THompson Center .45

[bumperfood]

Chances are you will chew up the barrel and plug trying to remove a well used breech plug. and you may never get it out. leave well enough alone, don't fix what isn't broken. To see the inside, if you must, get a drop in bore light, or a lighted arrow nock turn them on drop in the bore and take a peek.. Chances are extremely good if the end of the muzzle looks fine the rest is too. Do some shooting, clean it good, oil it up and stop worrying.

It is now all cleaned up and oiled, and I don't think I will try removing the breach plug, gee I could hardly see where the join line was. I took the hammer assembly off as well as the trigger assembly, but ran into a problem when I assembled it. Now the hammer goes to full ####, but does not stay there, just goes down to what I suspect is the safety position. I will take it apart tomorrow and see if I can sort it out. On a sde note, The barrel must be good (clean) as when I cleaned it in soapy water, no rust was evident was on the patches. I'm not actually worried about it Pete, just making sure I don't do any damage.

 

[Boolitcaster]

It is now all cleaned up and oiled, and I don't think I will try removing the breach plug, gee I could hardly see where the join line was. I took the hammer assembly off as well as the trigger assembly, but ran into a problem when I assembled it. Now the hammer goes to full ####, but does not stay there, just goes down to what I suspect is the safety position. I will take it apart tomorrow and see if I can sort it out. On a sde note, The barrel must be good (clean) as when I cleaned it in soapy water, no rust was evident was on the patches. I'm not actually worried about it Pete, just making sure I don't do any damage.

Try loosening the either the lock or trigger guards screws a little bit and you will find your hammer problem goes away. I had the same problem with my CVA Hawken when I first got it. The lock mechanism just binds a bit when the screws are too tight.

 

[petew]

If loosening the lock bolt doesn't fix it, Take the lock off and make sure the rear trigger is in the forward position as you set the lock back in. Hold it forward with a finger as you set the lock in place. Tighten the lock bolt just lightly snug. Don't drive it home or you will crack the stock.
Pete

 

[plinker 777]

Some here will flame me for saying this but, don't clean your gun with soapy water. Solvents and oils only, I'll bet if you didn't have rust in the bore before...you do now! Run a patch wet with gun oil on a tight jag down the bore and you will find evidence of surface rust from the bore on the patch. I too used the old hot soapy water method...never again, solvents and oils only are how I treat my guns.

 

[bumperfood]

If loosening the lock bolt doesn't fix it, Take the lock off and make sure the rear trigger is in the forward position as you set the lock back in. Hold it forward with a finger as you set the lock in place. Tighten the lock bolt just lightly snug. Don't drive it home or you will crack the stock.
Pete

Took it all apart again this am, noticed that on one of the two trigger mechanisms, (inside one) there was a area on the side that had obviously been catching on something, used a small stone and removed the small burr. Put it together, this time not tightening up the lock or guard screws just snugging them up. Put a small piece of vacuum hose over the nipple (thanks Bill) and it works great, after pulling the rear trigger I barely need to touch that front trigger and the hammer drops. Don't know if it was the stoning of the burr or just snugging the fasteners that did it, but it's great now.

Pete I tried pushing the rear trigger forward as you suggested, but this seemed to prevent the installation of the lock, as it was now above the trigger release; so I pulled it all the way back and there was a clicking sound, I wondered what it was, so after removing the trigger assembly again, I see this is just the set trigger going under a sear? in the front section. This I am pretty sure is what sets the hair trigger. It is an interesting mechanism, and actually fairly complex. I won't be dissassembling it any further methinks.

 

[bumperfood]

Some here will flame me for saying this but, don't clean your gun with soapy water. Solvents and oils only, I'll bet if you didn't have rust in the bore before...you do now! Run a patch wet with gun oil on a tight jag down the bore and you will find evidence of surface rust from the bore on the patch. I too used the old hot soapy water method...never again, solvents and oils only are how I treat my guns.

After I cleaned it with soap and water, I squirted a lot of WD40 down the barrel and then ran a few patches. I then used a product called move-it and squirted that into the barrel, Ran a few more patches, the soaked a couple of patches in Move it and swabbed the barrel for the final time. You are using just solvents and oils? Any thing in particular?

I now have everything I need except powder to take this to the range. The previous owner only used blackpowder, I think that might be all that was available at the time, and he says he liked the smell of it . I don't know whats available locally, but I will check around next week. Is there really that big a difference in safety between blackpowder and its substitutes, I mean I will use the newer stuff if I have too but I thing I'd like to try the real thing first.

 

[plinker 777]

Nothing in particular Bumperfood. Like you, I'll use penetrating oil, WD40, gun oil, "Ed's Red", Diesel fuel, Hoppes No9, just about anything on hand that is petroleum based. (careful, your stock will not appreciate this stuff) For long term storage I'll use either Ed's red (home brew concoction) or a lanoline based product called "Fluid Film" (found at CT) and I invert the rifles muzzle down. I do this for two reasons; 1) I don't want any oil migrating into my stocks oil soaking and ruining them, 2) the majority of my BP rifles are heavy octagon "Hawken" or "English sporting" type and I have it in my pea brain that years of storing all that weight on wood draws of the stock could cause stress fractures. (some of my guns date to the 1830's and are original stocks) Whether there is any reality to this concern I can't really say, but it helps me sleep better at night.

I have tried substitute powder and hated the sh1t, some guys love it. Its less corrosive, or not corrosive at all, it claims to not foul the barrel...which I believe...if you can't get the stuff to ignite, how would it ever foul a barrel!?
Anyhow, I had ignition problems that frustrated me to no end, so I went back to GOEX FF and FFF and never looked back. When you find some, buy all you can afford is my advice. It won't go bad stored properly and you will encounter "dry spells" where no one is bringing powder in. Expect to pay from $25-$30 per pound for it, but a pound goes a long way with 60 grain charges per ball/boolit.

I also like the smell of real BP (GOEX).

 

[Goldenlakepete]

I've been using Pyrodex Rs in my Lyman Trade Rifle and have had no ignition problems. A friend uses 777 and swears by it. Another friend uses Jim Shockley's Gold powder.

If you can't get real black powder - don't worry - give one of the substitutes a try.

 

[wr.sainsbury]

Greetings again-good to see your progress. I would suggest using the proper fffg black powder by Goex. Our club has just made our annual bulk purchase and I can help you out with some if you pm me with your phone #. Cheers, Bill

 

[petew]

Greetings again-good to see your progress. I would suggest using the proper fffg black powder by Goex. Our club has just made our annual bulk purchase and I can help you out with some if you pm me with your phone #. Cheers, Bill

Now you are in business. Get the Goex and don't look back.

 

[bumperfood]

Went to the gun club range today, as it was reserved for black powder shooting. Took over an hour before I fired my first shot. We talked about safety, parches, lubes, ball and conical bullets (maxi and mini),black powder and its substitutes, possible bags and their contents. I learned more in that hour, then I have learned through internet searches etc. in the past two months. We even took the rifle apart and fixed a sear problem, that was causing the hammer to fall at times, without pulling the trigger.

After shooting it a few times (all over the board), one of them gave me a few patches that were a little thicker, and the grouping improved dramatically, I thought it was just my sight picture combined with old eyes, so many variables in the equation now. Anyhow great time, but I see I need some more equipment, have to save some more shekels up.

 

[plinker 777]

bumperfood; do your wife/significant other a favor and give them a "heads up". You are on the hellbound train of Black Powder addiction, the situation is terminal...you have sampled the devils pleasures and there is no turning back, methadone will not get this monkey off your back...she should be made well aware IMHO.
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Welcome to the "club"!