Calibrating Powder Balance Scale

[Potashminer]

Hey thanks somehow I didn't see this post earlier!! So those nuts are for calibrating good to know!!

As mentioned - I have been doing that procedure so long, I have forgotten where that came from - really hope it was an instruction sheet or I have been making busy work for myself for 40 years. Screw that goes through the foot, and two nuts on that threaded stem on right end of beam - together, they "calibrate" the scale. Plus I feel better having a "check weight" - was and am too cheap to buy "check weight set" with thousands of bullets already here. So I picked one out of five several years ago - all weighed on other scales - to get the "one" that was closest to what the package said - 55 grain - Sierra brand, I think, bought for the 22-250 I used to have - is sort of in the range of weight that I want to weigh powder the most often. I want no weight in pan reading "0", and with 55.0 set on the beam weights, and a 55.0 grain "check weight" in the pan, again I want the pointer at "0". Maybe I am doing it wrong.

I learned that most anything to be measured, weighed, etc. needs to be done with a calibrated tool, or the result is a "make believe number". So, Mitutoyo micrometer comes with a 1.0000" standard - I use that, before measuring something that I want a "real" number. My cheap callipers from NAPA say "accurate to .001" - I have never "calibrated" it - useless that the readout goes to 4 digits - any measurement taken is truly only within .001" of that value. It reads out to "tenths", but can not repeatedly measure that accurately - close the tool every third measurement and "re-zero-ing" by several thou, again - could almost get as dependable results with a tape measure or a ruler... I actually trust my old Craftsman vernier calliper with a magnify glass, more than I do that inexpensive electronic thing. But, is quick to use, and for some purposes, "close enough".

 

[OkayShooter]

This is what I'm thinking I should pick up. How are the other brands?? I see some for pretty cheap on amazon but not sure if they're as accurate as the Lyman. Anyone have any experience with them??

I'm quite sure new Lyman stuff would be the same as you can get off shore or on Amazon. Many just slap their name on it. Like I got a smart weight scale, that is the same as one of the Hornady, but with a bigger price tag. Ohaus makes alot of the beam scale for many reloading companies, same scale, different color or model number.

 

[IvoB]

I would make sure that your balance beam scales sits on a balanced table - I made one using a 12x16 cutting board from Homehardware drilled a machine screw in each corner with an acorn nut with a bubble weight from Princess auto I make sure the cutting board is balanced before I put my scale on it - it's dead on

 

[oldrodder]

It's a beam balance scale. To my knowledge, none of them came with check weights. It wasn't until digital scales came along that check weights were included.

Both my Lyman & RCBS 1010 came with a test weight. A small brass cylinder that stores in a cavity in the adjustment knob.. It has it's exact weight stamped on the side. In my case, 250 grains.

I don't know if other scales had these or not.

 

[bertn]

Both my Lyman & RCBS 1010 came with a test weight. A small brass cylinder that stores in a cavity in the adjustment knob.. It has it's exact weight stamped on the side. In my case, 250 grains.


I don't know if other scales had these or not.

This is not intended to be a test weight but a counter weight to extend the range the scale can weigh.

you'd probably be better off with a check weight in the range you normally weigh.

I have only seen scales made by ohaus (lyman 1010 and rcbs 1010 are made by ohaus) with these counterweights.

 

[Potashminer]

I searched on google for how to calibrate a beam scale. Found an article - using check weight set, the writer found his machine was reading low, and lower as the weight was increased. With the test weights, satisfied himself that the "tenths" and the "grains" were actually accurate - so the error was in the bigger weight on the main part of the beam. He deduced that it was slightly too heavy - readings got worse as the weight was placed further left. He was talking like 0.4 grains error trying to weigh 300 grains or so (I might have those numbers wrong - a very tiny, but reputable error that he could confirm with his test weight set).

His solution was very light file scrapes to that weight - to make it lighter, so it would read correctly. Must be a "nervy" guy to do that - I know I would get heavy handed and get error the other way. He called his process "calibrating". No doubt what he started with was all made to some factory's plus or minus tolerances - he felt he had "refined" it to make it read more accurately than what the factory had settled for. But was all based on a precisely weighed "check set" that he must have believed was perfectly and absolutely accurate.

 

[OkayShooter]

Both my Lyman & RCBS 1010 came with a test weight. A small brass cylinder that stores in a cavity in the adjustment knob.. It has it's exact weight stamped on the side. In my case, 250 grains.
I don't know if other scales had these or not.

My Ohaus 1010 has the same weight, well in my case 500grains and from my researching the RCBS manual. That weight is only for extending the capacity of the scale to over 500 grains. It is meant to hook on the knob by the pointer in your picture.

 

[Bigbubba]

I think we are overthinking the need to calibrate a balance beam scale.
This picture is a perfect example of why.

Is the scale balanced? yes or no?
How good is your sight? Is you scale at eye level or below? (This one appears to be eye level)

Bottom line to me is, I check a few bullets of known weight (that I know are going to be +/- a little from the listed weight)
If the scale is close to "balanced", them I am good to go.

