Norinco NS522 build: NEW MAG RELEASE

Norinco NS522 build: Part 3 update!

I bedded mine with Devcon, as I had lots on hand. This was my first bedding attempt and it went pretty well. I think I over did the release agent a bit, but pretty straight forward.

In hindsight, I should have pillared as well, rather than filling down the bolt shaft with epoxy.

Free floating the barrel was as simple as a round file and some sand paper.

I think I am going to flush the trigger guard to the stock, fill in around the bolt handle with epoxy and then give the whole thing a paint job.

Father, I am on the edge of my seat to hear about how that spring worked out, as trigger is my next focus.
 
Loyalist said:
I bedded mine with Devcon, as I had lots on hand. This was my first bedding attempt and it went pretty well. I think I over did the release agent a bit, but pretty straight forward.

In hindsight, I should have pillared as well, rather than filling down the bolt shaft with epoxy.

Free floating the barrel was as simple as a round file and some sand paper.

I think I am going to flush the trigger guard to the stock, fill in around the bolt handle with epoxy and then give the whole thing a paint job.

Father, I am on the edge of my seat to hear about how that spring worked out, as trigger is my next focus.
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Well,

I just got back from the range testing the spring, so you will not have to wait long. I want to be sure it is safe and resets correctly. I will be posting my findings shortly.
 
I've got a few good carving tools that came from Lee Valley. Ashley Iles is the brand. Paid a lot more for them than these examples but they work. I'd say that Trev and Scott are being far too kind based on what Trev gives as the details of his experience. A carving tool that won't take and hold literally a razor edge for a reasonable time is just a poor screwdriver. If someone feels that they NEED carving tools then buy a few of the good ones instead of a big set of "bread knife" quality tools for cheap.

Father, I can see clearly from your pictures (thanks a ton for the time and effort!) that the Anschutz rear peep I've got won't work on this rifle either. To get the eye cup back behind the tail of the bolt where it would need to be the frame would foul the rise of the lever handle.

I may just go for one anyway given all the results I've read about them here and elsewhere. But I'll still need to make a dovetail to dovetail riser block to lift the sight up far enough that the bolt handle can operate freely.
 
BCRider said:
I've got a few good carving tools that came from Lee Valley. Ashley Iles is the brand. Paid a lot more for them than these examples but they work. I'd say that Trev and Scott are being far too kind based on what Trev gives as the details of his experience. A carving tool that won't take and hold literally a razor edge for a reasonable time is just a poor screwdriver. If someone feels that they NEED carving tools then buy a few of the good ones instead of a big set of "bread knife" quality tools for cheap.

Father, I can see clearly from your pictures (thanks a ton for the time and effort!) that the Anschutz rear peep I've got won't work on this rifle either. To get the eye cup back behind the tail of the bolt where it would need to be the frame would foul the rise of the lever handle.

I may just go for one anyway given all the results I've read about them here and elsewhere. But I'll still need to make a dovetail to dovetail riser block to lift the sight up far enough that the bolt handle can operate freely.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you need a Marlin or Savage
 
Not sure about the Marlin option but the Savage Mk II I've got may see a dovetail rail for the sight in time. Got to get the machine shop back into operation first.

I actually took the sight around to the various stores in the area asking for a rifle to fit the sight. Got a few smiles from the counter guys on that one....:D Out of all the local options I found only two worked. One was a rather expensive Weatherby by Anschutz option and the other was the Browning Tbolt. And of course the Tbolt works because there's simply motion to the top of the receiver.
 
Mmmmmm...

Forget what I said then.

I figured a marlin or savage due to their full length dtail groove, but perhaps I am not understanding your needs.
 
luke s said:
so whats the conclusion with this rifle? worthy to buy or just get a savage mkII with accutrigger for similar price?
Click to expand...

I have owned over a dozen Savages and this rifle bar none outshoots them all. Period .


BUT, a Savage is nicer and smoother out of the box and nearly as accurate with much nicer wood, so it really depends if you want the better looker or a better shooter.

I will always choose the latter.

Flame away.
 
Father said:
Mmmmmm...

Forget what I said then.

I figured a marlin or savage due to their full length dtail groove, but perhaps I am not understanding your needs.
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I haven't seen a Marlin but the Savage doesn't have the dovetail cut into the receiver any more if they did in the past. The current Mk II bolt guns use screw on mounts. Short ones at that.

The sight slips right on a CZ but the sight sits low and wide enough to block the bolt from functioning. That's the same thing I found on most of the bolt rifles so far. If there's a dovetail cut into the receiver then the bolt has to rise up far enough to hit the sight and prevent the cycling of the bolt.
 
Sorry about posting the chep Busy Bee chisels.
Would this work better?









