DAC 394 (Sig 228 Clone) Kit

Okay guys, I have a question....

What's the deal with the plastic hammer stop? what role does it play? more specifically, what does the little raised section do???

Is there a way to know if I have it in right? maybe some sort of function check?

I clearanced the hammer in order to install the plastic "hammer stop" but the little bar in the hammer touches the raised section of the plastic on the hammer stop...is this good or bad? Nothing else touches except that little "nub" on the plastic hammer stop

all help/advice is appreciated
 
Yep... they (DLASK) are in the midst of moving their entire operation to another location (think warehouse size full of heavy machines - it's not just a desk and some chairs).

I knew that placing an order for this item on-line would be a "wait and see" experience given the circumstances, so it is acceptable.
 
novega said:
Okay guys, I have a question....

What's the deal with the plastic hammer stop? what role does it play? more specifically, what does the little raised section do???

Is there a way to know if I have it in right? maybe some sort of function check?

I clearanced the hammer in order to install the plastic "hammer stop" but the little bar in the hammer touches the raised section of the plastic on the hammer stop...is this good or bad? Nothing else touches except that little "nub" on the plastic hammer stop

all help/advice is appreciated
Click to expand...

A picture is worth a thousand words. Can you post some pics?
 
Theres a little spring thats supposed to fit into the hammer stop

d_93.jpg


and that bent end of the spring is supposed to sit on top of the little bar on the hammer
 
The hammer stop keeps the hammer from rotating back too far. It also keeps the spring shown above captive in the center of the hammer so it can't slide from side to side. I broke mine in the process of fitting it. The hammer still functions without it but is more difficult to install. Without the stop in place it is possible to thumb the hammer back too far which can cause the sear to not set properly.
 
I thought building a gun would be fun...
I spent 3 hours last night and still not complete...

I've watched this video a thousand times.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NH5KUP9qoaw

First of all, a Dremel comes in handy to open up some of the holes on the frame and make parts fit.

Here is a list of "issues" I'm having with mine:

1. The Take Down Lever is so tight inside the Insert Block. It doesn't even spin.
2. The Insert Block is rubbing on the Slide Take Down Lever. I can't even install the Slide Take Down Lever when the Insert Block is in.
3. The De-cocking Lever rubs tightly against the Frame.
4. I'm still trying to get the Sear, Hammer, Safety Lever and Ejector installed.

At least the slide came fully assembled (slide, barrel, guide rod, spring, and firing pin).

Does anyone want to sell me a completely built lower? or buy my complete upper? or buy my whole kit?

RudeBoyz
 
The only thing more disappointing than spending $200 on one of these things is the fact I bought two of these restricted paperweights!:mad::mad::mad:

The hole for the hammer pivot pin is not where it should be. I assembled it exactly as shown in the armorer DVD, the hammer is stiff as hell and will not go fully foreward. Also, the damn SEAR WILL NOT ENGAGE the hammer.

As someone else mentioned, the hammer will barely clear the hammer stop pin, leaving nearly no room for the hammer stop.

And to think I hesitated to buy an NP-34 when they were available, I've never had an evil Chinese gun be this much of a letdown!

I guess I'll have a crapload of spare parts waiting when CanAm gets the 9mm NP-58s in...I know they'll work.
 
hmm didn't I mention a page or so ago to be careful with the plastic hammer stop/rebound? seems the machining is the same as it was before too. shocker.
 
BigDotGlock said:
The only thing more disappointing than spending $200 on one of these things is the fact I bought two of these restricted paperweights!:mad::mad::mad:

The hole for the hammer pivot pin is not where it should be. I assembled it exactly as shown in the armorer DVD, the hammer is stiff as hell and will not go fully foreward. Also, the damn SEAR WILL NOT ENGAGE the hammer.

As someone else mentioned, the hammer will barely clear the hammer stop pin, leaving nearly no room for the hammer stop.

And to think I hesitated to buy an NP-34 when they were available, I've never had an evil Chinese gun be this much of a letdown!

I guess I'll have a crapload of spare parts waiting when CanAm gets the 9mm NP-58s in...I know they'll work.
Click to expand...

I feel your pain, I'm pretty close to just calling it quits :mad:

I *almost* have it to the point where my double action pull works all the time...single action is still missing. The problem I'm having right now is two fold, #1 The double action pull is VERY VERY heavy and #2 the trigger bar is sliding right off the hammer (probably because the pull is so stiff and allows for the tab on the trigger bar to deflect rightwards)

My de-cocking lever isn't exactly functional either, maybe because like I said earlier, no single action yet...so operating the de-cocking lever right now causes me to rotate the hammer backwards, which in turn causes me to compress the main spring.

I broke a tap off flush in the very last screw hole for the grip (ain't that always the way?) I managed to kinda "re-round" the hole and tapped it for a bigger screw. It's the top, right hand hole.

Anyhow, here's a couple of pictures from earlier. She ain't pretty but she ....."kinda " works :p
img_0938.jpg

img_0936.jpg
 
I spent about 9 or so hours on mine and didnt get anywhere, Broke a couple parts and the rest are in a box.
I'm a quitter. Maybe I'll come back to it later on. I do hope you guys fair better that I did!
 
This is an interesting thread. It's too bad they don't seem to be working out so well.

I have an offer. I'll trade anybody their bare frame for $50 off any handgun in my inventory. I will then give the frame away to anybody who doesn't currently own a handgun but has a valid RPAL and club membership. This will at least get another handgun owner on the books. Just an idea...
 
I stopped keeping track of how much time I spent on it a while ago, but I would guess I'm somewhere around 30 hours. I've gone through a ton of trial and error, but pretty much everything works now. DA/SA is pretty clean. The trigger bar needed quite a bit of work to get it to go far enough forward to engage the safety lever and pull the sear. The safety lever itself also needed some adjustment. The takedown lever is extremely tight right now and won't turn freely. I'm working on it with some 160 grit but it will probably take some time yet. Once I get my replacement slide stop lever and hammer stop (casualties of my impatience and lack of experience), I should be able to put the whole thing together again for one last full function check before re-bluing and posting the photos of the entire process.
From the obvious frustration in some of the posts it sounds like some people bought these expecting only "some assembly required". While it turned out to be more work than I expected I feel I've learned a lot about the workings of this gun; more so than I would have if I only had to put it together. If Dlask ever made a different kind of kit available (maybe a 1911) I wouldn't hesitate to pick one up. It's been a great learning experience.
 
That doesn't make me feel so bad.
I bought one at the start of this whole thing, but haven't been able to pick it up yet owing to Joe's move.
I was growing concerned.

Maybe we need Dlask kit support group nights?

I just love to tinker, and get things right.
 
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