.22lr upper from Questar?

OZZ said:
I havnt had a chance to do anything with mine yet, but one thing I did notice is the mag that came with it has a different follower (it sticks up more)
and the extra one I bought has a follower that is flush with the top of the mag.

Is your the same, I`ll have to ask Mark about this. I totally agree just looking and touching it so far it looks like a quality item.
Click to expand...

That's the new bolt hold open follower. It gets jammed in between the bolt face and chamber so you don't dry fire on an empty chamber.

I have used my modified ones with my Atchisson kit and you even here a difference in sound. Quite helpful because I loose count when I have 25 rounds in the mag. :D
 
I got mine on Wed. in the mail. Inspected and lubed it, then went to the range the next day.

I put 400 rounds down the pipe on Thursday and another 200 today. 400 Remington yellow jacket TCHP and 200 Winchester Super speed RN in the plastic 100 packs. It feeds the TC better.

If I load the mag full (27), it sometimes has a hard time chambering the first round. But put in 25 rounds and no problems.

Everything comes apart easily except for the firing pin retaining pin which required a very small screw driver tip and a light tap of the hand.

All parts are nicely machined and fit together well. The rubber o-ring/recoil spring bumper is showing signs of abbrasion but nothing serious and easily replaced. I did get a small nick on the barrel ramp edge from a case (I think) that did not eject fully.

So far I'm very happy with my new upper and having lots of fun shooting less expensive ammo.
 
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Mine arrived today. I've got the varmint flat top version. Looks good. The threaded end is neat. Too bad I can't use that feature :(.

It's all lubed up and ready to go.

Stag 2T on the way. I'll use this with that lower.

Yup my two Black extra mags are flush, while the smokey/translucent one has the extra plastic sticking up. They look good. Although I have to say I'm partial to the black ones.

Loaded up my mags tonight. After about 15 rounds it gets very stiff. I've only been able to load a max of 20 rounds without my thumb hurting too much. The mags are well build and sure look good. I imagine it'll get easier to load as the springs loosen up.
 
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Anyone can confirm (or even most definitely theoretically probable) that these things are gonna work on a Norinco M311 lower?

I mean other than the non-'Imperial' threading, it's identical, right?
 
Question: Are these barrels chrome lined? Is there any issue cutting one of these down on a lathe and retapping for the brake?

I really like this 10.5" barrel look, and would consider a second TacSol .22 upper if there was no issue cutting down the barrel.

DAC%20Website_0067.jpg
 
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The Tactical Solutions Barrels are not chrome lined, so there should be no issue to the cutting, recrowning and threading the barrel
 
POS:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:

I shot less than 10 rounds, the f**king thing wont fire. I tried CCI MiniMag, CCI Stinger and some American Eagle. I could only get the MiniMag to fire, and it was less than 10 rounds. Appears to be very light primer strikes. I had some tools with me so I tried to reshape the firing pin head and remove a few coils from the firing pin spring, but it did not help. I heard on AR15.com there is a new firing pin available, but was hoping I was one of the lucky ones. :(:(:(
 
DPMS, stock trigger and hammer, nothing special. I run my Atchisson conversion kit in a CMMG upper on it and get one FTE every 200 rounds.
 
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Hmmm, Give Questar a shout see what he says.

My Stag 2T should be here in a week. I'll give the .22 upper a try then. You've got me nervous.
 
Okay, after comparing the bolt assembly of the TacSol with my Atchisson MKII conversion kit which runs extremely well, I see two real big differences: The length of the bolt assembly that houses the firing pin, and the firing pins themselves.

Here are images to show what I mean. This first picture shows the bolt length difference between the TacSol (left) and the Atchisson MKII Conversion Kit in a CMMG .223 Upper (right). You can see the TacSol is longer. I used cleaning rod sections through the mounting pin holes to help keep the uppers aligned. The red lines are the back of the bolt, and also the firing pins are pointed out.

