.308 Reloading moa what do to next for submoa?

The groups you shot could be achived at 300y with the 168gr bullets
powders H4895,Imr 4895, Varget RL 15 & 4064 these are proven powders in .308win benchrest shooting.start low 39gr with first two powders and about 40.5 of 4064.
I watched a fellow shooting 42gr varget 5 shot group.230" at 100 Rem 700.
Pretty hard to achive tiny groups with a 2 or 4lb trigger or if gun not bedded, bedding is a must!!!, you must have a front and rear solid rests and the bench also solid
your on your way good luck
 
Well I am going to take everything mentioned into account and report back with some more targets next week.

I like how people make suggestions without reading what I am orginally trying to achive... I dont want to have a leadsled or or bolt down gun and shoot it remotely... in my opinion thats not shooting thats scientific research... I am trying to make the equipment and myself work together to achive this goal.

I am talking about real world marksmanship... how many, soldiers, marines, swat snipers etc do you see shooting this way... soild rests, leadsleds etc.

If you understand MOA its a mathimatical known, the tighter the grouping at 100 the better the group at 300 600 1000... a crappy grouping at 100 is only going to get worse the further it goes... I have been looking at 100 yard target and saying to myself this looks pretty close but in between testing I have been taking shots too at 200 yards. I was going to go for some 400 yard shots but I only have a 12 power scope on that rifle for now and I its nothing like the 8.5x25 I have on my 223 once I upgrade the scope I hope to push this out past 600 yards at steel gongs.

I am also simultainously working on a 223 69 BHPT with IMR 3031 in my 223... its been shot out to 600 yards already.
 
In my opinion you need to have your load shooting as accurate as possible from the bench, with front and rear bags. However you wish to shoot after that is up to you. In the field I prefer the use of shooting sticks from a sitting position. I find this very steady for shooting at game. Some fellows like to throw off their back packs and shoot prone. For my way of thinking I am more confident in the field when I know that on paper at the range my load groups well at 100, 200 and 300 yards. FS
 
12X scope will work 400 yards, I have seen guys use 10X at 1000 yards. When the C3 sniper rifle was first issued to CF Snipers it only had a 6X Kahles.
If you have a range longer than 100 yards available why bother testing loads at such short range? Afterall 1 MOA is 1 MOA at all ranges. Sometimes a nice 100 yard load can turn into real crap to 200 or 300 or more. Always try and test at the longest range you have available.
 
I have 1000 + yards available to me.

I have been spoiled with my leupold 8.5x25x50... The 4x12x40 is a heavy duplex and I like to be able to see whats going on...I have the philosophy that if you can't see what your shooting then how can you hit it. The leupold I have on my 308 does not have turrets so its very hard to accuratly dial it up for range... the 8.5 on my 223 is awesome I have a custom table I made in the scope cap with range all the way out to 1000 yards dial and shoot its wicked I want to get one for my 308 but I need to make some more money first.

I have a 6x6" steel gong at 400 yards it was harder to see because I had painted it silver and it kinda blends in with the snow but if it black it blends in with the dirt i am going to have to spray it with orange.

I always wonder why usmc snipers only use 10x

Like I said I am not discounting anything anyone said I am going to try it all and hope I can get some groups less then .700 at 100 and maybe some 3/4 moa at 200. Once I have a set load I will cronograph it and do a custom ballitsics table for drop.

Long range shooting is additive and so is precision its only fun when your hitting your target missing is frustrating.
 
Msg.Drew, I think you completely missed Faststeel's point. You ask questions about load development then say you are shooting of a bipod with no solid rest to see how well YOU can shoot?

These two things are mutually exclusive. First, load development from field positions is a waste of time. The goal is to find out what shoots best from your RIFLE. Once you have that figured out, then go shoot from field positions to see how well YOU can shoot.

Load development requires a solid benchrest, not a chunk of plywood on a couple saw horses. And if you are saying you are shooting from field positions, what is with the plywood table?
 
