DAC 394 (Sig 228 Clone) Kit

BTW, what's the size on the grip threads?

I believe the ones provided by Dlask were M3-0.5 threads, Sig grip screw are M4-0.7.

I've got some Button head cap screws on order from Fastenal ....
0185297_hr4c.jpg
in M4-0.7x8mm, in Stainless and in plain steel (black oxide finish). I've ordered more than I need, so PM me if you'd like a set.






By the way, are you using the Dlask grips or something else ?? I ordered some Hogue grips and found the the hole positioning differs slightly ..... :rolleyes:

DAC 394 grips lower screw hole is centered in grip hole, but screw boss is off-center.

ScrewBossesoff-center_DACgrips_tn.jpg


Hogue grips lower screw hole is off-center, but the screw boss is centered !

Screwbossescentered_Hoguegrips_tn.jpg


So, I've welded up the lower screw holes and will re-drill them where they should be for my new grips.

Gripscrewholewelded2_tn.jpg


:)
 
Russ at Dlask called today. Started the transfer today! I will be able to pick-up as well. Maybe by the end of the week. :rockOn:

Stand-by for a deluge of NOOB questions. LOL!

@ mp5k: I suspect we will be PMing? LOL.
 
im having trouble fiting the barrel so i could cycle the slide it looks like i should keep filing but my gut tells be to stop and ask questions
 
im having trouble fiting the barrel so i could cycle the slide it looks like i should keep filing but my gut tells be to stop and ask questions


I has to remove a fair bit of material off of the bottom of my barrel ramp to get things working properly. I was pretty nervous at first, but comparing my barrel to a picture of a factory SIG barrel showed a noticeable difference in the barrel ramp size .......

DAC-SIG_barrels.jpg


The first thing I did was smooth that flat surface on the locking block where the barrel ramp rides.....

Barrelramptolockingblockfitting_tn.jpg


Then it was a matter of carefully filing down the barrel ramp ( making sure not to file crooked etc ) and test fitting often. When I was close, I used a felt tip maker to ink both surfaces to see where the contact was etc. To take off the last little bits, I inked up the barrel ramp with the felt tip and then filed off the ink ( this results in removing about a thousands of an inch or so at a time ). I finished up by stoning out the file marks and ended up with a nice fit. :)

As a side note, after I successfully got my slide to cycle I was unable to draw it back far enough to engage the slide locking lever, and it was also very difficult to transition the takedown lever to its horizontal position. The Sig doesn't have a slide stop, so it's the recoil spring that arrests the rearward travel of the slide when the spring coils are fully compressed. To get it where I could engage the slide locking lever, and could operate the takedown lever normally, I ended up cutting 1/2 a coil at a time off of my recoil spring ..... it took 1 1/2 coils till everything operated as it should.

Good luck, and go slow !

:cheers:
 
So I'm up and running!:runaway:

Day one - I flat filled most of the frame. Did the frame relief for the slide locking lever (Thanks for the tip Joe-Boy). Adjusted the Slide lock / Take down spring to proper tension. Dressed parts of (with a file) the locking block and drilled the take down lever hole alignment/ fit with a 9mm drill. I have a hunch that it matters to the positioning of the slotted locking block pin as to how the locking block sits. The screw driver slit goes on the left side of the frame, but I believe the locking block sits better with the flat cuts on the pin towards the back. I haven't lapped the slide frame yet but it slides all the way and the slide locking lever works well. I had to dress the slide slightly to allow clearance of the frame on the slide rounded part just under the barrel hole. The machining for the frame/slide caused this part to rub on the frame (I also dressed inside the frame at the rub point). The slide seemed slightly mis-shapped on the right side prior to file dressing it. I am really happy with my progress today! Day two tomorrow!
 
Funny story. I ordered a Sig Sauer Complete assembly, disassembly, maintenance and care DVD from Ebay a day after I ordered the pistol kit. I'm pretty much done with assembly, just waiting on a replacement hammer stop and reset spring. Well, my DVD arrived yesterday. LMAO!! I might put it up for sale if anyone's interested, I won't be needing it. I has almost forgot I even ordered it.

