Afraid not. Pulling all of the spacers out from the butt got the LOP down enough for her to comfortably shoot it. I was able to set it up to fit her the same as her Beretta 303 that she normally shoots. It is a heavy beast though.
Browning Recoilless.....
- Thread starter the spank
- Start date
Afraid not. Pulling all of the spacers out from the butt got the LOP down enough for her to comfortably shoot it. I was able to set it up to fit her the same as her Beretta 303 that she normally shoots. It is a heavy beast though.
Blastattack
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Winnipeg MB
Please take a video of it in operation. There doesn't seem to be one posted online that I could find.
the spank
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Planet Earth Wearing My Tinfoil Hat
I found some good instructions online at one point on disassembling this thing:
Subject: Browning Recoilless Question
From: WISGUNNER
Email:
Date: Sat, Oct 22, 2005 - 11:30 PM ET
Website Address:
For those looking for disassembly instructions:
First thing is get yourself a 9/64 allen wrench, as every screw on the thing is that size. Don't ask me why it's american and not metric.
Keep the gun upright (horizontal) until told otherwise!!
MAKE SURE BARREL IS UNCOCKED/UNLOADED
1. Pull the screw out at the mid-point of the rib. One screw, screws into the other. Slide the front portion of the rib off the gun.
2.Look at the right side of the gun where it says "target loads only". Right after the "Y" in "only" is a screw. Remove it. Once you remove the screw the assembly key directly on the other side of the receiver can be poked out. Now that the screw and the assembly key is removed, grab the forearm and slide it of the gun as well, while keeping the gun upright (trigger on bottom).
3. Take the allen wrench and unscrew the bolt handle. Now look at the top of the receiver. Remember the "target loads only" statement on the right? Right about where the "G" is in "target" is a small threaded block (striker sear latch). Screw the bolt handle in it a few turns and pull it out, or at this point you can flip the gun upside down and it will fall out.
4. With the striker sear latch removed, pick the gun up and slowly pull out the barrel and set it aside (don't worry, no parts will go flying). At this point you have it broken down to the point where you can clean the bulk of it. What I've found that really works well is, once you clean out the receiver, spray it with Rem. Dry-Lube with teflon. This stuff leaves no residue and it seems to keep the aaction working quite smooth without collecting crud.
5. I would recommend that you don't pull off the trigger. While I could show you in 1 minute how to put it back together, it would take me about and hour to type it out. It's really not as bad as it sounds. If you really feel the need to do it, here's what to watch out for; When you remove the two screws holding it in, get a good grip on the gun and pull it off as slow as possible. There is a little spring underneath the trigger connector that could go flying. Just go slow.
6. Once you remove the trigger, either draw a picture or take a digital pic of the three pieces still attached to the gun. They are the sear, sear link, and the sear pivot. If you decide to be brave and pull the pins holding them in, just be sure not to lose the spring under the pivot.
7. Assembly is straight forward so I'll buzz through it quick. Just refer to the above steps in reverse for the most part. Before you begin re-assembly you should have the trigger put back together and re-installed on the receiver. The first thing you're going to do is put the barrel back in. The trick to this is the alignment of the barrel and the receiver. Look at the very rear of the barrel and you'll see a little protruding latch (receiver latch release). With the gun horizontal in it's normal position, this has to be on top in the 12 o'clock position. Push the barrel in slowly (without twisting) just an inch or so. Now, put the butt on the floor and point the gun straight up. The reason for this is, if you remember, there was a protruding rod about 4" long way back at the end of the barrel. This has to be aligned with the spring in the buttstock. Since it just dangles there you won't get it to line up correctly if the gun is horizontal. With the gun still vertical, continue pushing in the barrel until it stops. The reason it stops is it is hitting the sear pivot. What you have to do now is pull the trigger to get it to go the rest of the way in. You'll know you have it right when you start to feel the resistance of the spring. Once you hear/feel the spring starting to compress, carefully flip the gun completely around so the muzzle is on the floor and keep going until the barrel locks in place like normal (I put the buttpad under my armpit and use my body weight to compress it, unless your built like the hulk and can #### the barrel with the muzzle pointing in the air).
