lubing your new AR

1ABNDT said:
I do not use motor oil different molecular structure and adhesion properties, but if you must keep a few things in mind.

For "non-synthetic" motor oil, the traditional approach is to try to hold oil temperatures between 230 and 260 degrees F. "Which can be exceeded easily", for "full synthetic" motor oil, maximum can exceed 300 degrees.
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People been using motor oil for years. Used to be a mod here, KevinB. He worked for KAC. All he used was motor oil and used to go thru 1000s of rounds. KAC AR with 5000rd, no stoppages, only on engine oil. He sold me switching. You pay 9$ for a L, or 10$ for like a 100ml bottle of "gun lube" I clean alot of parts with ATF. Again. People clean guns with diesels and lube it with oil from the engine dip sticks.
 
Kosmonument said:
I run mine dry and it's fine. I haven't had an issue since I got it a year ago.
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Do you run your vehicles engine dry as well?

In addition to several other reasons why you should never run a firearm dry, metal on metal wear will be greatly increased without lubrication.

Unless you like, sloppy, inaccurate firearms with little resale value and diminished part life, I would suggest you revisit your firearms maintenance practices.
 
I drench my new AR with Froglube then i proceed to the range, ususally 4-500 rounds on the outing, while shooting, the Froglube ooze out from everywere, after i am done shooting, i wipe out everything dry, the AR is now seasoned and this is good for many range sessions, i ususally redoo the lubing every 3 years. whatever the rounds count is, you see the protection is there since there are still light oozing.

Over the years, i had 12 AR and maybe shot over 10K rounds tru them. I dont recall a single stoppage ever.

Froglube is an insurance.

PS: I never shoot in the cold times.
 
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One year while shooting at the National Service Conditions Championships with DCRA and CFSAC Canadian Forces Small Arms Championships, I was squadded with US Spl Forces Trooper. We got yakking about Weapon lubrications and maintenance. He invited me over to their team trailer after dinner at the mess hall in Connaught Ranges....

At the Team Trailer they opened up a peanut butter jar half full of 10W30. Their procedure for lubing the bolt carrier was a dip , then a shake , then insert into the upper receiver.

These shooters were no slouches on the firing line.

Thanks for the schooling!! :wave:

Then another shooting team crew explained to me they drop a single drop of issued CLP into each hole of the bolt carrier and finally the rails above and below. Drop into the upper receiver.

So there you go; two different military team perspectives. You select what works for you

Many common issues at my CQB clinics stem from dry rigs. Don’t you become THAT shooter!!

Cheers, Barney
 
I recently got my first AR so I did a lot of googling to see how to properly lube it, I use slip2000 ewl and grease in my other guns so I use it in my AR. For me anyways using any type of engine oil would be the last thing i would do i'm sure it lubes fine but having a gun stinking of burnt motor oil would suck big time.

I have used frog lube in the past it was ok but it seems a lot of people don't actually read the instructions or have no idea how to actually use it LOL Your supposed to apply it let it soak into the pores of the metal then you wipe off all the excess and run your gun with just the residue it left behind on the metal, Your not supposed to leave the frog lube on like an oil. Its when its penetrated into the metal pores that its slick as a frogs ass. Leaving it on in any amount it will just goop up and and you will have issues especially when its below zero.
 
I've been experimenting with different greases and oils. Butches gun oil, lucas clp, silicone spray, g96, kroil, white lithium grease and lucas red and tacky grease.

The silicone spray lights on fire and stinks, never agian.

Butches smells good doesnt light on fire and offers good lubrication. I thinks its thin ATF.

Lucas clp it works it clean but as a multi purpose it's not the best at anything but works for everything.

G96 works good. Good lubrication smells good but sprays everywhere when shooting.

Kroll. About the same as g96

White lithium grease. Well holy is it slippery. I've never seen a gun so smooth and slippery. It doesnt gum up or get sticky it just runs. Doesnt last to long but it sure works great.

Lucas red and tacky. A bit more involved to apply it it stays where you put it has a high load bearing a high drop point. Doesnt spray or drip or ooze. Sparingly applied to everything. It's not super slippery like white lithium but it sticks way better and lasts way way longer. Probably my favorite lubricant so far
 
DT741 said:
What are your typical shooting session round count wise ?

ARs run optimally lubed. Not wet but thin coating of lube
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I have put about 600 rounds through it since I got it over four sessions.

When I said dry what I meant was I clean my stuff with CLP and wipe it off so that the only thing there is is a light glisten of the stuff. I haven't cleaned my AR in 600 rounds tho. I get all of my cleaning advice from a guy called gunblue on YouTube, who is a Ruger armourer and a lot more.
 
Break free CLP is all I use, and I use pretty minimal amounts. Once a year or so I'll swipe some on the bcg to get a shine, and lube up any contact points or spots that need some. Outside of that, I don't really do much unless it starts acting up. I think all the craziness about lubrication intervals and products is more hype than anything
 
Step 1
Take AR apart to field strip level

Step 2
Dunk in oil

Step 3
Let sit for a while to absorb

Step 4
Wipe off excess oil

Step 5
Reassemble

Step 6
Go to the range

Pretty much do that with the metal on all my stuff. Just make sure its wiped before dumping back in a wood stock. I clean my guns when they look grungy in the action or a cycling issue occurs. Or of course if shooting corrosive. If i only fire off a a few dozen or a hundred rounds i generally just leave the firearm as is, especislly bolt actions. If a rifle is coming hunting absolutely nothing is cleaned or changed after the last zero at the range. If the rifle gets damp or wet i lean it up nesr the stove at camp to dry out. Then when the rifle/shotgun gets home it is destocked and cleaned well to prevent rust.....never had an issue.
 
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Kosmonument said:
I have put about 600 rounds through it since I got it over four sessions.

When I said dry what I meant was I clean my stuff with CLP and wipe it off so that the only thing there is is a light glisten of the stuff. I haven't cleaned my AR in 600 rounds tho. I get all of my cleaning advice from a guy called gunblue on YouTube, who is a Ruger armourer and a lot more.
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This is how I do it as well:

-clean with CLP
-wipe all the dirt away
-apply CLP
-wipe off the excess

Its useless to run an AR dripping wet with *insert people's favorite snake oil*

CLP as well for me, runs flawlessly and I'm a 1000 round from last "cleaning"
 
DT741 said:
This is how I do it as well:

-clean with CLP
-wipe all the dirt away
-apply CLP
-wipe off the excess

Its useless to run an AR dripping wet with *insert people's favorite snake oil*

CLP as well for me, runs flawlessly and I'm a 1000 round from last "cleaning"
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This^

I "clean" my AR when it starts giving me issues. Unless you count adding some oil to the BGC as "cleaning", i'm probably close to 2k rounds since the last time.

TrxR said:
Anyone try just synthetic motor oil?
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Yep! It works pretty well, but I find that it leaves more residue behind than my CLP does
 
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