Which would you pick for a higher-end bolt rifle?

I don’t recall if you mentioned wood / blue or stainless/ synthetic but if I had to pick again on a wood & blue it would be another Steyr Model L in .308
6 rear locking lugs , double set trigger , hammer forged barrel . Hitting the 4” gong at 300m was nearly boring
 
No one said anything about rifles and your life depending on it. I was referring to your stupid watch analogy. And it is stupid.

I do not buy rifles to impress anyone. 99.9% of anyone who picks up any rifle of mine couldn’t tell you what it was or how much it costs. In fact, they garner zero interest. If I was looking to impress someone I’d use some heavy barreled braked chassis laden monstrosity. All topped off with some Hubble type Chinese made scope.

That would raise eyebrows and draw a crowd. Not the Mauser style rifles I prefer. Those impress no one. But they sure make you mad. I don’t post a picture of any rifle on here without your ego jumping in with both feet.

Take your nonsense elsewhere.

What kind of person offers his opinion on everyone else’s rifles but refuses to give any indication of what he uses? Who does that? You apparently.
Sure bub. Nice tantrun!

R.
 
Certainly no hunters are ever impressed by CRF style rifles, and custom ones at that lol right? Not like they are a traditional lot that appreciates historically solid designs, cartridges, etc ;)

Not saying thats why anyone did anything. Just sayin lol.


The problem with bolt action rifles is that mostly 100% of the stock weight is below the bore line. To balance over the bore line a rifle one needs similar weight with the scope to compensate. It makes for nicer shooting. If one wants to save weight it is better to reduce stock weight and barrel weight. Lighter stock allows for lighter scope if one wants to stay balanced. We will bed our second 7PRC this week, we will have two identical actions and barrels. One in a lighter stock with lighter scope the other slightly heavier stock and scope but both balanced.
Yes overall recoil is a point but it is also important how a rifle recoils. Stock shape and balance help.
edi

What stock styles/weights are you drawn to, Edi?

They seem to keep getting lighter and look to be built more for rested/prone shooting, which I guess follows a more "mountain" focused trend in hunting right now? Are there generally good "works for everyone" or "Across the board" styles/weights you'd reccomend, despite one size often fitting none? haha
 
The thumbhole look would be somewhat of a departure for me, but I know how comfortably they hold.
They have 2 versions. One with thumb hole one with out. I’ve shot the S20 in 30-06 and it’s a very accurate, smooth and a pleasure to shoot. I have 2 custom rifles and would like to get an S20 for the safe.
 
What stock styles/weights are you drawn to, Edi?

They seem to keep getting lighter and look to be built more for rested/prone shooting, which I guess follows a more "mountain" focused trend in hunting right now? Are there generally good "works for everyone" or "Across the board" styles/weights you'd reccomend, despite one size often fitting none? haha
The stocks/rifles I use are designed to be useful in our type of shooting or terrain. This covers short range driven hunt, dense cover hunting, open areas with gorse bushes where one almost walks onto the deer but in the same morning one can also come to open terrain where a 600m shot could be possible or across a valley in high grass where only a small part of an animal can be made out. The wet Terrain make stalking especially at my age a bit more difficult therefore prefer a lighter rifle. Good thing is one often finds something to rest a rifle or bipod on for longer shots. Under 100m it is often just off hand. Practice out to 1200m. So a rifle that can do almost all. For heavy rain conditions I have a stainless marlin 30-30.

edi
 
The stocks/rifles I use are designed to be useful in our type of shooting or terrain. This covers short range driven hunt, dense cover hunting, open areas with gorse bushes where one almost walks onto the deer but in the same morning one can also come to open terrain where a 600m shot could be possible or across a valley in high grass where only a small part of an animal can be made out. The wet Terrain make stalking especially at my age a bit more difficult therefore prefer a lighter rifle. Good thing is one often finds something to rest a rifle or bipod on for longer shots. Under 100m it is often just off hand. Practice out to 1200m. So a rifle that can do almost all. For heavy rain conditions I have a stainless marlin 30-30.

edi


That sounds like a really good and versatile set of priorities! What would you have in mind for say a Tikka in 308 or 7mm-08 for example?
 
