Cleaning cord jammed

I have no experience with devices of the Bore Snake genre, but pull throughs in general can be useful if used carefully and with the correct cleaning attachments. It is when the pull through is loaded with something that is not going to pass through the bore smoothly that trouble occurs. Or when the cord is worn, etc. For a flexible, pocket sized system, Otis is hard to beat. Uses coated steel cable, not a cord. Multi-section cleaning rods are useful, especially in a field kit or hunt camp, to poke out mud or other obstructions. An Otis can do this if the blockage is not too firmly in place. A pull through can be dragged across the edge of the bore - something to avoid.
Quality rods beat any flexible system hands down.
 
I like Pathfinder's "D'arcy Echols Wife's solution" - melting a rod into the snake and letting it cool in place. And the following 'result' of the previous attempts sends a warning. I like the comment ". . . I think some alcohol was involved but I can't confirm this. . . " - as a lubricant ? ;)
 
pretty harsh luck gunnie. I tried my 17 pull threw once. Also really tight for caliber.
maybe try heating up aircraft cable with a torch.. push the red hot end into the cloth jag till it loosens up , and pushs threw hopefully. Tuff scenario
 
^ Yes, putting a red-hot steel cable thru a bore will 'do the job' :rolleyes: And the 'cloth' in those is 'plastic-cloth' - melty.
 
Get a piece of dowel that just fits down the bore, and preferably a fairly long brass screw if you can. Drill the proper sized hole in the end of the dowel for size of acrew. Then screw the screw into the dowel, nice and snug. Dowel won't split if you predrilled it the right size, and didn't screw the screw in too far.

Use your preferred method of chopping of grinding of the head/unthreaded part of the screw. Then profile it back to a sharpened end, making it similar to the end you just screwed into the wooden dowel, don't grind or file away the threads. That's what is going to grab the bore snake.

Proceed to putting the dowel with the newly formed brass screw sticking out of it down the bore, screwing it into the fibers of the bore snake, then pull in the dowel and remove the broken bore snake. You can set up a makeshift slide hammer for easy extraction, if you use a long enough dowel, cross pin it on backside of the dowel and have a small weight or something handy laying around that will work, for the slide part of your makeshift slide hammer.

Very effective way of doing it without ruining your bore. It works best if you can pull it backwards, and not thread it in from the side that the rope broke off on. A metal screw can also be used in a pinch, but you are not "bore safe" then.
 
Dave_D said:
Your gunna kill someone
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gewehr76 said:
haha only ones pride. If barrel can handle pressure of proper projectile you think its not going to handle some crappy copper jag lol
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No, it does not work that way. There is a HUGE difference in pressure spike when comparing the projectile starting out close to the powder charge to the projectile starting out some distance away. This phenomenon is more substantial with black powder than smokeless (black being an explosive where smokeless is a propellant) but still applies to smokeless.
 
Licensed to kill said:
No, it does not work that way. There is a HUGE difference in pressure spike when comparing the projectile starting out close to the powder charge to the projectile starting out some distance away. This phenomenon is more substantial with black powder than smokeless (black being an explosive where smokeless is a propellant) but still applies to smokeless.
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Barrel is a pipe. It will handle pressure of the bigger chamber that will be created between case full of powder and the place where that obstruction is at. versus the proper cartridge fired there is no huge difference in fact its even less
 
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