Really it doesn't matter if the scale is off by (say) a grain or a 1/2 gr because if you are following good loading procedures, and starting near minimum, and slowly increasing the charge weight until you get the most accurate load, whatever that charge weight is on YOUR scale is what you want to repeat. It doesn't matter if I dump the powder and it weighs more or less on my scale, because you are using your scale.

I made this little box to keep my 2 scales in, to keep the dust and dirt of off them.
When I load, I put the scale on the top of the box, because that gets it to eye level for me sitting at the bench on my stool.

 

[OkayShooter]

I made this little box to keep my 2 scales in, to keep the dust and dirt of off them.
When I load, I put the scale on the top of the box, because that gets it to eye level for me sitting at the bench on my stool.

I was told just have a good level surface and you're good to go. Currently making a leveling plate to sit mine on. I was thinking of doing the same ( scale in a box ) As for your eyes. Some people use old cell phones, and a tripod, put a magnifier app on it, and zooms onto the pointer.

 

[Potashminer]

I was told just have a good level surface and you're good to go. Currently making a leveling plate to sit mine on. I was thinking of doing the same ( scale in a box ) As for your eyes. Some people use old cell phones, and a tripod, put a magnifier app on it, and zooms onto the pointer.

Not disagreeing about a level platform to set it on, but why would it have an adjusting screw through the foot - on left side of both your scales in the picture - to tip let side up or down - apparently makes some difference, for something? And can get moved and therefore changed?? And what did that affect?

 

[OkayShooter]

Not disagreeing about a level platform to set it on, but why would it have an adjusting screw through the foot - on left side of both your scales in the picture - to tip let side up or down - apparently makes some difference, for something? And can get moved and therefore changed?? And what did that affect?

One axis it might be level. But the other axis might not. Which would cause the beam to tilt, putting some pressure on one side of the knife edge.

I replaced my RCBS ( Ohaus ) 505 because I was having binding issues. I found my bench was higher in the back, than the front.

 

[Potashminer]

One axis it might be level. But the other axis might not. Which would cause the beam to tilt, putting some pressure on one side of the knife edge.

I replaced my RCBS ( Ohaus ) 505 because I was having binding issues. I found my bench was higher in the back, than the front.

Excellent point! I had not thought about that!!! I will now!!!

 

[IvoB]

reading these comments I as feeling the need to wip out my 10-10 and turn up some loads

 

[diopter]

 

[OkayShooter]

Even better..

 

[oldrodder]

My Ohaus 1010 has the same weight, well in my case 500grains and from my researching the RCBS manual. That weight is only for extending the capacity of the scale to over 500 grains. It is meant to hook on the knob by the pointer in your picture.

View attachment 511902

I understand the use of this weight. But why bother to stamp the actual weight on it if not to check calibration? If you check the side of your weight, I doubt that it's actual weight is 500 grs.

 

[iron cat]

It's a beam balance scale. To my knowledge, none of them came with check weights. It wasn't until digital scales came along that check weights were included.

Both of my older Ohaus scales have a calibration weight that came with the, they were built long before digital was a thing .
Cat

 

[OkayShooter]

I understand the use of this weight. But why bother to stamp the actual weight on it if not to check calibration? If you check the side of your weight, I doubt that it's actual weight is 500 grs.

Call up RCBS or Ohaus and ask. They call it an attachment weight. I never looked at my 1010 much

 

[SuperCub]

Hey all. As the title says how do you all calibrate your balance scales?? I have an old Herters balance beam scale. Seems too work great. Just wondering the best way to see how accurate it is!!

I don't worry about how accurate my beam scale is as much as how consistent it is.

Years ago I weighed up a dime, penny, quarter and a looney, kept the change and recorded the weights. As long as you continue to get the same weights, your scale is consistent.

 

[Potashminer]

I don't worry about how accurate my beam scale is as much as how consistent it is.

Years ago I weighed up a dime, penny, quarter and a looney, kept the change and recorded the weights. As long as you continue to get the same weights, your scale is consistent.

I would pretty much go with that - it is a "balance" - want it to be repeatable. In a whole nuther lifetime, I was involved in establishing that a Mettler lab scale was reading absolutely accurately - I forget if it was required to read to .0001 of a gram or to .00001 of a gram, or maybe it was finer than that(?). But for what we were tangled up in, it had to be very precise - and "provable" that it was giving out accurate "real" number for weight. That was a pretty expensive deal - I think the scale was sent to a place in New Jersey (?) and came back with a certificate that was valid for 12 months (?), traced back to a standard at NIST or somewhere like that. Was not anywhere near as simple as plunking on a "test weight" and turning screws - or maybe it was and we just paid a whole crap load of money for them to do so... So, for my own re-loading - I know what worked well the last time - I need this thing to get me to that same place - and I might give that value a number, but the same load on your scale might be a different number - enough to make some heads explode, I suspect...