That sounds like a really good and versatile set of priorities! What would you have in mind for say a Tikka in 308 or 7mm-08 for example?
Never had a 7-08 T3 but several in 308. My take is that T3 plastic stock has a fantastic bedding that is precise and tight. Only disadvantages are the not so stiff plastic, the mid area barrel pressure bedding block and that generally the gap between barrel and stock is too tight. Mostly they shoot well, even better once pressure bed is removed and barrel channel made larger which avoids touching if one puts some pressure on the forend. The UPR stocks are made of two halves glues together, they are sometimes not aligned well and the recoil lug then sits skew. Action screw holes are drill too small and especially the rear screw can split the stock. We did tests between 308 stainless CTR in a carbon custom stock and 308 blued Lite using Sako 168 Match ammo both without suppressor. Test was done at 200yds to make target measuring easier. T3 Lite averaged at 0.35 MOA and the CTR at 0.23 MOA. Both rifles balanced over bore as in COG on the bore line averaged 0.29 MOA, both rifles not balanced averaged 0.67 MOA. Balance more than doubled accuracy. We had a very good shooter doing the tests.
As all rifles Tikka benefits from a good stiff/hard bedding with pillars. Position of the recoil lug vs action is important. I have bedded hundreds of Tikka T3 since almost 20 years and learned from mistakes.
The 308 Lite from the test we sold to a friend after fitting her to a carbon stock. In three years he shot around 400 deer with this rifle out to over 500m. His barrel is now pitted due to corrosion in our wet climate and was recently re-barrelled.
Nothing wrong with a T3.
edi
 
I traded my Blaser R8 7mm Remington Magnum for this Cooper Custom Classic Model 56, chambered in the 300 H&H with engraving, open sights and New Zealand walnut, unfired.

To me this is a high-end rifle, worth about $10,000. I have another 300 H&H, a Kipplauf, made in Furlach, Austria, worth well over $10,000......................and I have many others.
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Never had a 7-08 T3 but several in 308. My take is that T3 plastic stock has a fantastic bedding that is precise and tight. Only disadvantages are the not so stiff plastic, the mid area barrel pressure bedding block and that generally the gap between barrel and stock is too tight. Mostly they shoot well, even better once pressure bed is removed and barrel channel made larger which avoids touching if one puts some pressure on the forend. The UPR stocks are made of two halves glues together, they are sometimes not aligned well and the recoil lug then sits skew. Action screw holes are drill too small and especially the rear screw can split the stock. We did tests between 308 stainless CTR in a carbon custom stock and 308 blued Lite using Sako 168 Match ammo both without suppressor. Test was done at 200yds to make target measuring easier. T3 Lite averaged at 0.35 MOA and the CTR at 0.23 MOA. Both rifles balanced over bore as in COG on the bore line averaged 0.29 MOA, both rifles not balanced averaged 0.67 MOA. Balance more than doubled accuracy. We had a very good shooter doing the tests.
As all rifles Tikka benefits from a good stiff/hard bedding with pillars. Position of the recoil lug vs action is important. I have bedded hundreds of Tikka T3 since almost 20 years and learned from mistakes.
The 308 Lite from the test we sold to a friend after fitting her to a carbon stock. In three years he shot around 400 deer with this rifle out to over 500m. His barrel is now pitted due to corrosion in our wet climate and was recently re-barrelled.
Nothing wrong with a T3.
edi

Thanks Edi! I really appreciate the detailed answer. Never heard of center of gravity over bore before now, and the fact it cuts group size in half is pretty wild!

But now that you mention it I can see how if the center of gravity was not along the recoil axis, it would create some torque when the gun goes off rather than it wanting to go straight back every time. So in this case, a heavier, higher scope seems to pay some dividends alright!