Msg.Drew, I think you completely missed Faststeel's point. You ask questions about load development then say you are shooting of a bipod with no solid rest to see how well YOU can shoot?

These two things are mutually exclusive. First, load development from field positions is a waste of time. The goal is to find out what shoots best from your RIFLE. Once you have that figured out, then go shoot from field positions to see how well YOU can shoot.

Load development requires a solid benchrest, not a chunk of plywood on a couple saw horses. And if you are saying you are shooting from field positions, what is with the plywood table?

Personally I dont like lying in the snow its cold and wet. Its load development for the way I shoot...
Sometimes I shoot off the hood of my truck whats your point... in the summer I will shoot prone...
I practice shooting from a standing postion too but thats not for accuracy.

All I was looking for was a tip or some advice of where I should go next based on the 5 targets I posted.
 
Your groups are a good start.

If those were mine, I would try a couple steps hotter, to see which way the groups go, but I would be prepared to stop if i got pressure.

I would also pick one powder charge and run a seating depth test of touching, 10 thou off and 20 thou off.

Maynard gave you good advice about using a black square aiming mark. I aim at the corner of 1" square patch. i can put for of them on the back of a target.

Are you using a rear bag to hold the butt? I use a wool sock full of white beans or dried peas, tied in a knot. Cheap and effective. (And light.)
 
If you don't have pressure signs, I'd say go up another @0.5 gr ... 42gr of IMR3031 with 175 SMK (moly) in Norma brass at 2.810" COAL is one of my 'precision' loads. Winchester brass has another water grain volume over Norma. Typically, I do 0.3gr differential on .308W load build-up (about half of what you are doing). Also, try load work-ups at 200m if you can.

You might want to change primers as well - from what I've read, Winchester primers seem to work best on ball powder (nothing definitive on this, just anecdotal).
 
For a rear rest I normally use my mtm ammo box and set my fist on top of that and let the butt of the gun rest on my fist.

I was thinking hotter too as 42.0 is the max listed in the loading manuals i'll have to cronograph them and check for signs of pressure normally pressure and velocity arnt linear.

I seated the bullets just so they arnt touching the rifleing at 2.900"

I have federal primers but I wanted to use up the winchester first.

I bought a nice laminate thumbhole stock for it tonight pepper finish its as tactical as they make laminate... I am going to bed it when I get it.

I am going to switch to squares next range session, and maybe try 39.7 and up in 0.3 grain increments
 
I don't really understand how you can judge which load might be best with only one group fired at each powder charge. How can you be sure that it wasn't a fluke, albeit a minor one, that gave a tighter group or a larger group?
 
I don't really understand how you can judge which load might be best with only one group fired at each powder charge. How can you be sure that it wasn't a fluke, albeit a minor one, that gave a tighter group or a larger group?


I did mention that I should run the same test again on page 1 to prove that it was the powder charge that attributed the smaller group and not a fluke. Also the 5 shot group helps... it would have been better if I shot 10 shot groups
 
Ball powder is harder to ignite, so Winchester (who make ball powder)also make a primer that is a bit hotter than the standard CCI or federal.

But, the standard Winchester primer works very well with stick powder. We used to use federal match primers in our sniper ammo and one time had trouble lcating 40,000 federal match primers, so used Winchester instead. Previous testing for my own loads had shown that it got similar results to the Federal, other than about 25 fps higher velocity.

The sniper ammo produced the same test results.

My suggestion would be to buy your primers by at least the case of 5,000 so that you can use the same lot number for awhile. It lasts forever on the shelf. if I was only buying one primer I would by the Winchester becasue it has slightly wider application.
 
