Can I order a 10/22 barrel from rimfiresports?

Has anybody tried brownells recently? I imported a green mountain barrel from them 2 years ago. I did it all by the book. Import permit from canada and brownells got the export permit for a fee of $35 if I remember correctly. It took a few months, but I got it.

I suspect the reason dealers aren't importing these barrels is because the profit margin isn't worth it. I don't have intimate knowledge of this though, so it's just speculation on my part.
 
Has anybody tried brownells recently? I imported a green mountain barrel from them 2 years ago. I did it all by the book. Import permit from canada and brownells got the export permit for a fee of $35 if I remember correctly. It took a few months, but I got it.

I suspect the reason dealers aren't importing these barrels is because the profit margin isn't worth it. I don't have intimate knowledge of this though, so it's just speculation on my part.
No you're dead on,the hassle of getting them and then guys complaining about the mark up isn't worth it to most places
 
factory bbl

Why not get the factory bbl tuned up? Ruger's barrels are capable of decent accuracy with the right chamber and a decent crown. I recently redid a bbl for a coworker, in a factory plastic stock, and it shot very decent groups. The better groups it shot at 50 yds were right around 1/2", some just under, some over, but very few over 3/4". All this with cheap ammo to boot. It is nice to keep the factory look but still shoot like you spent a great deal more on a bbl. Just my .02.
 
If you want a bull bbl find a Ruger-T barrel here on the EE and get 10mark22 to re-work that, you won't go wrong
Sorry Mark you lost me at "nice to keep the factory look" I personally, as you have seen by my guns, am not huge on the factory look. By the way that Ruger-T should head your way tomorrow.
Kim
P3140019.jpg

New Toy:
P4010001.jpg
 
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It's a Federal 9mm Hydra-shok. It's not staying on there, I'm waiting for the new arrival. It will look like this when done. And anyways your just jealous:dancingbanana::dancingbanana::dancingbanana:
Kim
P3140001.jpg
 
bbl choices

Don't get me wrong, I like the bull bbls as well. I have 4 10/22's that sport bull bbls, 3 GM 16.5" ers, a Whistlepig 18 incher with comp, an 18" stainless GM second, a 17" Boyd's special, an ER Shaw 18" stainless. I have a set of 20" bulls for my 77/22. I have no shortage of bbls, but lately I've been trying to get the most accuracy out of the factory barrels as the rules have changed getting them here. Here is how a factory bbl can look; still messing with the bedding trying to wring some accuracy out of it though. Note; bbl is just blued, lighting in pic makes it look funny.
HPIM0059.jpg
 
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Why not get the factory bbl tuned up? Ruger's barrels are capable of decent accuracy with the right chamber and a decent crown. I recently redid a bbl for a coworker, in a factory plastic stock, and it shot very decent groups. The better groups it shot at 50 yds were right around 1/2", some just under, some over, but very few over 3/4". All this with cheap ammo to boot. It is nice to keep the factory look but still shoot like you spent a great deal more on a bbl. Just my .02.
That's a very interesting post.

The accuracy you are posting is not bad for a re-worked Ruger barrel
(I had, however, VERY different experience regarding those).


A bad crown throws the accuracy away, I agree.

I'm not sure what you mean by the right chamber, and
I cannot imagine what kind of voodoo would work
on a chamber already cut,
unless the factory chamber is cut undersize
or too short (which is not),
but I don't expect you to share your trade secrets here.

Do your tricks work every time, on ANY factory barrel?
The reason I'm asking is because in my experience,
the bore is "bent" a lot of times, although the outer contour
dials reasonably if checked on a lathe, between centers.
Sometimes the bore is so "bent"
that is very visible with the eye
if you look thru the barrel.
I have cut many of those 10/22 barrels
(for shizzles, just to measure)
and I found that sometimes, on some of them
the bore is eccentric
as much as 3/16" (from my memory).
I doubt that there is anything to be done to make
that kind of barrel shoot reasonably.

But, if you feel confident that your method works,
then I'm encouraging you to start doing this in numbers.
A (fairly new) factory barrel sells about $15-20 on the EE.
You can make some serious money, considering
the 10/22 barrel crisis in Canada right now.
 
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I'm not sure what you mean by the right chamber, and I cannot imagine what kind of voodoo would work on a chamber already cut, unless the factory chamber is cut undersize or too short (which is not), but I don't expect you to share your trade secrets here.

