Remington 783 Heavy Barrel

Hi All, sorry to revive an old thread, just picked up a 783 in 308 20" barrel, looking at improving it on a budget, and noticed some talk about bedding or reinforcing the lug? any help would be greatly appreciated. I've tried to look up how to's but there aren't many for this rifle. Does anyone know of a complete write up with instructions?
TIA!
 
Bedding is standard to all rifles. I like to support the entire lug and a bit under the barrel nut

Free float the barrel with LOTS of space around it... you may need to open the barrel channel in the stock. If you can grab the barrel and stock and squeeze together with moderate pressure, increase the gap. Yes, it will be honking big when you are done.

But it will work... enjoy the rifle. If I can help with other goodies, please let me know

Jerry
 
Need some advice here.. I have a Rem 783 24" HB in 308 that has very looong freebore. I can't seat any bullet anywhere close to rifling, so I have to stick to 2.8 OAL as per the manual. It is currently seating in an MDT chassis with a SWFA scope on it. The problem is that I can't make it shoot straight. I tried Federal GMM in 168 and 175, some reloads with Hornady 178gr ELD-M over IMR 4064 without any success - it shoots about 1.5-2" inches at 100m. Once this COVID thing is over, I still want to go through a box of 168gr Matchkings and see if I can find a decent load.. But if it doesn't work, what's the best next step? Keep trying and working on the load or just rebarrel? Heck, I can even reload for my Russian Mosin touching the rifling, but not for this Remington..
 
New barrel... or run 210gr bullets

Jerry

Thanks, Jerry. If it is a new barrel, can I make it shorter, let's say, 20 inches, and still shoot up to 1000 yards (I'm pretty new to this game, so I'm sorry for a noob question)? And what would be a ballpark estimate for something on a budget end (work included)?
 
With a match prefit, you can spec the barrel however you want... just put together a shorty for a customer with a 12.5" barrel..... and I run F class rifles with 30" barrels.

Reaching out is not an issue... I cannot discuss pricing on the open forum so please send me an email info@mysticprecision.com

With some basic tools, you can swap the barrels yourself... allowing you to put on whatever you want through the seasons.

Jerry
 
Thanks, Jerry. If it is a new barrel, can I make it shorter, let's say, 20 inches, and still shoot up to 1000 yards (I'm pretty new to this game, so I'm sorry for a noob question)? And what would be a ballpark estimate for something on a budget end (work included)?

When determining the length of barrel you want, you need to take into account what you prioritize most. A shorter barrel is more "handy", I guess and a bit lighter but gives up performance at distance to a long barrel since the shorter barrel will give up speed to the longer barrel (given the same given ammo/load/pressure). The faster the bullet travels, the less it is affected by the wind. Use your ballistic calculator (if you have one) or go on JBM and punch in the data points for whatever your load is in your 24" barrel and then do it again but knock 200fps of the muzzle velocity and compare the windage at 1000 yards. There's a reason Jerry runs a 30" barrel for F-Class (where you don't have to move with the rifle) and most guys in PRS/NRL type matches (where you move a bunch) run 26" barrels. Can you get out to 1000 yards with a 20" barrel? Sure, the bullet will always make the trip, it's just less optimal than a longer barrel. At one point, I had a 20" .30 and I made hits (in matches) as far out as 1150 yards but my wind call had to be absolutely bang on. Food for thought.
 
With a match prefit, you can spec the barrel however you want... just put together a shorty for a customer with a 12.5" barrel..... and I run F class rifles with 30" barrels.

Reaching out is not an issue... I cannot discuss pricing on the open forum so please send me an email info@mysticprecision.com

With some basic tools, you can swap the barrels yourself... allowing you to put on whatever you want through the seasons.

Jerry

Thanks, Jerry, email sent.
 
When determining the length of barrel you want, you need to take into account what you prioritize most. A shorter barrel is more "handy", I guess and a bit lighter but gives up performance at distance to a long barrel since the shorter barrel will give up speed to the longer barrel (given the same given ammo/load/pressure). The faster the bullet travels, the less it is affected by the wind. Use your ballistic calculator (if you have one) or go on JBM and punch in the data points for whatever your load is in your 24" barrel and then do it again but knock 200fps of the muzzle velocity and compare the windage at 1000 yards. There's a reason Jerry runs a 30" barrel for F-Class (where you don't have to move with the rifle) and most guys in PRS/NRL type matches (where you move a bunch) run 26" barrels. Can you get out to 1000 yards with a 20" barrel? Sure, the bullet will always make the trip, it's just less optimal than a longer barrel. At one point, I had a 20" .30 and I made hits (in matches) as far out as 1150 yards but my wind call had to be absolutely bang on. Food for thought.
Thanks, that makes sense. I have a 24" Savage 110 Tactical in 6.5 CM that I can shoot 1/2-3/4 MOA no problem in it's factory configuration, so I'm looking to build a more compact rifle in 308.. I was thinking getting a 16.5" barreled Rem 783 but got a really good deal on 24" one. I want to do PRS eventually so reaching out to 1000 yds should be plenty for this purpose.
 
Kinda liking one of these 16.5" for a bush Moose and Elk gun. Bed it, and reinforce the front of the stock and shoot it. Not real crazy about the plastic sling swivels though.

They are durable. No worries there.

You guys can always go crazy like me and do a 12.5" build to blow out yours and everyone within 100fts eardrums :)

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