If your looking for sub MOA groups don't ignore your brass. I always deburr and uniform the flash holes and true up the primer pockets. You only have to do it once and it doesn't take that long. I consider it free accuracy. I also turn the necks. How much help this is on a factory rifle is debateable but again.......you might as well do everything you can. On factory rifles I just set my neck turner ( K&M ) to shave about 70 % of the circumferance of the neck and then check for concentricity. You don't want to make the neck less than .015 or you may have problems sizing with standard dies. The reason I do the necks is to uniform the neck tension on the bullet. Again this can be debated but I figure every little bit helps.
For powder don't turn your nose up at IMR 4064. I've great luck with it. Currently I'm using 44.0 grs in a Savage BAS-K with excellent results. I also use Fed match primers for the extra consistency. My bullet of choice for accuracy is the 168 gr SMK which is what I've been using for the load data above.
As stated 5 shot goups are the way to go.........and shoot a few of them before you make your mind up on a load.
Good luck..........not every rifle is capable of one hole groups.........but I never stop trying!
 
Personally I dont like lying in the snow its cold and wet. Its load development for the way I shoot...
Sometimes I shoot off the hood of my truck whats your point... in the summer I will shoot prone...
I practice shooting from a standing postion too but thats not for accuracy.

All I was looking for was a tip or some advice of where I should go next based on the 5 targets I posted.

You got some good advice on where to go next - and you are ignoring it.

You are missing my point, so I will try again:

Your question was about load development; powder, bullets, primers, etc. As some wise posters have already stated, you need to have a SOLID rest to do your load development, figure out the most accurate load for your rifle, then go shoot with a box full loaded the same. That is achieved through the use of a SOLID rest, good form, and a rear bag, otherwise you are wasting your time and money.

A rifle is not nearly as sensitive to how you hold it as is a pistol (ETA, if you are going to shoot from your bipod in the field, you should use that as your front rest while developing loads as it is a big enough variable to 'possibly' be significant). So the goal is to find out what is most accurate in your rifle under ideal conditions. Then you can go shooting in the field and test YOUR accuracy.

Trying to help.

Scout posted an interesting link, will have to try that.
 
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This thing holds dead steady... its my third thumbhole... Its the seconds nicest I own other then my custom 10/22 stock.

P2010174.jpg


I got a rear bag too... Leupold 8.5x25x50 is on the way so I can dial up yardages.

I worked some other loads to test .3 grain increments from 39.9 to 40.5 along with my other loads because I changed the stock which could affect the barrel because now its truely free floating.

After these 50 shots I should have a solid load to try at long range.

Ps. I am selling these nice boyds stocks in my online store if anyone is interested.
 
The 4x12x40 is a heavy duplex and I like to be able to see whats going on...I have the philosophy that if you can't see what your shooting then how can you hit it.

If you haven't already had the opportunity, have a look at the sight picture seen through target iron sights (e.g 20y or 50m smallbore, or 300m fullbore). The target's black aiming blob is typically 5-6 MOA in diameter, and the front sight aperture is typically about 8-9 MOA in diameter. And yet with only a year or so of practice, an intermediate level shooter can deliver 2.5 MOA groups, and is probably capable of seeing sighting errors or 1MOA or less. And an experienced shooter can deliver groups of about 1 MOA, and is almost always able to see sighting errors of 0.5 MOA and even less.

This is applicable to scope shooting too. Just because you don't have a *big* sight picture, does not mean that you are not capable of extremely fine aiming. Hunter Benchrest uses 6X scopes at 100 yards, and you simply would not believe how accurately they are able to shoot.

It is my opinion that many F-Class shooters mistakenly choose an extremely fine reticle, in the belief that it is necessary to do so in order to aim precisely enough. When I was shooting F-Class, I preferred to use the heaviest reticles I could get (part of the reason was to provide assured contrast against the mainly-black targets that we shoo at; I found that with a very fine crosshair or dot that the reticle would sometimes "disappear"). When I used a Weaver KT-15, which has a heavier duplex reticle than a standard Leupold duplex, I was able to easily resolve my point of aim for each shot to better than 0.1 MOA.

