Extended Rail for MR1??¿

I think it was a little bit of miscommunication. He's going back to talk to the manager. Those Toronto ranges are paranoid due to all the sketchy people that show up. I only go to the range when I shoot pistol anyhow. There is enough crown land up this way that has been unofficially designated as a shooting range.

And turns out, it is the same bit, T15. I was able to get the front one off, but I broke off just enough of the bit to not reach the back screw.
 
Eastern paranoia I guess, glad I live in the west. I never shoot indoors except for pistol either, seems pointless. There's a considerable amount of crown land down here too, but it seems there's always a "do gooder" around to save the world. It's got ridiculous. Thirty years ago you could have a little fun (with some common sense) but now you don't dare go outside of a marked and designated range. Even then there are idiots to deal with. We've got a public range west of town, government owned, and you wouldn't believe what goes on. The same guys that take their quads out into the backwoods and tear the hell out of everything go to the range and blow the hell out of everything (signs, garbage cans, seating, etc.)
 
Sounds about right. You try to keep a place sacred, but in time, the idiots find out, and you are forced to find some place else, farther away in hopes that they don't follow.
 
My shooting usually happens at a small town range. It's a long drive but it's worth it. People are friendly and safe and the facility is terrific (if a little short in range). It makes for a great day out without worrying about getting home in one piece.
 
I'm resurrecting the thread. I've done up the MR1, but I'm still looking to see if anyone has tried puting on the CX4 rail, or have tried any other means of extending the top picatinny rail.

I'll have pics up soon of my current setup. My plans now is to put a Vortex VMX3 magnidifier behind my eo tech, and my setup is complete.
 
IMG_0985%255B1%255D.JPG
 
furfaro said:
I've come across this as well. Benelli must have added this, but it is pricey. Believe it or not, the Benelli store has the cheapest price on the net I found.

http://store.benelliusa.com/r1-scope-base-picatinny
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I've seen that rail before but it's for the R1 not the MR1 so I'm not 100% sure it's compatible. I've been looking for a way to extend the top picatinny rail as well. I visited ATRS in Calgary today to see if they could custom build a top rail for my MR1. They are going to look into it and get back to me in the next couple of days. I talked with the owner who thinks he could get it done for $150-200. What we discussed was a top rail about 8 inches long with holes drilled and tapped for all 6 screws (4 for current rail and 2 for the removed rear sight).

I had the same problem mounting a scope onto this gun without removing the rear sight. I broke SIX (yes, 6) T15 wrenches trying to remove the back screw from the rear sight and in the end I put it in a vice grip and ripped it off. I purchased a rail mounted rear sight from TSE ($90) to replace it already. I have also reversed the direction of the rail on the gun and this gives you an additional 1/2 inch towards the redar of the gun to aid with eye relief. All of this would be unnecessary if I could have just used a red dot but all the ones I have tried have looked blurry to me so I think I have to stay with etched glass. I currently have a Burris Fullfield E1 2-7x35 mounted on the gun which works great.

If interested people give ATRS a call to inquire about a top picatinny rail maybe the price will come down. I told the owner that it's something he should offer as a regular item because there would be a lot of MR1 owners interested in it but I got the impression that he didn't feel the market was there.
 
NoTarget said:
I've seen that rail before but it's for the R1 not the MR1 so I'm not 100% sure it's compatible. I've been looking for a way to extend the top picatinny rail as well. I visited ATRS in Calgary today to see if they could custom build a top rail for my MR1. They are going to look into it and get back to me in the next couple of days. I talked with the owner who thinks he could get it done for $150-200. What we discussed was a top rail about 8 inches long with holes drilled and tapped for all 6 screws (4 for current rail and 2 for the removed rear sight).

I had the same problem mounting a scope onto this gun without removing the rear sight. I broke SIX (yes, 6) T15 wrenches trying to remove the back screw from the rear sight and in the end I put it in a vice grip and ripped it off. I purchased a rail mounted rear sight from TSE ($90) to replace it already. I have also reversed the direction of the rail on the gun and this gives you an additional 1/2 inch towards the redar of the gun to aid with eye relief. All of this would be unnecessary if I could have just used a red dot but all the ones I have tried have looked blurry to me so I think I have to stay with etched glass. I currently have a Burris Fullfield E1 2-7x35 mounted on the gun which works great.

If interested people give ATRS a call to inquire about a top picatinny rail maybe the price will come down. I told the owner that it's something he should offer as a regular item because there would be a lot of MR1 owners interested in it but I got the impression that he didn't feel the market was there.
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The market is there. If a few of us got together and placed the order, ATRS would probably look at machining the rail. I'm in for sure! :D Good to have this thread running again
 
sounds like this is just a matter of buying a peice of rail, and contouring the underside to fit on the receiver of the gun. I know this is a few months back now, but Hit 'r Miss explained how he did this for the under rail. Doesn't really seem like a $200 job. Might be worth it if you aren't handy or if you don't have the tools, but I'm trying to avoid having to pay high prices for a simple chunk of metal.