My limited understanding (and 10mark22 is free to correct me) is that they set the barrel shoulder back (up to .2") so that the smith can improve the factory chamber. See chart below (stolen from RimfireCentral.com)
--------------------------
Type______Length__Mouth Dia._Throat Dia._Taper @ Throat
Sporting____0.7751"____0.2307"____0.2270"
Bentz______0.6900"____0.2270"____0.2255"_____1.5° Taper
Match _____0.6876"____0.2267"____0.2248"
Win 52-D___0.5800"____0.2278"____0.2248"_____2.0° Taper

The "Ruger" 10/22 factory chamber is the "Sporting" chamber above.
The "Bentz" chamber is the 'match' chamber for semi-autos.
The "Match" chamber is for bolt actions.
The "Win M52-D" is a bolt action target rifle.

.22 Long Rifle Headspace: .0425" GO // .045" NO-GO
------------------------------
Here is my interpretation: Take a barrel with 0.7751 length chamber, cut 0.2" off the receiver end of the barrel, and your chamber is now only 0.5751 long. Insert a Bentz reamer and cut a chamber length of 0.6900". It's not perfect Bentz dimensions, but greatly improved over stock. Note: the V-Block should have the same amount of material removed as the barrel shoulder did just to keep everything koshier.
 
My limited understanding (and 10mark22 is free to correct me) is that they set the barrel shoulder back (up to .2")
forward


Here is my interpretation: Take a barrel with 0.7751 length chamber, cut 0.2" off the receiver end of the barrel, and your chamber is now only 0.5751 long. Insert a Bentz reamer and cut a chamber length of 0.6900". It's not perfect Bentz dimensions, but greatly improved over stock. Note: the V-Block should have the same amount of material removed as the barrel shoulder did just to keep everything koshier.
If you say so.

I almost never discuss gunsmithing in these kind of forums,
BUT:
If you cut from the breech end, the bolt "home" will be set
forward a distance equal with the cut.
If you want to compensate
by cutting the shoulder with the same amount,
then, you also have to compensate
by shimming the upper slope of the V-block,
not by removing material.

Geometricaly and theoreticaly, most of what you say about chamber
would make sense. But there are also angles, taperings
and maybe other things that are different
from factory to bentz chambers.
And of course, I'm yet to see accuracy results.
 
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.920

No luck with the search function. Anyone know if it can come from the US?

If you're looking for a good .920 barrel call Green Mountain in the States and ask for the name of their canadian distributor. last time I checked in with him his prices were around $135 taxes in, ( and maybe also shipping), for a 20" .920 barrel.
Extremely competative with the U.S prices.
 
If you say so.

I almost never discuss gunsmithing in these kind of forums,
BUT:
I won't argue with you - I don't pretend to be a gunsmith.

If you've got good eyes and a good monitor, here is what one vendor (rimfiretechnologies.com) posted as evidence that reworking a factory barrel can pay off (2 shot groups??):
BAR002-2.jpg

Good reviews from customers on rimfirecentral though too.
 
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Barrels

I'm looking into getting a bunch in.
You'd be surprised how many places have turned me down with nothing said other than "we can't".Even when you explain how easy it is to get the export permit.


I ordered a Green mountain .920 barrel from Rimfire in December no problems..

HOWEVER prior to the order I contacted Green Mountain and they gave me the number for the exclusive Canadian distributor for Green Mountain Products. The guy lives in Saskatchewan and his prices are within 20% of U.S prices. If I can remember he wanted $135 shipped for a 20" .920 bull barrel.. I can't find his info but if you call Green Mountain they'll give it to you. When I spoke with him he said he'd have no problem selling to stores in bulk.
 
I'm not a gunsmith either.




Well, what can I say... It's good to know...
I hope that what they say on rimfirecentral
and the 10mark22's method will start a mini sub-industry
in Canada that will somewhat compensate the lack of barrels.

I bet you'll see the price of the factory barrels go up in EE.
Bwhahahahahahaha.......:D
I just got one for free from pimp palinak.
Now he's gonna want money:D
 
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chambering

In my experience, the Ruger barrels seem to have chambers of differing lengths. Some will require removing more material than others to get the same results. Material is removed from the chamber end, then the same amount removed from the shoulder. The chamber is then modified so that the bullet just starts to engage the rifling. A shim must then be fashioned as the v-groove dovetail is further away from the v-block. The man who is the driving force behind Rimfiretechnologies in the US was gracious enough to give me some of his secrets for chambering. I have one of his bbls for my 77/22 and I can attest to his success. The groups in that pic are 5 shots at 25 yds. I don't profess to know everything, but I do know what is working for me. In the Ruger 10/22, if you don't fix the sometimes horrific trigger (I know of one that won't go off with the weight of the rifle), you'll never get any accuracy no matter what you do to the barrel. Later.
 
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