Calibrating Powder Balance Scale
- Thread starter Wolfgang7
- Start date
Set the pointer on the end of the beam at the Zero mark on the pedestal and weigh a good quality bullet, new from the box
Your beam should have two sliding weights to adjust the weight you want to measure.
Slide them to the appropriate measurement and place the bullet into the little pan that you put the powder in.
You should probably do this with at least ten different bullets as they can vary 2/10 or more grains from bullet to bullet.
If that's all the variation in weight you're getting, the scale is doing its job.
To get the beam pointer on zero, without weight, the scale needs to be on a level surface and by adusting the small screw under the scale pedestal and with the weights on ZERO adjust the height until the pointer is on ZERO
Your beam should have two sliding weights to adjust the weight you want to measure.
Slide them to the appropriate measurement and place the bullet into the little pan that you put the powder in.
You should probably do this with at least ten different bullets as they can vary 2/10 or more grains from bullet to bullet.
If that's all the variation in weight you're getting, the scale is doing its job.
To get the beam pointer on zero, without weight, the scale needs to be on a level surface and by adusting the small screw under the scale pedestal and with the weights on ZERO adjust the height until the pointer is on ZERO
It's a beam balance scale. To my knowledge, none of them came with check weights. It wasn't until digital scales came along that check weights were included.
The way the design is (fixed location for knife edges and fixed notches location on the beam) you can't really recalibrate imo.
On most you can change the weight inside the pan hanger but that is to make sure the needle points to zero with nothing in the pan.
On most you can change the weight inside the pan hanger but that is to make sure the needle points to zero with nothing in the pan.
Check out RCBS "Scale Check Weights" kits.
RCBS page for info on the "Deluxe" weight kit: https://www.rcbs.com/priming-and-powder-charging/weighing-scales/scale-check-weights/16-98993.html
Has everything you need.
I have the RCBS M500 mechanical scale. Inside the pan support is a container to add or remove tiny ball bearing weights, which are used to tune a zero balance if the adjustment level wheel adjustment cannot achieve a zero balance. On mine I never had to add or remove any ball bearings, because it zeros with the adjustment wheel.
RCBS page for info on the "Deluxe" weight kit: https://www.rcbs.com/priming-and-powder-charging/weighing-scales/scale-check-weights/16-98993.html
Has everything you need.
I have the RCBS M500 mechanical scale. Inside the pan support is a container to add or remove tiny ball bearing weights, which are used to tune a zero balance if the adjustment level wheel adjustment cannot achieve a zero balance. On mine I never had to add or remove any ball bearings, because it zeros with the adjustment wheel.
That’s exactly what I do, using 3-4 bullet weights such as 52, 100, 165
Never had any issues
- Location
- Nova Scotia
Check weights are not $$$ And you get the same consistent weight. Every bullet you will need to do an avg, since there are variations between them.
Most digital scales wants you to use a 100 gram weight for calibration. So really that all is you need.
billbmcleod
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Back very close to Bruce County
With a beam balance unless you loose material off the sliding weights it can't go out of calibration. The Zero can change but you have to set it before starting. Also the knife edge can get dirty or damaged. If it is dirty it is easy to clean but if damaged it may be repairable but you might be in for another balance. One point about a balance vs scale. Gravity doesn't change at your loading bench!!!!!!!!!!!
Falconflyer
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
The RCBS 5-10 has an adjustable foot on the pointer end of the base. You put a known weight in the pan and adjust the foot up or down to center the beam pointer.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I have used several - still use a Hornady one - all come with a little screw thread and nuts on right hand side of the beam - allows the pointer to be "calibrated" - also a great thing to get knocked off it's setting without knowing, if you do not know what it does.
Have used so long, do not exactly remember where my process comes from. Empty pan on shelf at eye level - use the screw though the base to get pointer at exactly "0". Then a precisely known check weight into the pan - I use a 55 grain bullet - have used the same one for years. Set the beam weights to 55 grains, set that bullet in the pan, and use those little nuts on right end, in or out as needed, to get the pointer exactly at "0" again. I might be doing it wrong.
EDIT: rest of story - if nuts had to be adjusted, have to go back to empty pan and re-check that empty "0" again - same screw through the base. Again with the nuts and the 55 grain bullet in the pan - re-set to "0" again, if necessary - back and forth to get both times reading "0" - learn to "NOT" brush against those nuts when tickling!!! For me - must read "0" when pan is empty, must also read "0" when weights on beam set at 55 grains and that "test bullet" is in the pan. Do not know if that test bullet is precisely 55 grains, but seems to get that scale to read exactly the same number each time I use it. That bullet also shows as 55.0 grains on the Lyman 1200 DPS 3 machine.
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Beam balances are great, but they can be very slow.
Digital, electronic load cell, scales are much quicker to settle down. This isn't important if you're only loading a box of ammo but if you're anal about powder charges, because it makes a difference to your rifle, then the digital scales really shine.