8. Now your past the crucial part. Put the striker sear latch back in from step 4 and then slide the forearm assembly back on.
9. Re-install the assembly key and screw from step two.
10. Slide the front rib back on and reconnect.
While this whole process looks daunting, I'll bet I could break the whole thing down and re-assemble the gun, including the triggers, in 5 minutes or less. One thing you guys might want to do is remove the ejector. I find the gun easier to work on the line with it removed. This way the hulls just stay in there instead of flipping out.
Subject: Browning Recoilless Question
From: WISGUNNER
Email:
Date: Sat, Oct 22, 2005 - 11:30 PM ET
Website Address:
For those looking for disassembly instructions:
First thing is get yourself a 9/64 allen wrench, as every screw on the thing is that size. Don't ask me why it's american and not metric.
Keep the gun upright (horizontal) until told otherwise!!
MAKE SURE BARREL IS UNCOCKED/UNLOADED
1. Pull the screw out at the mid-point of the rib. One screw, screws into the other. Slide the front portion of the rib off the gun.
2.Look at the right side of the gun where it says "target loads only". Right after the "Y" in "only" is a screw. Remove it. Once you remove the screw the assembly key directly on the other side of the receiver can be poked out. Now that the screw and the assembly key is removed, grab the forearm and slide it of the gun as well, while keeping the gun upright (trigger on bottom).
3. Take the allen wrench and unscrew the bolt handle. Now look at the top of the receiver. Remember the "target loads only" statement on the right? Right about where the "G" is in "target" is a small threaded block (striker sear latch). Screw the bolt handle in it a few turns and pull it out, or at this point you can flip the gun upside down and it will fall out.
4. With the striker sear latch removed, pick the gun up and slowly pull out the barrel and set it aside (don't worry, no parts will go flying). At this point you have it broken down to the point where you can clean the bulk of it. What I've found that really works well is, once you clean out the receiver, spray it with Rem. Dry-Lube with teflon. This stuff leaves no residue and it seems to keep the aaction working quite smooth without collecting crud.
5. I would recommend that you don't pull off the trigger. While I could show you in 1 minute how to put it back together, it would take me about and hour to type it out. It's really not as bad as it sounds. If you really feel the need to do it, here's what to watch out for; When you remove the two screws holding it in, get a good grip on the gun and pull it off as slow as possible. There is a little spring underneath the trigger connector that could go flying. Just go slow.
6. Once you remove the trigger, either draw a picture or take a digital pic of the three pieces still attached to the gun. They are the sear, sear link, and the sear pivot. If you decide to be brave and pull the pins holding them in, just be sure not to lose the spring under the pivot.
7. Assembly is straight forward so I'll buzz through it quick. Just refer to the above steps in reverse for the most part. Before you begin re-assembly you should have the trigger put back together and re-installed on the receiver. The first thing you're going to do is put the barrel back in. The trick to this is the alignment of the barrel and the receiver. Look at the very rear of the barrel and you'll see a little protruding latch (receiver latch release). With the gun horizontal in it's normal position, this has to be on top in the 12 o'clock position. Push the barrel in slowly (without twisting) just an inch or so. Now, put the butt on the floor and point the gun straight up. The reason for this is, if you remember, there was a protruding rod about 4" long way back at the end of the barrel. This has to be aligned with the spring in the buttstock. Since it just dangles there you won't get it to line up correctly if the gun is horizontal. With the gun still vertical, continue pushing in the barrel until it stops. The reason it stops is it is hitting the sear pivot. What you have to do now is pull the trigger to get it to go the rest of the way in. You'll know you have it right when you start to feel the resistance of the spring. Once you hear/feel the spring starting to compress, carefully flip the gun completely around so the muzzle is on the floor and keep going until the barrel locks in place like normal (I put the buttpad under my armpit and use my body weight to compress it, unless your built like the hulk and can #### the barrel with the muzzle pointing in the air).
