Live round stuck in breech...

I Dont Care About You said:
You should definitely try that and see how it goes. :rolleyes:

I find it best to NOT give out advice you don't understand. 🤷‍♂️

FWIW grease doesn't work because it is basically impossible to totally fill the bore with thick grease without leaving air bubbles and pockets that will compress under pressure. It has to be oil.



The description of this method as "messy" is a wild understatement. When the metal rod is whacked, oil will spurt out of the muzzle at high velocity. The thing about the mechanics of this method is your head and face will naturally be right above the muzzle when you hit the rod. Give that idea a minute to sink in ............. 🤷‍♂️

Oh and let's not forget, that jamming a close fitting steel rod into the rifling and then whacking it with a hammer is probably not going to do the rifling any good.
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I don't use steel rods. I make little brass pistons which are turned very close to bore diameter. The head of the piston is left full diameter. The piston end is only a couple of inches long. The bore is not full of oil to the muzzle. The piston is inserted into the bore reaching the oil. The piston stroke might be only half an inch. The mess is at the breech end - when the cartridge is expelled, the oil in the bore will drain. That is why removing the barreled action from the stock is a good idea.
 
Ungrateful said:
That’s how you get a pilot bearing out of a flywheel (pilot bore in the back of a crankshaft). Fill the whole cavity with grease. Get a wooden dowel that fits, wrap it with electrical tape until it fits perfectly then pound it in with a hammer and the bushing should come me right out
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I posted a video in post #50 to show how it's done. Some didn't comprehend the purpose of using grease. But once you see how it works it should be easy to understand. Whether it's a pilot bearing or a jammed rifle round...the principle is the same
 
coyoteshooter said:
remove bolt and scope......put dry ice on the chamber .
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Who has dry ice lying around? :rolleyes:


theshootist said:
If I use the steel rod method, that would put the smokeless powder under a lot of pressure. What I'd like to know is will smokeless powder detonate under a crushing pressure?
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No.


Ungrateful said:
I would take it into my back yard, point it at the ground, close the bolt and pull the trigger. Then turn the bolt to c0ck it again and pull the trigger again. What is unsafe about that?
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OP said the bolt won't close. Hammering the bolt closed on a rifle is a bad idea.


Coyote Ugly said:
Pour oil onto the primer to deactivate the primer if there is room to do so in the breech.
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That doesn't work. soaking a primer in oil does not deactivate the priming compound. I found a primed case in my pocket after it had gone through the laundry machine and it fired just fine. DO NOT rely on oil to deactivate a primer.


Denver Steve said:
Well there you are assuming that the bolt has been left open, or removed...lol
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You would try to mechanically remove a stuck case with the bolt inserted and closed? You must be a special kind of person. :oops:
 
theshootist said:
I'm away off shore at the moment, I won't be home for awhile to mess with this disaster.

I've done a bit of searching on YouTube myself and read in the comments about putting the barrel in the deep freeze over night, then briefly warming up the barrel before attempting to force out the mess I've created.

After putting some Kroil down the barrel I've already foolishly tried dropping a good fiberglass cleaning rod onto the loaded round to see if it would budge but no luck. I think I might have already used enough force to push the bullet back into the case. Very unsettling.
I was thinking of pouring some water down in there to hopefully foul the powder/primer (if the bullet went in that far) then use Guntech's advice with the steel rod.

From memory the cartridge is a full length sized, 308 Win with 44gr Varget under a 168gr Hornaday A-max bullet.

Before I do anything, and when I finally get back to civilization I'll call Ron Hendrickson. I've used his services before for other gunsmithing. If he can offer a quick turnaround I'll likely go see him first.

Strange how it happened. I shot a nice 3 round group, then I couldn't chamber a 4th.
I removed that round, and chambered it into another gun. I repeated this with 3 or 4 additional rounds, all successfully chambered in the second rifle. I could not see anything obstructing the problem rifle with bolt removed.

I got impatient and chambered a round in hard, which is where I (and that round) got stuck. Typical for myself to learn the hard way, of course right before hunting season.

If I use the steel rod method, that would put the smokeless powder under a lot of pressure. What I'd like to know is will smokeless powder detonate under a crushing pressure?

Hopefully others will learn from my silly mistakes.
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I had some rounds stick on me in a Rem 700 in 222, the Hornady dies were very particular and would not properly bump back the shoulder. If you chambered nicely the bolt would sit just shy of full battery but you could slam it down and get close. The dies needed to be adjusted and now I chamber every single sized brass when using those dies before loading. I also picked up a set of Lee dies, no issues sizing with them.
 
guntech said:
The powder will not ignite while the case is being driven out.
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the powder won't but you might drive enough powder down through the flash hole and force the primer anvil to crush the priming compound. if the case is stuck hard in the chamber for whatever reason the case will hold together long enough to send the bullet and anything else in the barrel out with enough force to cause serious injury. the case head will also blow out and send particles of brass and the primer cup back out through the action. not a good day if it goes sideways, it depends on what kind of powder is in the case and how the stars align. it happened in the US to a benchrest competitor's wife who was trying to drive out a round that was stuck in the chamber.
 
barsik said:
the powder won't but you might drive enough powder down through the flash hole and force the primer anvil to crush the priming compound. if the case is stuck hard in the chamber for whatever reason the case will hold together long enough to send the bullet and anything else in the barrel out with enough force to cause serious injury. the case head will also blow out and send particles of brass and the primer cup back out through the action. not a good day if it goes sideways, it depends on what kind of powder is in the case and how the stars align. it happened in the US to a benchrest competitor's wife who was trying to drive out a round that was stuck in the chamber.
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I do not believe it is possible to drive powder through the flash hole and cause a primer to fire... but if it did the bullet would not go down the barrel, the case would exit the chamber and action.
I have driven out probably 5 stuck live rounds and removed probably 3 or 4 more by other means and several head separtions .

I would need more details to comment on the benchrest shooters story.
 
Go out into bush . Tie your rifle to a tree. Rig up a chunk of steel as a falling hammer about a foot or so above the muzzle on a string release . Gently place a steel rod down the bore. Hide behind a big tree and pull the string.
 
Some of these “solutions” make me wonder.

You guys are actually ok clicking the “post reply” button after writing your posts ?

Like just re read it after writing and think. “Did I write this. Or a 4 year old”
“Should I post this ?”
 
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