A lot of people depend on their powder measures when loading large numbers of cartridges, to save time and only weigh every tenth round to make sure the volume in the hopper isn't affecting the charge.
For most cartridges larger than the 223Rem, a tenth of a grain won't make a bit of difference pressure/velocity/accuracy wise.
Beam balances can be extremely accurate, digital scales usually only measure to the nearest tenth of a grain.
I'm anal when it comes to weighing powder charges. I use the measure to throw a charge into the scale pan, put the pan onto the scale and use a manual trickle charger to top up the charge.
Some of the cheaper digital scales will have issues in repeatability, depending on where the charge pan is located on the scale platform. This isn't an issue with beam balances but off level can give an erroneous indication. They're also more susceptible to breezes.
The digital auto chargers are very nice but they are so darned slow.
Maybe the new ones are better?
Digital, electronic load cell, scales are much quicker to settle down. This isn't important if you're only loading a box of ammo but if you're anal about powder charges, because it makes a difference to your rifle, then the digital scales really shine.
A lot of people depend on their powder measures when loading large numbers of cartridges, to save time and only weigh every tenth round to make sure the volume in the hopper isn't affecting the charge.
For most cartridges larger than the 223Rem, a tenth of a grain won't make a bit of difference pressure/velocity/accuracy wise.
Beam balances can be extremely accurate, digital scales usually only measure to the nearest tenth of a grain.
I'm anal when it comes to weighing powder charges. I use the measure to throw a charge into the scale pan, put the pan onto the scale and use a manual trickle charger to top up the charge.
Some of the cheaper digital scales will have issues in repeatability, depending on where the charge pan is located on the scale platform. This isn't an issue with beam balances but off level can give an erroneous indication. They're also more susceptible to breezes.
The digital auto chargers are very nice but they are so darned slow.
Maybe the new ones are better?
A Lyman weight verification kit removes most anxiety from powder measuring concerns.
Every reputable gun shop usually sells one in conjunction with a bullet puller. A guaranteed income producer for every gun shop.
Confession: Bullet pulling. Been there, done that, and my favorite gun shop staff kept their mouth's shut.
Every reputable gun shop usually sells one in conjunction with a bullet puller. A guaranteed income producer for every gun shop.
Confession: Bullet pulling. Been there, done that, and my favorite gun shop staff kept their mouth's shut.
Hey thanks for all the replies !! Yes I have weighed bullets before 115gr. It was pretty close I want to say like 114.6 or something. It slightly varied bullet to bullet. I wasn’t sure if using a check weight that is lighter if it would make a difference. I always level and zero the scale before I use. I see the point mentioned about how you can’t really calibrate them. I just noticed two nuts on the end of the beam thought maybe that had something to do with it.
I think it’s pretty close, it gives me fairly consistent results and is sensitive like I can trickle powder in and it will move with a few flecks of powder etc. Maybe I’ll get a set of those check weights and give them a shot just to see and post back. As mentioned they’re not too pricey.
I think it’s pretty close, it gives me fairly consistent results and is sensitive like I can trickle powder in and it will move with a few flecks of powder etc. Maybe I’ll get a set of those check weights and give them a shot just to see and post back. As mentioned they’re not too pricey.
deadeyes40
CGN Regular
- Location
- nova scotia
My Lyman M5 has a brass weight that when hung on the balance beam increases the capacity by 500 grains. This weight has an actual weight of 260.9 grains that can be used to check the calibration of the scale.
Hey thanks somehow I didn't see this post earlier!! So those nuts are for calibrating good to know!!
That's exactly how I used to reload 223 as well. Trying to keep the loads as consistent as possible
This is what I'm thinking I should pick up. How are the other brands?? I see some for pretty cheap on amazon but not sure if they're as accurate as the Lyman. Anyone have any experience with them??
I use an RCBS 5-0-5.
I wanted to change the pan to a Lyman plastic pan for ease of filling the brass.
I opened the pan holder and adjusted the weight with steel bbs and some cut to length wire. Used an RCBS check weight set to confirm my progress. Also added a small piece of foam so the beam won’t clunk when the pan is lifted. I had also acquired an RCBS 5-10 scale and my 5-0-5 scale reads the same.
Your scale does not really have to be perfect technically as long as you use your scale. ( and keep it clean and it’s consistent )
When you get your check weight set, you can compare your scale at many points and write down the difference.
I just loaded 40 rounds this am. The scale is not my slowest part of my reloading procedure.
I wanted to change the pan to a Lyman plastic pan for ease of filling the brass.
I opened the pan holder and adjusted the weight with steel bbs and some cut to length wire. Used an RCBS check weight set to confirm my progress. Also added a small piece of foam so the beam won’t clunk when the pan is lifted. I had also acquired an RCBS 5-10 scale and my 5-0-5 scale reads the same.
Your scale does not really have to be perfect technically as long as you use your scale. ( and keep it clean and it’s consistent )
When you get your check weight set, you can compare your scale at many points and write down the difference.
I just loaded 40 rounds this am. The scale is not my slowest part of my reloading procedure.
