Thanks for the data. I never really understood doing all those extra steps just to end up with "the rifle is on at 100, when set to 100". Why not just zero at 100, using the 100 setting lol. Im jk a bit of course, honestly i do think this zeroing method was used so the conscript level troops in the cccp would be able to more easily aquire something remotely close to a proper sight picture which granted can be tough at 100m with a thicker front post, and i know they were told to keep their sights on the universal setting as they didn't trust most of them to be messing with the elevation at all. That said for this caliber I am a big fan of a 25m zero on the 200 setting, it puts you 5 inches high at 100, but only 2 inches low at 200, and about 15 inches low at 300 which is very practical, and the other elevation settings will more or less still function. I like to file down the front sight posts so the tip is a "pyramid" (appears as a triangle in sight picture regardless of when you rotate it to raise/lower elevation when zeroing) gives you a super fine point of aim, and really helps getting a good zero at 25m. If people are like me and just like their rifle of this type to be able to hit a steel silhouette aiming center of mass out to about 300, id really recommend trying out this zeroing technique.