8. Now your past the crucial part. Put the striker sear latch back in from step 4 and then slide the forearm assembly back on.
9. Re-install the assembly key and screw from step two.
10. Slide the front rib back on and reconnect.
While this whole process looks daunting, I'll bet I could break the whole thing down and re-assemble the gun, including the triggers, in 5 minutes or less. One thing you guys might want to do is remove the ejector. I find the gun easier to work on the line with it removed. This way the hulls just stay in there instead of flipping out.
Remington made a recoilless trap gun in their Model 870 back it the 70's. It was a single shot and worked much like a Model 1100 semi auto as it kicked the hull out of the receiver. Although it reduced recoil, it wasn't very popular, probably because it was so similar to the M1100.
Beretta had a recoilless trap gun about 10 years ago. It was rather pricey and wasn't very popular, at least not at my club in Calgary. Most of them came on the used market very quickly.
Beretta had a recoilless trap gun about 10 years ago. It was rather pricey and wasn't very popular, at least not at my club in Calgary. Most of them came on the used market very quickly.
bdft
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
The 870 Competiton didn't eject the shell. They were single shot and used a gas system similar to the 1100 that moved a weight down the magazine tube to counter recoil. Virtually no recoil but heavier than Hell and oddly balanced. I had one for a while but never could learn to like it. Sold it on CGN to one of the shotgun gurus but I can't remember which one. Someone in northern Alberta I think.
Thanks for correcting me that it didn't eject. I recall trying one back in the 70's but that was a long time ago.
Bill
Total waste of time and money for me to many outside factors involved balance , weight ect involved if they worked as advertised they would still be around. The ones I shot were more like a two by four than a shotgun not a fact only a opinion .My two cents but that's not worth much now days.
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I know where there is another
870 competition trap they were calledNot my words
Made from like 1981 to 1986. It's a single shot trap model 870 with a gas powered recoil reduction system. It's like it has a semi 1100 gas system, but that doesn't operate the action, it just moves some parts around to lengthen the recoil pulse. You don't see them too often, because most people who have them are not letting go.
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the spank
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Planet Earth Wearing My Tinfoil Hat
I know where there is another
Not my words
Made from like 1981 to 1986. It's a single shot trap model 870 with a gas powered recoil reduction system. It's like it has a semi 1100 gas system, but that doesn't operate the action, it just moves some parts around to lengthen the recoil pulse. You don't see them too often, because most people who have them are not letting go.
I can remember seeing them advertised in the Rem catalogue when they were available and thought they were pretty unique. That being said I never had the desire to own one but now with being more recoil sensitive as I age well now they seem kind of appealing! Lol
bdft
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Only 5500 870 Competitions were made and it took 5 years to sell them all, if they did. Most were sold in the states so they aren't many in Canada. They were an answer to a question nobody asked. The barrel was the only difference, everything else was stock 870 Wingmaster.
There was two for sure down here in my small circle . Not sure where the other one ended up
the spank
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Planet Earth Wearing My Tinfoil Hat
bdft;[URL="tel:18657382" said:
Was the felt recoil equivalent to shooting an 1100 or were they a bit softer or harsher?
Anyone here ever own or still own a Ljutic Space Gun with the Dyno-kick recoilless feature?
bdft
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Recoil was probably less than an 1100 but noticeably heavier and only single shot. The magazine tube is blocked by that weight contraption. That's very likely why they didn't sell. Why buy a single shot 1100/870 hybrid when you can buy a lighter 1100 trap and shoot doubles for probably less money. I don't know what the 870 Competition sold for new but I bet it wasn't cheap. That barrel assembly probably weighs twice as much as an 1100 barrel. The adjustable comb wwasn't factory, someone added that before me.
About 600 bucks here no idea if that was the going price at the time or not. Just what my book says I paid for mine
