Cooey 12g 840 model help

I would give $ 25. Too much work to do ( clean & coldblue) & then you still have a "Rust Pitted " gun , worth
maybe $100.
 
riversrest said:
^ If you want to get rid off the corrosion and blueing for that matter, start out with simple high concentrated white vinegar.

Soak a cotton cloth/paper towel and wrap the metal parts you want deblued/derusted for a while, then wipe. Repeat as needed, afterwards, "neutralize" the chemical reaction on the metal surfaces with plenty of water...
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I’ll add something to the neutralize process, warm water with baking soda and not just water. Baking soda is alkali and will cancel the acidic of the vinegar, I’ve derusted a few 70’s motorcycle tanks and axe heads with vinegar and it works well. The motorcycle tanks will flash rust as you watch if you done get them rinsed out with the baking soda rinse.
 
Sure it does, quick google search will give you lots of examples. Not to mention I’ve done it multiple times.

“When used together, baking soda and vinegar will neutralize each other, effectively canceling out the benefits of low pH for vinegar and high pH for baking soda.”
 
Butcherbill said:
Sorry but it does, quick google search will give you lots of examples. Not to mention I’ve done it multiple times.

“When used together, baking soda and vinegar will neutralize each other, effectively canceling out the benefits of low pH for vinegar and high pH for baking soda.”
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Thats an advise when cleanig out a toilet. Read further, it will say "flush" at given times.
 
Believe what you want, I know what it does. I’ve used it many times to neutralize the acid and stop flash rusting, can guarantee that soaking a barrel or any other carbon steel in vinegar and not neutralizing it with baking soda/water solution will promote flash rusting.

And no that wasn’t from a how to clean a toilet how to, it was off Tide’s website. Easy to find info on the two products neutralizing each other.
 
Anyone able to give insight on those markings in the barrel lol ?? It’s been on my mind ever since I saw em now
 
cooey43 said:
I would give $ 25. Too much work to do ( clean & coldblue) & then you still have a "Rust Pitted " gun , worth
maybe $100.
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I like guns lol and figured it would be a good practise project before attempting my old Winchester 69a. Use it as a nice wall piece or such
 
BrownR said:
What kind of rust remover chemicals can be used on the rifle ? Was thinking of letting it do all the work since it’s an awful lot to get rid of by hand with multiple repetitions lol. Does any rust remover work, or is a special kind needed for rifles ?

Like could I use this from CT ?? Metal Rescue Rust Remover Bath, 3.78-L#047-7920-8
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I may have this all mis-understood - when "new", iron or steel is an orderly matrix of iron molecules - I think "steel" has some additional carbon molecules in there, and likely odd trace contaminants in each - results in certain strength and wear properties. When red rust is produced - is oxygen atoms that have bound to the iron molecules - when forming "red" rust, the result is a molecule that is larger than the iron molecules - often it "pops out" or is "forced out" of the matrix - have that to a couple hundred thousand molecules and you have a "pit" - when removing that "red" rust, you will be removing iron molecules - the original piece is pitted and stays pitted. Oddly, you can add more oxygen - resulting in "black" rust - which is smaller molecules than red rust - actually close to the size of the original iron molecules - often we would call that black rust to be "bluing". There is a process described on Internet called "reverse electrolysis", I think - using an electric current to turn some red rust into black rust - some museums apparently do that to restore very old metal things - to be able to read scroll work that would otherwise be lost if the red rust was abraded away.

So, removing the red rust is not going to re-fill or re-store the "pits" that were created - I have read that some people will fussily weld into each pit to re-fill it, or use Bondo and then paint over that - not sure what that does for the strength of the thing - I doubt it is as strong as it was originally? - but I do not know that.
 
Potashminer said:
I may have this all mis-understood - when "new", iron or steel is an orderly matrix of iron molecules - I think "steel" has some additional carbon molecules in there, and likely odd trace contaminants in each - results in certain strength and wear properties. When red rust is produced - is oxygen atoms that have bound to the iron molecules - when forming "red" rust, the result is a molecule that is larger than the iron molecules - often it "pops out" or is "forced out" of the matrix - have that to a couple hundred thousand molecules and you have a "pit" - when removing that "red" rust, you will be removing iron molecules - the original piece is pitted and stays pitted. Oddly, you can add more oxygen - resulting in "black" rust - which is smaller molecules than red rust - actually close to the size of the original iron molecules - often we would call that black rust to be "bluing". There is a process described on Internet called "reverse electrolysis", I think - using an electric current to turn some red rust into black rust - some museums apparently do that to restore very old metal things - to be able to read scroll work that would otherwise be lost if the red rust was abraded away.

So, removing the red rust is not going to re-fill or re-store the "pits" that were created - I have read that some people will fussily weld into each pit to re-fill it, or use Bondo and then paint over that - not sure what that does for the strength of the thing - I doubt it is as strong as it was originally? - but I do not know that.
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I just wanna strip the metal and wood to restain it and reblue with a cold blue kit. I’m not tooooo worried about pits at the moment, I’ll worry about that when the time comes lol one step at a time
 
Well I picked up some evaporust yesterday and was thinking since this removes the red rust and gun bluing and finish etc, will it hurt or tarnish the inside of a barrel ?? ��
 
So I’m thinking some corks on each end of the barrel to plug it up so it can sit 12-24hrs submerged in the rust solution
 
Does anyone know whether I should let the evaporust get inside the barrel ? Or should I just close it off with some corks before submerging it ?? I want to strip everything off it before rebluing it. If I had something to lay the 30” barrel in I would try to hot blue it, instead of cold bluing like I’d end up doing
 
Theres a thread on CGN on how you get everything off a gun using a dishwasher. It will answer most of your questions...
 
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