Best Lube???

I'm going to go with gun oil. It's more expensive but it should last years. I'm going to buy a variety of them, spend 50$ and have a variety. I'd imagine it would last 30 years lol
What's the 3- purpose solvent/oil top 3 choices and top 3 thickest gun oil options and top 3 best barrel/reciever/action cleaner ( is there a 3 in one for that ?)
 
Ravage said:
I've always used frog lube it works great for me, There are many videos from people comparing rust resistance protection and frog lube is always one of the best in the comparison tests i've seen. The biggest issue with it is most people use it wrong and then complain about it :) Your supposed to heat up the metal then apply frog lube then let it cool down then wipe it all off ! The frog lube that has penetrated the pores in the metal is how it works. Its supposed to be left dry but feels slick from the frog lube in the pores of the metal, Then when it heats up from shooting the frog lube turning liquid that is what provides the lube then when it cools off the frog lube penetrates back into the pores in the metal again.

I've seen videos where people slather it on like peanut butter and leave it on like that, I laughed my butt off at those ones.

I really do like it and it seems to prevent fowling and buildup of crud on parts with frog lube and it easily wipes off to shiny new with really no effort.
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Same here, I love FrogLube. When used correctly it works great.
 
Slavex said:
ands we get the fact that you hold yourself up as a crotchity old man who will argue for the sake of arguing, about things you have no idea about. What of it? Oh and I don't hold myself up as an expert in tactical stuff at all. I get consultation work for teaching people how to shoot, not how to do tactical stuff. Stating an opinion based on factual information, as in, I've actually seen stuff in armories and was told, by those who bought it, how much it cost, is all I've done. But again, you seek to make arguments based on things you have little to no knowledge of, just so that you can up your post count or something. yippy for you.
If people want to waste their money on 5oz bottles of rebranded oil that's up to them, I'm done with this thread.
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Rob you know nothing of what I know and what I don't. I do know writing subjective BS doesn't make it any more informed, it is just subjective BS. If by rebranded it means rebranding bulk oil designed to lubricate metal surfaces like we find in guns than why not? A few bucks for a years supply of gun oil to me makes more sense than buying a litre of motor oil that will clutter up you bench, and contains significant amounts of additives that are not required to lubricate a firearm. As others have said it likely makes little difference which ever route one takes. The costs of oil relative to running a gun frequently is not significant.
To the OP buy the oil your wife or significant other won't care what it smells like....than post it here.

Take Care

Bob
 
Blood and tears... :p

Been using CLP for years, have no complaints or failure/premature wear&tear related to firearms not being properly lubed
 
I use normal OUTERS gun oil lol...and Wilson Combat 1911 lube/oil/light grease...for slide rails and other moving parts, locking lugs, barrel, bushing, etc.

Any quality gun oil will suffice.
 
Recently tried some RAND CLP on frequently used handguns, very nice results I must say and subsequent clean-ups seem much easier too after the initial treatment.
 
Comic Book Guy said:
I don't know if the additives and friction modifiers in engine oil harms the skin or your health if absorbed
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As a licensed red seal mechanic for almost 30 years I can assure you that yes, the additives and detergents in the modern automotive products are harmful and can be absorbed thru the skin, there is a reason it is mandatory at most shops for mechanics to wear nitrile gloves now. A lot of old retired mechanics now have skin problems and health issues from years of unprotected exposure to the newer products. I used to make fun of the rookies wearing gloves to protect their soft lady hands until I ended up with blood poisoning a couple times myself. Some people are more sensitive to it than others, I know of one mechanic who had to find a different line of work after getting blood poisoning several times in one year even while wearing gloves. I also have a friend who developed irritant contact dermatitis that has progressed to allergic contact dermatitis and just using greasy tools now can cause his skin to break out in deep oozimg skin ulcers if he is not careful. So although the machinery may not care about the type of lube it gets and the old addage "any oil is better than no oil" may be true, it may not apply when it comes to the human machine.
 
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Another Ballistol fan boy here. Cleans great and lubricates well and it protects metals, doing a real good jog on blued surfaces and is also good on wood and leather.
Another advantage is that it is apparently non-toxic (though it smells funny). I love the stuff.
 
j_06 said:
Mobil1 synthetic, and wheel bearing grease. 35 ish bucks for for a life time of stuff meant to take WAY more abuse than anything firearms related. Anything with "gun" on is snake oil imo
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The problem with using them is modern automotive lubricants contain detergents and additives that can be absorbed thru the skin causing many different problems including blood poisoning, irritant contact dermatitis and allergic contact dermatitis just to name a couple of the common ones which is why most automotive mechanics are required to wear nitrile gloves. I myself have had blood poising twice and have a friend that developed allergic contact dermatitis and his hands and arms will break out in deep oozing skin ulcers just from using tools that havent been cleaned properly.
 
Shin_Gunto said:
Frog Lube is not a wax, it is made from Coconut Oil.
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I love that you think these things are mutually exclusive.

Waxes are a diverse class of organic compounds that are hydrophobic, malleable solids near ambient temperatures. They include higher alkanes and lipids, typically with melting points above about 40 °C (104 °F), melting to give low viscosity liquids. Waxes are insoluble in water but soluble in organic, nonpolar solvents. Natural waxes of different types are produced by plants and animals and occur in petroleum.
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Does any of that sound familiar in terms of the properties of froglube?

It's an organically-derived olefin paste wax, as some of us have been saying for years. Not surprising that they're using coconut oil as the base.
 
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