FTRB in my last three range sessions.
I notice now that I cannot see the length of the trigger bar protruding above the frame on most pictures I see online. On my gun, you could clearly see metal peeking out from above the frame. The slide would occasionally drag enough on the trigger bar to not return fully to battery.
I've learned my lesson, don't buy gray market guns without Canadian warranties and also even the big boys like Glock can let an out of spec gun through once in a while. It's not a problem limited to Norinco and NEA/BCL...
My Gen 4 G19 has been fixed.
The gun sat around unfired after I bought it and so is out of warranty. It is also an IRG import so I did not want to pay them to return it to the US for service and then pay Glock USA for service. I also wasn't keen on paying to ship it to a Glock armourer here in Canada.
First, I ordered a new RSA from Nordic Marksman and tried replacing that, I still had 5-6 failure to return to battery out of every 120 rounds.
Second, I did hours and hours of research on Glocks failing to return to battery. I stumbled on some discussion of an issue that was plaguing the Gen 3 G30SF when they came out. People were encountering the exact same FTRB symptoms that I was... The cause, although never acknowledged by Glock, seemed to be that the rear rails are too low in the frame and trigger bar drags against the slide and cause the gun to fail to go into battery by less than 1/8". That was the exact problem I had. I also found some serious wear marks on the slide around the trigger bar area and small scratches on the trigger bar that matched the pictures I was seeing of faulty G30SFs.
Figuring worst case scenario is I'll end up having to buy a drop in trigger, and being really tired of picking up unfired rounds from the range floor, I took a file to the top of the trigger bar removing a very tiny amount of metal. I took it to the range and I got 2 FTRB in 180 rounds. I knew I was on the right track, it felt a lot better. There was noticeably less resistance when cycling the slide by hand with the trigger pulled. I came home, polished the top of the trigger bar once again but also noticed scratches on the firing pin safety. I polished the top of the tit that protrudes from the trigger bar and took it back to the range. ZERO FTRB in my last three range sessions.
I notice now that I cannot see the length of the trigger bar protruding above the frame on most pictures I see online. On my gun, you could clearly see metal peeking out from above the frame. The slide would occasionally drag enough on the trigger bar to not return fully to battery.
I've learned my lesson, don't buy gray market guns without Canadian warranties and also even the big boys like Glock can let an out of spec gun through once in a while. It's not a problem limited to Norinco and NEA/BCL...
Some people were saying they fixed their G30SFs with the same problem by replacing the trigger bar. Having already wasted my money on an RSA that didn’t fix the problem I thought I would start by filing the old trigger bar. I got lucky.
What’s the bump even for? Just to keep the trigger bar pushed away from the slide/frame? I had to file the top of that thing, the part that depresses the firing pin safety, but not the bump itself.