If the barrel channel is sufficiently opened, think its worth bedding a T3x Lite stock as well?

Your friend sure put a lot of miles on that rifle over the three years before he rebarreled it!
 
Not high end, but practical and accurate with a couple personalized choices to make it “yours”. Start with a used stainless tikka t3, add a PRP bottom metal (with the writing filed off the triggerguard), get a stainless shroud and bolt stop, bed in a wildcat composite stock with metal and stock finished however you want.
 
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Not high end, but practical and accurate with a couple personalized choices to make it “yours”. Start with a used stainless tikka t3, add a PRP bottom metal (with the writing filed off the triggerguard), get a stainless shroud and bolt stop, bed in a wildcat composite stock with metal and stock finished however you want.
Why file off the writting?
 
Never had a 7-08 T3 but several in 308. My take is that T3 plastic stock has a fantastic bedding that is precise and tight. Only disadvantages are the not so stiff plastic, the mid area barrel pressure bedding block and that generally the gap between barrel and stock is too tight. Mostly they shoot well, even better once pressure bed is removed and barrel channel made larger which avoids touching if one puts some pressure on the forend. The UPR stocks are made of two halves glues together, they are sometimes not aligned well and the recoil lug then sits skew. Action screw holes are drill too small and especially the rear screw can split the stock. We did tests between 308 stainless CTR in a carbon custom stock and 308 blued Lite using Sako 168 Match ammo both without suppressor. Test was done at 200yds to make target measuring easier. T3 Lite averaged at 0.35 MOA and the CTR at 0.23 MOA. Both rifles balanced over bore as in COG on the bore line averaged 0.29 MOA, both rifles not balanced averaged 0.67 MOA. Balance more than doubled accuracy. We had a very good shooter doing the tests.
As all rifles Tikka benefits from a good stiff/hard bedding with pillars. Position of the recoil lug vs action is important. I have bedded hundreds of Tikka T3 since almost 20 years and learned from mistakes.
The 308 Lite from the test we sold to a friend after fitting her to a carbon stock. In three years he shot around 400 deer with this rifle out to over 500m. His barrel is now pitted due to corrosion in our wet climate and was recently re-barrelled.
Nothing wrong with a T3.
edi
I am a Tikka T3/T3X. Fan . And I agree with a lot of saying 👍
When you say. “ WE “ who does that include Please ? 😉
 
Not high end, but practical and accurate with a couple personalized choices to make it “yours”. Start with a used stainless tikka t3, add a PRP bottom metal (with the writing filed off the triggerguard), get a stainless shroud and bolt stop, bed in a wildcat composite stock with metal and stock finished however you want.
I have PRP bottom Alum metallic on my Tikkas but didn’t FILE off the Logo
Is there a shooting advantage ? Or is it because it cost money and he’s not getting any FREE advertising ?
Do you file off the Tikka name on the barrel too ? 🤪 just Wondering 🤔 😀
 
I am a Tikka T3/T3X. Fan . And I agree with a lot of saying 👍
When you say. “ WE “ who does that include Please ? 😉
My son and I have a very small company in composites/stocks manufacturing in Irland. Also have a few good friends around who help test things, they have more time to hunt or target shoot than we have. I hunt as much as I can since being a kid.
edi
 
I want a new Browning Bar Safari in 270. Mine is showing it's age. $700 way back when and now $2000+. The old girl might have to keep on chugging. Any high end Browning in 270wm would suit me.
 
I've never had a SAKO or a CZ that didn't shoot very straight. On the other hand, I've never had a winchester or ruger that did shoot straight. I'm not overly fond of Weatherby but the one I did shoot surprised me by how accurate it was.
 
My son and I have a very small company in composites/stocks manufacturing in Irland. Also have a few good friends around who help test things, they have more time to hunt or target shoot than we have. I hunt as much as I can since being a kid.
edi
Run across any m65a tikka never seen any listed in Canada or the USA for sale?
 
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