Cooey 12g 840 model help
- Thread starter BrownR
- Start date
Dark Alley Dan
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Darkest Edmonton
Somewhere out there is someone who teaches the CFSC and needs a hundred dollar break-action gun. Find him. This poor old thing would be right at home being pawed by neophytes.
Those gouges are weird as hell.
Those gouges are weird as hell.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Only one way to find out, strap it down to something and attach a string to the trigger and shoot a few 3” slugs out of it.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
If you go to SAAMI Z299.2, you will see that 2 3/4" and 3" 12 gauge have same maximum average pressure - 11,500 psi. The "proof" load for that service pressure is 19,000 psi minimum and 20,500 maximum. That information is readily available through the Internet at SAAMI home page under "Technical Information". Nobody says that any commercial ammo maker has to load to the nuts, so any random commercial ammo might or might not be close to service MAP, but will not likely be anywhere close to "proof" levels. I am not sure that received or "felt" recoil has much to do with the actual breech pressure developed - perhaps stock fit or shooter's technique might get involved.
I wouldn’t shoot 3” slugs out of it most 840 were full choke maybe just try some 3” buckshot
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Think about how many fixed full choked 12g’s have killed deer with a rifled slug over the average lifetime, I don’t even have a second thought about shooting slugs out of my Cooey. Hell even Challenger says their 2 3/4” mag slugs are safe to shoot out of any choke, they’re a hard cast foster slug.
My own experience shooting these out of a full choke (fixed and screw in) agrees with them.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
Although I have not done as you have in mind, I doubt that I would use my "best vise" - if the gun blows up, it would probably wreck the vise. I had read to lash the thing down to something like a stump or a spare tire - just need good weight to hold it - and have the barrel pointed in safe direction to fire - when you pull the string or twine, you do NOT want the firearm to spin around and point where you do not want it to point, when it fires. Bracing the butt against something solid might not be a good idea - might split the stock doing that - most shooters will "give" a bit under recoil, so a stock does not normally see the full force of the recoil at one instant - perhaps why "lead sleds" are frowned on by some - can be hard on the rifle stock. In my youth, I was using 3" shells in a similar light weight 12 gauge - by far the worst recoil I had ever experienced - did not help that the butt stock was too long for me - I was taking the "kick" on my upper arm, not on my shoulder area - serious black and blue (and purple, and yellow, and damn near every other colour, after a few days).
- Location
- Western Manitoba
I suppose a bit depends on what you think "safe" means. Some think the unit is fine, if it does not blow up when a single commercial load is fired. Some would want to see 25 rounds fired. Some would want to see it hold a "proof" load - to be "in proof" - which means that nothing deformed (that is measurable) when fired with a load that generates a specified amount of pressure. Each of the foregoing would consider it to be "safe", but they would have different standards for how to go about proving to themselves to be able to say, for sure, that it will not blow up on the next round. Generally, most of us would think "safe" means that it will not blow up when it is next fired.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Potashminer has the right idea, strap it down to an old tire or something like that. I’d want to run a box of stout loads through it at the least, if it doesn’t blow up I’d feel pretty safe using it for birdshot. I’ve gotta say shooting 3” shells or anything stout through a light Cooey 84/840 isn’t a ton of fun, unless you enjoy getting beat up and I say this as someone who’s pretty recoil insensitive lol.
- Location
- Western Manitoba
^ is the nature of previously owned stuff - you do not know what "games" have been played with it in the past. As per Wikipedia, the US military sets 54,923 psi as the maximum pressure for their 50 BMG rounds - so like 2.7 times the "proof" pressure for a 12 gauge shotgun - like 4.77 times the "normal" service pressure of a 12 gauge. If that gun did not blow up, it likely will on the next shot. Do not have to use "creative" ammo - just let it rust and corrode - then add a bit of obstruction into the barrel - make the chamber walls or ammo a bit wet - likely can take apart most brands that way.
What kind of rust remover chemicals can be used on the rifle ? Was thinking of letting it do all the work since it’s an awful lot to get rid of by hand with multiple repetitions lol. Does any rust remover work, or is a special kind needed for rifles ?
Like could I use this from CT ?? Metal Rescue Rust Remover Bath, 3.78-L#047-7920-8
Like could I use this from CT ?? Metal Rescue Rust Remover Bath, 3.78-L#047-7920-8
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Any chemical rust remover you use will also remove any bluing as bluing is a form of rust. If you want it down to bare metal fine. Steel wool any oil is what I use when I want to clean them up.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Evaporust would be what I use, it honestly doesn’t take long with steel wool and oil. Brass wheel on a bench grinder works quick as well and won’t remove all the bluing either.
^ If you want to get rid off the corrosion and blueing for that matter, start out with simple high concentrated white vinegar.
Soak a cotton cloth/paper towel and wrap the metal parts you want deblued/derusted for a while, then wipe. Repeat as needed, afterwards, "neutralize" the chemical reaction on the metal surfaces with plenty of water...
Soak a cotton cloth/paper towel and wrap the metal parts you want deblued/derusted for a while, then wipe. Repeat as needed, afterwards, "neutralize" the chemical reaction on the metal surfaces with plenty of water...
