1954 Russian SKS -- laminate stock refinished in tung oil

7mmlefty said:
Just finished the final sanding and applied the first coat (of five) of tung oil.

The difference is night and day... or ugly to outstanding.:D

I sure hope the finish makes the rifles shoot more accurate, they will certainly woo the targets.:)

Thanks TK
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7mmlefty please use #0000 steel whool between coats then wipe down with methol hydrate. This will remove the fibers and cause the pours to fill evenly with the tung oil. Do this be fore every re-application. Also always wipe the tung oil in the direction of the wood grain and rub it in ;)
Also please post pic's when your done.
 
Satain said:
7mmlefty please use #0000 steel whool between coats then wipe down with methol hydrate. This will remove the fibers and cause the pours to fill evenly with the tung oil. Do this be fore every re-application. Also always wipe the tung oil in the direction of the wood grain and rub it in ;)
Also please post pic's when your done.
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I can do that.. but im not sure of the pics... unfortunately im an internet retard when it comes to anything complicated on the interweb.:)
 
The Kurgan said:
To be honest, its worth the work to remove that damn pin, but be careful or you'll crack the handguard wood. If you don't feel comfortable doing it, however, then don't bother, as it can be a real ##### on some SKS's.
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You got that right!.
I had to drill the 50's out and the 49's almost popped out and was all bent. The metal pin was soft so no probs drilling.

Probably worth it in the end finish I guess.:)
 
Here's few pics of my other SKS (1952 all-matching Tula "refurb") with a refinished blonde laminate stock, properly done in low lustre tung oil.

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Love the look of the laminates, almost seems like you can look into it, like 3D. Beautiful work Kurgan. When I first seen the SKS rifle I didn't like them. I have to say the more of them I see, it seem they are growing on me. Seems like laminates are becoming more popular on modern guns these day's. Does anyone know who first started this process, the Russians ???
The Kurgan said:
The natural colours of the arctic birch laminate stock are quite striking. Of course, that's a matter of opinion. :)

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got to go said:
Love the look of the laminates, almost seems like you can look into it, like 3D. Beautiful work Kurgan. When I first seen the SKS rifle I didn't like them. I have to say the more of them I see, it seem they are growing on me. Seems like laminates are becoming more popular on modern guns these day's. Does anyone know who first started this process, the Russians ???
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I believe it was the Germans during WWII that began experimenting with laminate stocks as a method to stretch the supply of wood, which was in short supply. I think the Russians simply copied the Germans, as they often did during that time.

One of the nicest attributes of laminate birch is the sort of 3-D effect after oiling. Very appealing.
 
Very nice job on the stocks gents.

I have one more coat of tung oil to apply for the grand finally.

Both of mine look lighter coloured, as in the previous photos, with the 49 being a bit darker for some reason.

They are very appealing compared to the original stock finish.:D

Thanks for the lesson on refinishing,.. my SKS's thank you.:)
 
7mmlefty said:
Very nice job on the stocks gents.

I have one more coat of tung oil to apply for the grand finally.

Both of mine look lighter coloured, as in the previous photos, with the 49 being a bit darker for some reason.

They are very appealing compared to the original stock finish.:D

Thanks for the lesson on refinishing,.. my SKS's thank you.:)
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The tung finish will darken with age, in a few months you will notice a marked difference.
 
I was under the impression stripper on a laminate surface could affect the integrity of the epoxy that holds the laminate together is there any truth in that? Also has anyone tried a deep orange shellac yet?
 
MRCLARK said:
I was under the impression stripper on a laminate surface could affect the integrity of the epoxy that holds the laminate together is there any truth in that? Also has anyone tried a deep orange shellac yet?
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I've done three stocks now, and none have shown any issues. The stripper only affects a very small layer of the surface. In fact, you need to add copious quantities of stripper just to remove the shellac layer.
 
i think shellac is alcohol based the laminating glue would be a different solvent. i think.
 
Hey guys, after you ting oil it, do you have to
Shelak it? Sorry for the newb question, never done this before lol. Also, is there a stain you can add to darken it more, and at what stage would you add it?
Thanks
 
Vyrtual said:
Hey guys, after you ting oil it, do you have to
Shelak it? Sorry for the newb question, never done this before lol. Also, is there a stain you can add to darken it more, and at what stage would you add it?
Thanks
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No need to shelac it as the tung oil penitrates the wood and does last longer because of this feature. As for stains check out the old master line up and get what ever color suites your fancy. General Paint, Lowes, Home Depot & ICI are a few places were you can get it. Although tung oil I can only find at ####'s or @ Windsor.
 
Vyrtual said:
Hey guys, after you ting oil it, do you have to
Shelak it? Sorry for the newb question, never done this before lol. Also, is there a stain you can add to darken it more, and at what stage would you add it?
Thanks
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Im not an expert with wood finishing by any means, but think any colour, be it pink or blue should be added right after youve removed all the old original crappy finish.
The dry virgin (liberated):) wood should take nicely to any colour at that stage I would think?...

As TK has suggested, one coat a day with tung oil for five coats seems to work nicely. 000 steel wool when dried after each coat smoothes out any rough spots so I find.. as mentioned in previous posts. The tung oil seems to penetrate deeply, and I didnt let mine get tacky before rubbing it in. I waited about five mins before wiping and removing any excess oil. Good luck!.
 
7mmlefty said:
Im not an expert with wood finishing by any means, but think any colour, be it pink or blue should be added right after youve removed all the old original crappy finish.
The dry virgin (liberated):) wood should take nicely to any colour at that stage I would think?...

As TK has suggested, one coat a day with tung oil for five coats seems to work nicely. 000 steel wool when dried after each coat smoothes out any rough spots so I find.. as mentioned in previous posts. The tung oil seems to penetrate deeply, and I didnt let mine get tacky before rubbing it in. I waited about five mins before wiping and removing any excess oil. Good luck!.
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Hey lefty, post some of that tung ####, we'd all like to see your handy work.
 
The Kurgan said:
Hey lefty, post some of that tung ####, we'd all like to see your handy work.
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I guess my last post sounded kinda kinky if youre mind is there?...lol.:)
I will post when I get a chance under a new thread. I have to wait till someone knows what theyre doing can post for me... I think I have A.D.D when it comes to that.:redface:
 
7mmlefty said:
Im not an expert with wood finishing by any means, but think any colour, be it pink or blue should be added right after youve removed all the old original crappy finish.
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^^^^ this
7mmlefty said:
The dry virgin (liberated):) wood should take nicely to any colour at that stage I would think?...
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Yes....but remember that stripping an old finish may not get rid of everything. Mostly that won't matter - and might even make the final stock look better. Each stock will be unique so enjoy what nature made. :)

I have a Chinese SKS with a solid wood stock and I was going to introduce it to Bubba, but I might refinish the stock just for fun. Maybe colour it so my wife will like it more. Gotta earn those brownie points.
 
Decided to just strip it and rung oil to an "au natural" finish. One coat down, 4 to go lol. Argh, why does it have to take 24 hours between coats??! Lol
 
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