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CC89 said:
Can anyone help with what tools I will need to assemble this thing? This is my first AR / crypto build..

I ordered a leapers ar15 wrench and have a vise & torque screwdriver so far.

I need to buy .... 1/2” torque wrench, nickel anti seize.. punch set

anything else?

Is a Midwest upper receiver rod necessary?
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A reaction rod to hold the barrel and action in the vise to torque. Unless you want to risk bending your receiver in the vise, this is a good option.
What are you using to torque? I use a titan wrench torque adaptor but there's lots of stuff out there that works. Needs to go to 80 ft-lbs max. Depends on your barrel nut and config. Friends with these tools would be handy as sometimes they're a pain to find.

I think the anti-seize is a good call. I had AP-5 moly that I use since I had it around that worked.

What method are you doing your gas block? You may want to look at ways to dimple for set screws.

2 cents.
 
This was my first assembly…..
Punch set
Armour Wrench
Anti seize
Blue thread lock
Screwdrivers
Allen key set
Crescent wrench (worked with my Tna handguard)
Torque wrench (didnt use) can if you want

I needed roll pins because my gas tube to barrel didnt come with a roll pin. Emery cloth to sand the pin a bit for it fit. (Only my issue can happen)

Mini Cordless Rotary Tool- used on mag release because it was to tight.

Can buy these all off amazon. PM me and i can send you links. Also some vids i watched. Super easy to do.
 
Bile said:
A reaction rod to hold the barrel and action in the vise to torque. Unless you want to risk bending your receiver in the vise, this is a good option.
What are you using to torque? I use a titan wrench torque adaptor but there's lots of stuff out there that works. Needs to go to 80 ft-lbs max. Depends on your barrel nut and config. Friends with these tools would be handy as sometimes they're a pain to find.

I think the anti-seize is a good call. I had AP-5 moly that I use since I had it around that worked.

What method are you doing your gas block? You may want to look at ways to dimple for set screws.

2 cents.
Click to expand...
I was gonna goto home depot and get a 20 to 100lbs torque wrench. I think it would fit on the leapers AR wrench to torque it....

As for the barrel I'm going to buy the "Ballistic Advantage 18.6" 5.56 NATO BA Hanson Midlength 1/7 CrMoV w/ Lo Pro, Performance Series" which comes with a fitted low pro gas block. So not sure what i need to do there yet..
 
my build
Ballistic Advantage 18.6" 5.56 NATO BA Hanson Midlength 1/7 CrMoV w/ Lo Pro, Performance Series$359.95SGW
Radian Weapons, Enhanced Black Nitride Bolt Carrier Group, 5.56mm$399.99RDSC
Bravo Company USA, Enhanced Lower Parts Kit, Black (mod 3 Grip)$199.99RDSC
Radian Weapons, Raptor SL Ambi Charging Handle, Slim Line, Black, AR15$159.99RDSC
Bravo Company USA, AR15 Ambidextrous Safety Selector Assembly, Semi
$54.99​
SGW
AR-15 Duty Trigger Tech Single Stage 3lb$169.99TT
Bravo Company USA, Milspec Carbine Buffer Tube Kit$109.99RDSC
Magpul CTR Carbine Stock, MilSpec$94.99RDSC
Super M-LOK Handguard (Easy-Install) 15"
$154.12​
TNA
Ejection Port Dust Cover Kit for AR-15
$17.24​
TNA
Muzzle Device TBD
plus gas tube
https://flic.kr/p/2qLufPF



Light Dremel was needed on both of my lowers. The Mag release would catch due to tight machining. Now it holds with the OEM crypto mags... doesnt matter if you pull down on the mag, it doesnt let go.

https://flic.kr/p/2qLyNCg
 
CC89 said:
I was gonna goto home depot and get a 20 to 100lbs torque wrench. I think it would fit on the leapers AR wrench to torque it....

As for the barrel I'm going to buy the "Ballistic Advantage 18.6" 5.56 NATO BA Hanson Midlength 1/7 CrMoV w/ Lo Pro, Performance Series" which comes with a fitted low pro gas block. So not sure what i need to do there yet..
Click to expand...
All you need is a punch for the roll pin, I bought a set of roll pin punches from Brownels.
It’s doable without them, but they make life a lot easier.
A teeny weeny hammer as well .

Torque specs are from 30 -80 but you can easily do this without the torque wrench .. unless your a Gorilla lol
I’ve used my torque wrench and I’ve tightened them by hand… never an issue.

A reaction rod is the best tool I bought,once in the vice it works awesome.

Some hand guards need to be lined up with the nut(?Aero Precision for example).
 
Tarrantula said:
Just measure the OD of your barrel at the gas block. It will either be 0.625" or 0.750" most likely. Could be 0.875" or 0.936" but I doubt it on a factory barrel.
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It is 0.750" and I had very hard time to take the gas block out, it was tight fitted to the barrel shoulder, now I am waiting for my adjustable gas block and BCM bolt carrier to upgrade my Crypto
 
I must have missed the memo back when I used to assemble AR uppers, I've never used a torque wrench on the barrel nut. Just did it by feel, I'm not saying it's a bad idea to use one but you don't have to if you have some mechanical sense.
 
Newly built Crypto. some parts through RDSC some SGW. Built by and cerakoted by SGW.
BA 18.6 hanson Barrel w/ pinned gas block
Radian enhanced BCG
Ambi charging handle
hyper 60 degree safety
trigger tech ar-15 duty single stage 3lb
enhanced buffer kit
magpul CTR
magpul grip
aero atlas-S hand guard
modified for stanag mags
cerakoted Black Cherry
Primary arms 1-8x PLX LPVO
Reptilia AUS mount

https://flic.kr/p/2qNzKm3
https://flic.kr/p/2qNzKmi
 
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Hey guys, just got mine today and noticed the safety doesnt go back to safe if I dry fire the rifle? When I charge the handle and release the bolt it lets me switch between safe and fire but as soon as I dry fire it I get stuck on fire again. This is my first "Sporting rifle" so im not sure if this is a feature or a bug lol. Does anyone know how to fix this? Thanks!
 
GreenEnsign said:
Hey guys, just got mine today and noticed the safety doesnt go back to safe if I dry fire the rifle? When I charge the handle and release the bolt it lets me switch between safe and fire but as soon as I dry fire it I get stuck on fire again. This is my first "Sporting rifle" so im not sure if this is a feature or a bug lol. Does anyone know how to fix this? Thanks!
Click to expand...

That's exactly how any AR15 (aside from HKs) functions. You can only put it on 'safe' when the hammer is cocked.
 
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