In my experience, the Ruger barrels seem to have chambers of differing lengths. Some will require removing more material than others to get the same results. Material is removed from the chamber end, then the same amount removed from the shoulder. The chamber is then modified so that the bullet just starts to engage the rifling. A shim must then be fashioned as the v-groove dovetail is further away from the v-block. The man who is the driving force behind Rimfiretechnologies in the US was gracious enough to give me some of his secrets for chambering. I have one of his bbls for my 77/22 and I can attest to his success. The groups in that pic are 5 shots at 25 yds. I don't profess to know everything, but I do know what is working for me. In the Ruger 10/22, if you don't fix the sometimes horrific trigger (I know of one that won't go off with the weight of the rifle), you'll never get any accuracy no matter what you do to the barrel. Later.
Good to know.
So, do you care to say the number of the
factory barrels you did?
How many (percentage) were a success?
How many were un-improvable?
Did you find bent bores?
Are you confident enough that your method works
so you can start doing this in numbers for a profit?
(I can't wait to see this happening in Canada).
IF you'll start, are you going to work each customer's barrel
OR work on an exchange basis?
This is just an innocent suggestion,
(I'm not telling anybody what to do):
If you want to do it on an exchange basis,
I guess you have to put everything on a paper
and take a lot of things into consideration
before jumping to buy all the factory barrels floating around in the EE.
Either way, I wish you all the luck.
I am considering in the future
to buy one of these barrels re-worked by you
if you continue to do it.