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[h=3]Full Control Of Cutting Head At All Times With All Cuts[/h]Perfect, chatter-free cut, shaves out excess wood, leaves barrel channel smooth and ready for barrel without gouging, rasping or final sanding. Cushioned-cutter design keeps hardened steel cutter discs at correct angle to remove wood without "digging in" regardless of amount of pressure. A favorite with pros.

Big Book Catalog, Issue:66, Page:438

SPECS: 10" (25.4cm) overall. Cut length approximate 1¼" (3.2cm). 7/8" and 1" diameter replacement cutters are sold 9 per pak, all other sizes are sold 11 per pak. Bbl. Bedding Tool Set includes ½", 9/16", 5/8", 11/16" and ¾" bedding tools complete with handles and cutters.




[h=1]GUNLINE - BARREL BEDDING TOOL[/h]


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BCRider said:
I haven't seen a Marlin but the Savage doesn't have the dovetail cut into the receiver any more if they did in the past. The current Mk II bolt guns use screw on mounts. Short ones at that.

The sight slips right on a CZ but the sight sits low and wide enough to block the bolt from functioning. That's the same thing I found on most of the bolt rifles so far. If there's a dovetail cut into the receiver then the bolt has to rise up far enough to hit the sight and prevent the cycling of the bolt.
Click to expand...



Man, sorry , must be too much beer!
I said Savage, but I was thinking Lakefield MK2. Probably not what you want overall, but the grooves are full length. I had a TOZ 17 that had a large peep sight fitted a few years ago. If I recall the bolt is straight and angled quite low. Again, probably not what you want at all, but the TOZ was a sweet shooter. Perhaps one of the more modern Winchester Wildcats would work? They are a sweet rifle.
 
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cet,

Yes, it would if you were making your own stock, but I would say you would only need like three passes on most rifles to get a free float. Are you building your own stock?
 
Father said:
cet,

Yes, it would if you were making your own stock, but I would say you would only need like three passes on most rifles to get a free float. Are you building your own stock?
Click to expand...

No, not at all.
Was following this post with interest, was wondering about the various methods used to enlarge the barrel channel.
Seems to me that sand paper and a socket, as suggested and pictured, is brilliant.
Thanks for taking the time to post it.

Cheers
 
Father, again I appreciate your help. But I hate to drag your thread too far off the rails. I'll keep on looking for a home for my rear site. The search is half the fun after all.... :D

I'm also thinking that February's mad money might just go on a NS522 anyway. If I leap in that direction I'll post a bragging thread here.

I'll still be watching this thread with great intrest. It doesn't matter if someone is working on a 522 or something else. There's a lot of gold nuggests the size of golf balls in this thread. Thanks for the efforts to continuously document your progress with lots of great pictures. It's very inspirational.
 
BCRider said:
Father, again I appreciate your help. But I hate to drag your thread too far off the rails. I'll keep on looking for a home for my rear site. The search is half the fun after all.... :D

I'm also thinking that February's mad money might just go on a NS522 anyway. If I leap in that direction I'll post a bragging thread here.

I'll still be watching this thread with great intrest. It doesn't matter if someone is working on a 522 or something else. There's a lot of gold nuggests the size of golf balls in this thread. Thanks for the efforts to continuously document your progress with lots of great pictures. It's very inspirational.
Click to expand...

Man, thanks for the kind words. It has been alot of fun.
 
Encouraged and inspired by Father's wisdom, I have done free floating the barrel and pillaring the receiver to my NS522.
Here's the rifle when I received it, the stock bedding is really terrible, using four washers which I have ever seen used in a rifle for the first time, besides, one of the two bolts is bent somehow, I believed that the stock is not design for this rifle.



So I found something perfect for pillaring.



After free floating the barrel using sand paper and socket Father recommended which I found are amazing, I augered the bolt hole and tried (screwed) the pillar in, it stayed there perfectly, I did not even do anything to the pillars, the length of the pillar is exactly what I wanted.


Then I applied some epoxy and here we go.


 
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I'm in the same boat. Tried pillaring for the first time thanks to Father's description and pics. I've also free floated the barrel and bedded the front of the action, as well as filled in the gap at the end of the trigger guard. If we ever get a decent day with light winds, I'll give it a whirl and post some target pics.
 
Arwho , did you have to cut the lamp post or there was one that was the good lenght . Also where di you buy that kit and why the nut ?
 
Hi, Repp.,
You can see the original fitting is achieved by adding two washers between the trigger guard and the stock, so I put the nuts to fit it and I think they can reinforce the pillars to the stock.
I found the lamp posts in Rona Quinquaries, in the electricity sector, and two of the posts are exactly the length to do pillaring in this specific rifle.
Good luck.
 
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