It's a viable option, and thanks for the idea NoTarget, but I'm cheap and I'm looking for something more reasonably priced if possible. If you do get that done, let me know how it goes. I may have to bite the bullet on this one if better options don't present themselves.
 
furfaro said:
sounds like this is just a matter of buying a peice of rail, and contouring the underside to fit on the receiver of the gun. I know this is a few months back now, but Hit 'r Miss explained how he did this for the under rail. Doesn't really seem like a $200 job. Might be worth it if you aren't handy or if you don't have the tools, but I'm trying to avoid having to pay high prices for a simple chunk of metal.

It's a viable option, and thanks for the idea NoTarget, but I'm cheap and I'm looking for something more reasonably priced if possible. If you do get that done, let me know how it goes. I may have to bite the bullet on this one if better options don't present themselves.
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ATRS sells custom Remington 700 rails for $150. He tried a couple of standard rails he had in the shop to see which one fit and it seemed the Savage model worked well. They retail the Savage rail for $195 but it is a steel piece and he felt that they could machine an aluminum rail for that price or less. That's why I think the final price would be $150-200.

You linked the R1 rail which was US$125 and would require you to pay shipping and customs so I didn't think the $150 picked up price point was too far off. If he has a few orders for them I'm hoping the price would be close to the $150 mark.

In any event, if/when I get this done I will be sure to let people know how it turns out.
 
furfaro said:
sounds like this is just a matter of buying a peice of rail, and contouring the underside to fit on the receiver of the gun. I know this is a few months back now, but Hit 'r Miss explained how he did this for the under rail. Doesn't really seem like a $200 job. Might be worth it if you aren't handy or if you don't have the tools, but I'm trying to avoid having to pay high prices for a simple chunk of metal.

It's a viable option, and thanks for the idea NoTarget, but I'm cheap and I'm looking for something more reasonably priced if possible. If you do get that done, let me know how it goes. I may have to bite the bullet on this one if better options don't present themselves.
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If a guy could get hold of the proper countersink for the mounting screws, and used the savage rail, I don't see it as much of a problem to complete. The trick is the countersink. I already have multiple countersinks but I don't know how well they'll work here and I don't want ugly. Might have to give this a whirl for the hell of it.
 
I'm not much of a metal guys put I have a lot of connections. What do you need in terms of countersink? I have a full aircraft metal shop at my disposal if I need.
 
Once I found out the proper screw size and head angle I'll let you know. I don't know if these screws are typical for the countersink. If you can answer either of these questions, that'll be one problem down. I can set up a jig in the low speed press for drilling no problem. The only other thing is to make sure there is absolutely no curvature along the top of the receiver toward the existing sight mounting area. Don't want any distortion of the rail or it's for nothing. I'll have to use a runout gauge while the rifle is hard mounted. That'll take some setup time.
 
You obviously have more metal experience then I do Hit 't Miss. Maybe break it down a little, because I think I lost you. You are saying take a savage rail, say one from their BA 110 for example? I assumed that you meant take any picatinny rail, match the curvature of the underside of the rail to the receiver, then you would have to countersink the top of the rail to take screws. As long and you had the right length screw and thread pitch you should be OK? Does this sound right, or am I in left field?
 
Yes, that's pretty much it, but when I said curvature I meant along the top of the receiver length wise, not the radius. The point past the existing rail looks like it drops off slightly toward the rear of the sight, maybe it's just my eyes. Either way, I want to make sure.

I'd like to make this a one piece all the way to the end of the hand guard with two easily removable, low profile thumb screws which would have to be removed for disassembly. This may be more of a pain the ass than anything though.
 
I'm reading you now. Doing a full length down the hand guarg definitly poses some issues. It can be done, but my concern is retaining sero on your optics whenever you disassemble. For me anyways, having the rail juist extend back to the end of the receiver will be enough for a magnidier to go in. I never understood a full length top rail. The only time it makes sense is if you put one of those super expensive lasers the military uses, and in that case, you need high mounted optics to clear it, and the laser can easily be mounted on a side rail. So still, I don't see a need for a full top rail myself.
 
NoTarget said:
ATRS sells custom Remington 700 rails for $150. He tried a couple of standard rails he had in the shop to see which one fit and it seemed the Savage model worked well. They retail the Savage rail for $195 but it is a steel piece and he felt that they could machine an aluminum rail for that price or less. That's why I think the final price would be $150-200.

You linked the R1 rail which was US$125 and would require you to pay shipping and customs so I didn't think the $150 picked up price point was too far off. If he has a few orders for them I'm hoping the price would be close to the $150 mark.

In any event, if/when I get this done I will be sure to let people know how it turns out.
Click to expand...

Update - I talked to ATRS yesterday and I think the price of the rail is going to be 'under $200'. They are going to make the rail during their next production run which would be in ~1 month. When they are getting close to that time they will contact me to make some final measurements.
 
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