Anyone else using ss ball bearings instead of ss pins in their wet tumble?
- Thread starter Ghillbert
- Start date
- Location
- Delta B.C.
LoL you think you overthink stuff... I wonder if all those hard and heavier than brass steel pins do any work hardening? Who knows? But maybe it's one of the reasons they use ceramic balls at Peterson...? I've even been thinking of annealing twice in my process LoL... Cheers
BTW I was only getting about 3 reloads on my 270wsm HOT cartridge before neck splits prior to getting an annealing setup.
BTW I was only getting about 3 reloads on my 270wsm HOT cartridge before neck splits prior to getting an annealing setup.
Hehheh ya some of us are afflicted, so many rabbit holes to go down, I have yet to start in on the headspace and bullet seating depth yet still working on the basics but I know its around the corner for me….
Edit: damnit Jim (star trek) now i have to research ceramic balls
- Location
- Delta B.C.
I helped a buddy out the other day with what turned out to be a head space issue he was having. He works the local Bass Pro gun counter on weekends and is a very good shooter with almost all the tools. A complete Hornady nut. But he didn't have the head space gauge set up. He gave me a couple fire formed cases from his wife's T3 270W and I made him a OACL case for measuring bullet seating then popped over and helped him pull the loads that weren't chambering and using my Hornady case head gauge set, measured up a fire formed case, subtracted .0025, resized and trimmed to spec. Tested the feed and bolt close before loading and we were good to go. It's a simple process that I do every time now. Cheers
Thanks, I have been looking at the comparator set from hornady, is that different from the case head gauge set? Sorry I’m just replying/asking without even googling myself first but trying to figure out what to start with and have read some threads here and still confused as it always gets folks arguing heheh
Guess I’m derailing my own thread here but its all gun talk right? Hehhe
Feel free to pm or reply here, haven’t wanted to start a thread yet as there is so many but still was confused.
- Location
- Delta B.C.
Your the OP. I'm the one guilty of talking about multiple things. But it's your thread to do with as you choose. And yes it's gun talk..
You made me go grab the set to check the label. It's called Lock-N-Load Headspace Comparator Kit. There are multiple brands but they don't function differently to my understanding. The bullet comparator kit requires the use of an OACL case gauge tool and case (preferably fire formed) but using the factory cases from Hornady works fine as well. I used utoobe to learn the processes. Cheers
The bullet comparator kit can also just be used to sort and check base to ogive on each bullet... but that's a walk through the looking glass IMHO.
You made me go grab the set to check the label. It's called Lock-N-Load Headspace Comparator Kit. There are multiple brands but they don't function differently to my understanding. The bullet comparator kit requires the use of an OACL case gauge tool and case (preferably fire formed) but using the factory cases from Hornady works fine as well. I used utoobe to learn the processes. Cheers
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Thanks again, so I watched all 3, seems simple enough. So I take it I use a deprimed fire formed case instead of buying one of theirs, the fact its fire formed will get the best info for that rifle and the neck has spread to release tension so the bullet stays in the barrel ? Hope that’s not confusing hehe
- Location
- Delta B.C.
In regards to making your own fire formed cases for the OACL ( sorry same as OAL ) you can do it with a 5/16" - 36NS tap and some basic skill with a drill and piece of 1x4 in a vise. Drill a hole for the case diameter at head to fit snug, cut the 1x4 from the hole to end to allow the vise to close the wood tighter. Drill out the primer pocket with a 9/32 drill then tap it. Cheers
Edit: oh and use a little Coolcut stick cutting compound ( it's like soft wax in a tube ) for the drilling and tapping. It won't travel onto the wood causing the case to slip like cutting oil.
Edit: oh and use a little Coolcut stick cutting compound ( it's like soft wax in a tube ) for the drilling and tapping. It won't travel onto the wood causing the case to slip like cutting oil.
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- Location
- Delta B.C.
Let me know what you learn please.Hehheh ya some of us are afflicted, so many rabbit holes to go down, I have yet to start in on the headspace and bullet seating depth yet still working on the basics but I know its around the corner for me….
Edit: damnit Jim (star trek) now i have to research ceramic balls
- Location
- Delta B.C.
And here we are back where we started... Cheers and thank you...
What is exactly wrong with ss pins? I've been using them for years and have never had any problem.
For me personally it was just dealing with the magnet and pins going everywhere and some sticking in cases etc, wth the balls its just roll em in, roll em out
Hehe maybe I created a problem to fix
Edit: basically just wanted the same job done with easier use
- Location
- Delta B.C.
Sorry for the derail again.. Just cam across this.. And here I thought I was being original LoL. Though I do cut mine straighter by hand and I sink the case head flush with the wood and use cutting wax. The tap can be purchased on amazon btw and get a couple just in case.. Cheers
Definitely don’t just use these plastic inserts haha
I started to melt it when drilling out a primer pocket for a different project so yes a wood block is best!The other project I posted on here was a barrel cooling fan that I ran some tubing into an empty brass so it could fit directly
Edit: site won’t let me post pics now saying security error anyway its on another thread here about barrel cooling
Definitely don’t just use these plastic inserts haha
The other project I posted on here was a barrel cooling fan that I ran some tubing into an empty brass so it could fit directly
Ok here it is
I switched to laundry detergent as well. I buy the cheap Old Dutch when it was on sale for $3
