Putting either one of those scopes will take the sting
out of the carnage that poor lever has taken. Post up some holey targets when yur dun abews’in’im.
Browning BLR in ROUGH shape.
- Thread starter Restoule
- Start date
Putting either one of those scopes will take the sting
out of the carnage that poor lever has taken. Post up some holey targets when yur dun abews’in’im.
Yea, I'm sad that there are people that treat guns like this. I will for sure post the targets this weekend.Putting either one of those scopes will take the sting
Post up some holey targets when yur dun abews’in’im.
If it shoots, I'm going full steam ahead. It's not like this thing is going to be used over 200yards... I have other rifles for that.
Go to town on that barrel with a drill powered rod and stainless brush. Get all of the crud out of it. Carefully run a mop with RustMort on it and let it sit for a day. Then mop with water to neutralize the RustMort. After that mop dry and run some lacquer thinner or brake cleaner down to get rid of the water. Follow that with a good stainless brushing. That will stop the rust from getting worse or coming back.
Next step will give most the vapours, but give it a shot of Moly paste, then shoot moly coated bullets in there. The moly will help stop the fouling from the rust pits, reduce pressure, and may even help with the groups.
Seen way worse barrels than that come back with the above treatment. Suspect it will do just fine though, other than grabbing a pile of copper.
The rest is hopefully cosmetic, and you can always go to town on that.
R.
Next step will give most the vapours, but give it a shot of Moly paste, then shoot moly coated bullets in there. The moly will help stop the fouling from the rust pits, reduce pressure, and may even help with the groups.
Seen way worse barrels than that come back with the above treatment. Suspect it will do just fine though, other than grabbing a pile of copper.
The rest is hopefully cosmetic, and you can always go to town on that.
R.
Can a Browning BLR be re-barreled?
Alloy Receiver Models: These models have locking seats machined into the barrel. They may require machining into a barrel extension for re-barreling. Some have a pressed in threaded insert that the barrel threads into. Makes for an easy removal... but then the lseats/ug issue?
It's been done, but it isn't easy and therefore isn't cheap.
R.
Alloy Receiver Models: These models have locking seats machined into the barrel. They may require machining into a barrel extension for re-barreling. Some have a pressed in threaded insert that the barrel threads into. Makes for an easy removal... but then the lseats/ug issue?
It's been done, but it isn't easy and therefore isn't cheap.
R.
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Wow 
it is a RUFF po
Not worth spending a dime on . JMHO
it is a RUFF po Not worth spending a dime on . JMHOI never thought of neutralizing the rust. Makes sense, stop it from getting worse.
I will pick up some Rust-mort thank you.
I also have moly coat. May chuck that down the barrel too.
You can rebore barrels, but the drilled and tapped holes for the front and rear sights may poke through if I went that big.
What about a .358 makes a good deer/bear gun over a 7mm-08?
I'm genuinely asking, not being facetious.
Yea, I'm not sure of the process. I've heard a hundred different things regarding the removal of the barrel. If this thing doesn't shoot, I will for sure remove the barrel. And post a detailed explanation of how I did it, and what to look out for as I'm sure there are going to be a ton of issues.
Wouldn't it be cool to save this thing though? Everything other than the rebarrel, would cost me about 2-300$ max. I have all the supplies to cerakote, carbon fiber for the stock, if I choose that route, blueing, and a full machine shop to do anything I need.Wow
The rebarrel would be hopefully a takeoff from some other rifle, modified to fit this too, so not overly expensive. I also have a 7mm-08AI reamer, but I don't like the idea of the sharp shoulder on a repeater.
As far as rebarreling goes, I have not worked on this specific model, but I have rebarreled a steel receiver BLR. Very straightforward. Barrel has to be contoured to work with the forend.
I'm going to assume that the aluminum receiver means that the barrel has a steel extension into which the bolt locks, and the extension is secured to the receiver.
If this is the case, rebarreling it would be akin to fitting a new barrel to a Remington 760 or AR-15. The barrel must be fitted to the barrel extension.
I'm going to assume that the aluminum receiver means that the barrel has a steel extension into which the bolt locks, and the extension is secured to the receiver.
If this is the case, rebarreling it would be akin to fitting a new barrel to a Remington 760 or AR-15. The barrel must be fitted to the barrel extension.
Yea I probably won't use a drill, but I will run a stainless brush through it vigorously. I want to keep whats left of the edges of the lands.
Fluid Film removes rust.
Shake the can vigorously.
Slather that chit on and let it sit for a day or two.
The metal will look like a pawk mark kid, but the rust will be lifted.
I ended up with a few badly stored rifles that were……..yuck.
Browning Trombone rusted shut.
An old 303 in the same condition.
This stuff works amazingly well.
Shake the can vigorously.
Slather that chit on and let it sit for a day or two.
The metal will look like a pawk mark kid, but the rust will be lifted.
I ended up with a few badly stored rifles that were……..yuck.
Browning Trombone rusted shut.
An old 303 in the same condition.
This stuff works amazingly well.
Yup. Really. For really reals.
R.
You’re not brushing with the drill for hours at at a time. Use a brass brush first if you are concerned. The drill method saves a lot of time and creates a bit heat because of the speed. It really helps knock the crud out.
The stainless brush wouldn’t be hard enough to damage anything for that short period of time. The point is to get the barrel absolutely clean. Bare steel clean. Lots of ways to do it.
R.
I Like BLRs and have had 5 -6 and of them now . 243 -308-325- 358 I really. wanted a 7-08 and the Holy Grail 284 Win but they were too expensive at the time I found them .
Any how back to your project - Do as you want as I would too if I was in
with it 
lol 
Electric drill on aluminum rod with bronze brush ! NO SS BRUSHES EVER IN ANY RIFLE BARREL
"I'm not eating more than half of what I paid."
That is what you are doing to keep working on it. You can buy a nice one for $1200 to $1800. There is no possible way for you to have that gun as nice as a $1600 BLR without putting far more than that into it. I am not opposed to a good project, I've been known to spend a LOT of money on fixing up cheap guns, but don't start down that road thinking you will end up with a nice rifle for less than just buying a nice rifle.
That is what you are doing to keep working on it. You can buy a nice one for $1200 to $1800. There is no possible way for you to have that gun as nice as a $1600 BLR without putting far more than that into it. I am not opposed to a good project, I've been known to spend a LOT of money on fixing up cheap guns, but don't start down that road thinking you will end up with a nice rifle for less than just buying a nice rifle.
358 punches a bigger hole. Energy-wise the 358 has more at the muzzle, but the 7mm08 will eclipse it pretty fast due to the relatively poor BCs of 358cal bullets.
Inside 200 yards its a wash, both are gonna kill just fine if you do your part.
