CQBR / Mk18 Mod1 Clone thread - Show us your clones!
- Thread starter Thorvald
- Start date
dsmitherin
CGN Regular
- Location
- GTA/Horseshoe
received print from white_knight.
pen and danish IUR for scale and to keep the poster straight. 100% correct but correct as we can get it legally without photo shopping that are not own picture in and cheaper than buying from US.
Printed on paper that has metallic sheen to it and overall looks awesome. picture is crisp and good substitute to stare at things that are too expensive for me to have. came rolled up in a pretty big tube and i think it measured 17X22. now to find proper frame for it
pen and danish IUR for scale and to keep the poster straight. 100% correct but correct as we can get it legally without photo shopping that are not own picture in and cheaper than buying from US.
Printed on paper that has metallic sheen to it and overall looks awesome. picture is crisp and good substitute to stare at things that are too expensive for me to have. came rolled up in a pretty big tube and i think it measured 17X22. now to find proper frame for it
So i couldnt wait... swapped the barrel on my cqbr for this m4a1 setup
Not sure if i like it as much as the shorty because i am used to grabbing the rail at the very end close to the muzzle and the fsp is a bit in the way, right where my hand naturally goes. I'll see after i actually shoot it.
Not sure if i like it as much as the shorty because i am used to grabbing the rail at the very end close to the muzzle and the fsp is a bit in the way, right where my hand naturally goes. I'll see after i actually shoot it.
- Location
- Richmond, BC
Lol, I swapped a bottle of maple syrup for it. PM inbound for the rest of the story, lol!
On another note,since we canucks can't get a hold of 4p flash hiders,has anyone thought about having some made by a machinist? How complicated would that be? I have zero knowledge about machining so i dont know. Would it be cost prohibitive?
Any cloner/machinist who cares to chime in?
Any cloner/machinist who cares to chime in?
- Location
- Richmond, BC
I was thinking the Vortex 4 prongs sold by Nordic Marksman
Depends on what you define as cost prohibitive. Something like that as a one off is going to be at least a couple of hours of manual machine time at whatever the going rate is in your area. I can't imagine it would be less than $250-$300 when finished unless you can find someone who works for beer money on the side. CNC is much faster, but requires someone make a solid model of the part first and that costs unless you can do it yourself.
Mark
You would just have to start with the correct base material. The flash hider doesn't require any welding or hot work so as long as you spec'd out the proper material you would be GTG.
I believe the original 607, XM moderators and A1/A2 flash suppressors were made from 4130 or 41L30 steel. Most modern day suppressors are made from some type of stainless steel, that is another beast though entirely.
Would love to hear more details if you have them? Pics? Price? Etc
P.m. Me if you prefer
Last edited:
Tarrantula
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- Parts unknown
Interested
I also used the new Geissele Reaction Rod to install the barrel nut and gas block, it worked great!
Now back to waiting for more parts to come in and save for the rest of the toys.
Lets see some more Mk18s all dressed up!
Cheers
Tim
I know the original posts are quite old but as a quick aside, I trust that everyone torques the barrel with the crows foot at 90 degrees to the torque wrench. I see quite a few people that leave it straight which of course changes the length of the torque arm resulting in higher torques than what's indicated on the torque wrench. A torque wrench is calibrated to the center of the socket rotation. PSA complete.
I think this would be an issue if you were up near the limits of torquing down a nut to line up the gas tube hole. (standard barrel nut OR a free float tube) The spec is 30-80 ft lbs, but how many guys reduce the torque value 1/3 when they use anti seize or mil spec grease on the threads? That is more of an issue. For RIS II nuts, using grease/ paste just set the thing to 35 ft lbs and finished setting will be around 47 in actuality. You are still no where near 80 ft lbs even with using the wrench straight.
probably. Many manufacturers use 50 as a standard. 47-50... dont think it will fall off or loosen up.
I think 50 is used so guys dont torque it loose with forward grip. I have seen that happen on course, but who knows what that nut was on at.