I always wonder why usmc snipers only use 10x

Most of the reason is probably an extremely mundane one - it's because that is what they have been given.

Military weapons procurement is extremely conservative in many ways. Why should a sniper rifle have to be able to chamber and fire machine gun or infantry rifle ammo? Why should a sniper rifle have backup iron sights? Why should a sniper rifle have a fixed-magnification scope? Why should it be of relatively modest power? Why should a sniper rifle not be equipped with a supressor?

Like I said I am not discounting anything anyone said I am going to try it all and hope I can get some groups less then .700 at 100 and maybe some 3/4 moa at 200. Once I have a set load I will cronograph it and do a custom ballitsics table for drop.

Long range shooting is additive and so is precision its only fun when your hitting your target missing is frustrating.

For a rear rest I normally use my mtm ammo box and set my fist on top of that and let the butt of the gun rest on my fist.

There's nothing wrong with the groups you have gotten so far - very roughly, you are getting honest, repeatable, 1-MOA 5-shot groups at 100 yards using less-than-ideal testing techniques. Personally, I think I would be hard-pressed to deliver groups smaller than 1MOA if I had to support the butt of my rifle with my hand, whereas I can confidently deliver 0.5-0.6MOA using the same setup but with a sandbag rear rest.

Also, you are shooting a factory rifle. It is possible that you can get better performance by tuning up a load for it (and by all means try to), and it is also possible that this is simply the limit of what this particular barrel is capable of.

Even if you can't improve on what you have now (consistent 5-shot 1-MOA groups), you should go ahead and do some shooting at longer range. Pretty much anything that groups well at 100 yards would be expected to perform well out to 600 yards. Beyond that, perhaps by 800 yards but *definitely* by 900 yards, the shot-to-shot consistency of velocity will become important (slower shots will land lower and faster shots land higher). So if you want to shoot 800+ yards, it would be worthwhile getting your velocity Extreme Spreads below 50fps.

I was thinking hotter too as 42.0 is the max listed in the loading manuals i'll have to cronograph them and check for signs of pressure normally pressure and velocity arnt linear.

I seated the bullets just so they arnt touching the rifleing at 2.900"

I have federal primers but I wanted to use up the winchester first.

Start using a chronograph ASAP. You're now at the stage (you're getting "basically good" performance) that a chrono will help.

Remington chambers are *LONG*, as you have found out. You'd almost think they were designed by lawyers, eh...? ;-) (I sometime think that they want to make sure that if you drag a round through the mud, chamber it and shoot, that they can protect you from stupidity!). It might not be possible to get near the lands (a friend of mine ended up using Sierra 190s in his Rem 700VS, just in order to be able to reach the lands).

Something worth exploring at some point is whether plain old magzine-length ammo (2.800" COAL) works just as well. It'll have a mile and a half of jump, but this is how factory match ammo is made, and quite often said mag-length factory match ammo will shoot extremely well.

Winchester and Federal primers will likely both deliver good results for you, but it is always possible that there could be a difference, and so it is something that eventually will have to be tested. So if you plan on eventually using Federal primers, you might as well start using them ASAP in your load development. To be honest though, I'd simply choose one or the other, and use it exclusively - save the other brand for another rifle.

If your looking for sub MOA groups don't ignore your brass. [snip]. Again this can be debated but I figure every little bit helps.

Brass prep can't hurt, but it doesn't necessarily help. If it make you feel better, e.g. absolutely certain that nothing has been left to chance, by all means go ahead and do it.

*BUT*, keep in mind that high quality factory match ammo (Lapua, Norma, Federal) is capable of delivering real 0.5 MOA performance in good rifles. By definition, they are not using match-prepped brass. (Also, they are using thrown powder charges too!).

The most cost-effective piece of load development one can do is to spend $500 and stick a known-good match barrel on a rifle. If you're cheap or stubborn, and certainly many of us shooters are both of those in spades ;-), you can always try to see what that factory barrel is actually capable of....
 
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