IMG_4170a.jpg


This may not seem like it makes a difference, but it probably does. With the Atchisson kit installed on my DPMS lower I can see the hammer through the gate, and clearly see that in the fired position the hammer just touches the entire back on the bolt as I install the upper. It sits flat againts the bolt basically.

On the TacSol the extra length will cause the hammer to contact the bolt at a lower part, meaning less firing pin contact in this case. Because of the design I can't directly see the way the hammer sits, but I can see between the gap of the upper and lower as I mount the upper and can clearly see the hammer being pushed back. This will cause the hammer to sit at a slight angle, meaning contact near the base but poor contact where the firing pin is. You can also see in the above photo the firing pins protrude about the same amount.

Here is a diagram to explain.

tsahb.jpg


The other difference are the firing pins. On the Atchisson when the hammer is in the fired position, and the firing pin flush with the back of the bolt, it protrudes into the breach face.

On the TacSol the firing pin stays hidden in the bolt via a spring and only contacts a cartridge when struck. The problem is the firing pin appears to be too short, or the spring is too strong, or the hammer isn't striking hard enough.

With mine I had some tools and removed a couple coils off the spring, but it didn't help. Most likely a longer firing pin will fix it. I have been informed I probably voided my warranty messing with my upper, so I will probably make my own firing pin, one that is longer at both ends. This way I will get better hammer striking as well as it protruding closer to the breach face.
 
Maybe the answer is NOT a longer firing pin but instead, remove a bit of material at the back end of the bolt and slant it to match the angle of the hammer. That way, when the hammer strikes, it will hit the FP full on with 100% of the force being transmitted to the FP. From the pics it actually looks like the hammer has been hitting the rear of the bolt just under the FP.
 
Mr AR15 said:
Maybe the answer is NOT a longer firing pin but instead, remove a bit of material at the back end of the bolt and slant it to match the angle of the hammer. That way, when the hammer strikes, it will hit the FP full on with 100% of the force being transmitted to the FP. From the pics it actually looks like the hammer has been hitting the rear of the bolt just under the FP.
Click to expand...

I have also thought of this. I have access to both a mill and lathe. Milling the bolt is obviously more permanent, however.
 
Mr AR15 said:
Maybe the answer is NOT a longer firing pin but instead, remove a bit of material at the back end of the bolt and slant it to match the angle of the hammer. That way, when the hammer strikes, it will hit the FP full on with 100% of the force being transmitted to the FP. From the pics it actually looks like the hammer has been hitting the rear of the bolt just under the FP.
Click to expand...

I measured and the difference is 0.050". I think milling will really help with the light strikes. Last night I removed material from the firing pin's retaining pin channel, a groove cut into the firing pin that gives it it's set distance of movement forward and rearward. The extra length sticking out the back of the bolt didn't seem to help, just not enough hammer striking force due to the bolt design.
 
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Do you have any way to compare your hammer spring to another hammer spring on a diifferent make of lower.

I had a real difficult time with my DPMS upper all because the hammer spring on my lower was way too light. You could see a marked difference in the brass cases where the FP strike was. I wouldn't play to much more with machining stuff until you know for certain that its not the hammer spring. If it is the hammer spring, nothing else you do is going to cure it including snipping coils of the FP spring.

I started with a colt lower, NO GO, about 20% FTF and then I tried a match trigger, big mistake, about 50% FTF. when I went to a new stock Armalite lower that finaly did it, 0% FTF. The difference in the hammer spring from lower to lower is considerable.
 
I was writing down measurements I need for milling the bolt and noticed if I mill off 0.050", when the hammer is in the fired position (assuming it sits pretty much flat against the bolt after milling) the firing pin prutrudes into the breach face. This seems like it will fix the problem. I wonder, however, if this will make it more likely for firing pin breakage? I could even shorten the firing pin a little (after testing with just milling the bolt).
 
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