Seems there are a number of CGNers with this cool shotgun. Go figure, I originally wanted a Stoeger M3K but couldn't find 'em in stock for the longest while and read too many mixed reviews on the JM Pro. I figured I'd splurged for my b'day and it came down to a VersaMax Tac or Sportsman and a Beretta 1301 Comp. After doing the math, to get the VM tuned up to 3Gun ready, it would cost me a fair chunk over the 1301. In the end, the 1301 won out. 
Here's my upgrades:
Nordic Components +5 kit came in from TacOrd. I also got the barrel clamp but haven't installed it as yet. Still undecided if I want to install it.
Used a 3/8" aluminum rod cut to 12 3/8" (calculated length) for a NC +5 mag tube and used a 3/8N24 die to thread one end of the rod. Used a 1/8"x1" flat aluminum, found the center, scribed the diameter of the NC end cap on it then drilled out the center and tapped it with a 3/8N24. Rounded out the flat piece of AL on the disc sander until it fit in the NC end cap. I test fitted the plug in the shotgun and the stock spring binded up pretty badly and had to unkink parts of the spring. Turns out by tapping/threading it by free hand, the rod was off by a hair from being perfectly perpendicular with the base but easily fixed later.
I then used JB Weld to permanently attach the AL rod to the base. Once hardened, the base was flattened on the disc sander and the open end rounded to a dull point so that it wouldn't catch the mag spring. Using a Dremel, I roughed up the inner finish of the NC end cap then JB Weld the rod assembly to the end cap. The extension tube was carfully screwed onto the end cap and another circular shim with a 3/8" hole drilled through it was used to center the rod to the tube. The whole assembly was left overnight to cure before being tested on the shotgun. All worked 100% and no binding so I placed a dab of epoxy on the end cap threads and screwed it onto the extension tube so that it hopefully can't be considered "easily converted" to more than 5rnds of 3" shells. If that doesn't I can always drill a small hole through the end cap/tube and rivet them together.
I really hated the cheap, hollow sounding butt stock on this shotgun so I decided to fill it with foam. I originally had it all taped up and ready to spray foam (low expanding blue can version of Great Stuff Windows & Doors) but was afraid I might frack it up royally and accidentally crack or bow my stock. I saw one video of a guy who used large plastic tube to accept the expanding foam instead of it blowing out the stock then I saw the spare pieces of plank foam I had kicking around and the lightbulb went on.
I removed the butt pad with a hollow ground Philips screwdriver then removed the butt stock from the receiver using a #13 socket on the bolt securing it.
To remove the inner stock assembly from the butt stock, I removed the rubber cap covering the QD sling mount (yeah, big surprise there 'cause it's not mentioned in the manual) then used a Torx #40 bit to unscrew the QD socket.
I changed out the pitch shim to 65SX (SX for lefties, DX for righties) and slipped it back onto the receiver. Using some old plank foam I had kicking around I roughly shaped it to fit slightly bigger than the crevice and stuffed it into the stock around the bolt stem (lack of technical name).
On the inner stock module, I used a 3/8" aluminum pipe, which is slightly smaller than a 3/8" copper pipe in diameter, to cut a hole through a block of plank foam so the receiver bolt can slip through before inserting it into the empty space above the appropriate cast plate ie 65SX for me. It's a bit tricky trying to get everything all lined up but it's doable.
Reassembled the butt stock by locking in the inner stock module with the QD mount screw then secured the butt stock back onto the receiver with the #13 bolt and washer being careful not to overtighten the nut or bad things would probably happen. Reattached the recoil pad and swapped out the factory IC choke for a Carlson's extended LM choke and she's done, all ready for 3Gun 'cept for installing a Matchsaverz.
Only future mods may be slightly widening/rounding out the loading port area and having the lifter welded.
If anyone installed a Matchsaverz on your 1301, I've love to hear/see how you installed it on the handguard.
Here's my upgrades:
Nordic Components +5 kit came in from TacOrd. I also got the barrel clamp but haven't installed it as yet. Still undecided if I want to install it.
Used a 3/8" aluminum rod cut to 12 3/8" (calculated length) for a NC +5 mag tube and used a 3/8N24 die to thread one end of the rod. Used a 1/8"x1" flat aluminum, found the center, scribed the diameter of the NC end cap on it then drilled out the center and tapped it with a 3/8N24. Rounded out the flat piece of AL on the disc sander until it fit in the NC end cap. I test fitted the plug in the shotgun and the stock spring binded up pretty badly and had to unkink parts of the spring. Turns out by tapping/threading it by free hand, the rod was off by a hair from being perfectly perpendicular with the base but easily fixed later.
I then used JB Weld to permanently attach the AL rod to the base. Once hardened, the base was flattened on the disc sander and the open end rounded to a dull point so that it wouldn't catch the mag spring. Using a Dremel, I roughed up the inner finish of the NC end cap then JB Weld the rod assembly to the end cap. The extension tube was carfully screwed onto the end cap and another circular shim with a 3/8" hole drilled through it was used to center the rod to the tube. The whole assembly was left overnight to cure before being tested on the shotgun. All worked 100% and no binding so I placed a dab of epoxy on the end cap threads and screwed it onto the extension tube so that it hopefully can't be considered "easily converted" to more than 5rnds of 3" shells. If that doesn't I can always drill a small hole through the end cap/tube and rivet them together.
I really hated the cheap, hollow sounding butt stock on this shotgun so I decided to fill it with foam. I originally had it all taped up and ready to spray foam (low expanding blue can version of Great Stuff Windows & Doors) but was afraid I might frack it up royally and accidentally crack or bow my stock. I saw one video of a guy who used large plastic tube to accept the expanding foam instead of it blowing out the stock then I saw the spare pieces of plank foam I had kicking around and the lightbulb went on.
I removed the butt pad with a hollow ground Philips screwdriver then removed the butt stock from the receiver using a #13 socket on the bolt securing it.
To remove the inner stock assembly from the butt stock, I removed the rubber cap covering the QD sling mount (yeah, big surprise there 'cause it's not mentioned in the manual) then used a Torx #40 bit to unscrew the QD socket.
I changed out the pitch shim to 65SX (SX for lefties, DX for righties) and slipped it back onto the receiver. Using some old plank foam I had kicking around I roughly shaped it to fit slightly bigger than the crevice and stuffed it into the stock around the bolt stem (lack of technical name).
On the inner stock module, I used a 3/8" aluminum pipe, which is slightly smaller than a 3/8" copper pipe in diameter, to cut a hole through a block of plank foam so the receiver bolt can slip through before inserting it into the empty space above the appropriate cast plate ie 65SX for me. It's a bit tricky trying to get everything all lined up but it's doable.
Reassembled the butt stock by locking in the inner stock module with the QD mount screw then secured the butt stock back onto the receiver with the #13 bolt and washer being careful not to overtighten the nut or bad things would probably happen. Reattached the recoil pad and swapped out the factory IC choke for a Carlson's extended LM choke and she's done, all ready for 3Gun 'cept for installing a Matchsaverz.
Only future mods may be slightly widening/rounding out the loading port area and having the lifter welded.
If anyone installed a Matchsaverz on your 1301, I've love to hear/see how you installed it on the handguard.
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