On another note, I have the slightest bit of movement between the slide and frame when it's locked in. With a snap cap chambered it's tight, but empty there's about 1mm or less of slide movement. Seems like the takedown lever isn't quite tight, or something. Anyone else have this problem? I think I might order a new takedown lever and see if that helps.

Oh and BTW Dlask is the sh*t!!! :rockOn:

I called about getting a new hammer stop and a new reset spring and they said they'd ship 'em off free of charge! :D
 
Day two.

Finished file dressing the frame.
Lapped the slide and frame.
Got the take down lever working great.
Filed the barrel feed ramp and the insert block, but most of the material I took off the barrel feed ramp. I dressed the insert block area well though.
Fitted the trigger and trigger bar. The only issue I have is at full rewards pull the trigger sticks in that position. I will explore the trigger heel / insert block to see if there is a binding point as per JOE-BOY or perhaps the trigger bar is encountering friction with the frame somewhere at the very last part of the pull.
Fitted the de-cocking lever. Still have to remove a bit on material either from the de-cocking bushing or inside the frame for the de-cocking bushing to lay flat.

I fitted the mag release and pins. That worked well. At first I didn't realize that the far side of the mag release is a slide in plate that locks it there. It works well once you realize that there is a dove-tail capture for the plate.

Tapped the grip screws to the Dlask 3mm x .05mm pitch. I dremmeled the round pads (just the part that need removing) so the Dlask grips would sit flush. Sig grips fit the pads correctly but the screw holes are mis-aligned. I don't have Sig grips but this information comes from JOE-BOY.:) It should be noted that the pre-existing holes are slightly too small according to spec. for tapping. I drilled them to 2mm before tapping to 3mm x .05 mm pitch and this worked very well.

I got into the two dreaded areas at the end of my work today. The plastic trigger stop block and spring and the trigger bar! I filed the sides carefully of the plastic trigger stop, so it wasn't tight to the fit, but the 2mm plastic stop block pin, when installed, doesn't allow the trigger and trigger pin to be inserted. The plastic block has the correct radius for the trigger but it pushes the trigger too far forward for the trigger pin line up. I tried to dremmel away some of the plastic in the radius area, but that didn't work so well. I ended up bending the hammer stop block spring and generally made a mess of it on the inside. I do however, have a cosmetically good plastic trigger stop block from the outside, but is is minus the spring. However it IS in one piece. :)
I think it will be okay however. The sear,safety, sear tension spring, and ejecition piece seems rather daunting. I have started to fit the various pieces and did some dressing on the trigger bar and the sear seating on the trigger as per Joe-Boy showing us the radius to reduce material to allow the sear to grab more. I did some filing of the trigger bar for DA action as per the other link that discusses this build as well. I can see the is going to be pretty niggly to get it just right. My prelim test look like DA will work out. The trigger bar just releases the DA slot on the trigger at a position not quite to the point that the sear would engage.

HERE is a PROBLEM I haven't figured out yet. I have a problem of the trigger bar not coming quite far enough forward to push the safety far enough to disengage the seer. Perhaps more tweaking is going to help.:bsFlag:

And here is a problem I need help on.

My slide and barrel will not slide past the normal position. It is not the feed ramp hitting the insert block. The take down lever is in the down position. It's as if the barrel will not disengage the block and the it seems like the barrel lug comes against the fitting block. I can't see exact;y what is happening. Damn old man eyes (well not that old) and is is very dark in there even with a flashlight. There is no movement of the barrel (seperating from the block) but the guide rod will stick out about 1 cm when a push the slide back as far as it will go. This is not very far - perhaps 1 cm past it's normal slide forward position.. It the appears to stop hard as if metal is hitting metal. And I don't know where but I think? It may be the barrel lug hitting and the insert block cross piece?. It should be mentioned that this happens no matter what state of assembly the pistol is at. It happens with the bare minimum of: Slide release/ spring, insert block, take down lever (in the down position), It also happens with the pistol almost entirely assembled. It does not happen when the barrel is NOT installed. I'm hoping it something easy that I am unawre of. But will have to investigate further.

Day three tomorrow!
 
And here is a problem I need help on.

My slide and barrel will not slide past the normal position. It is not the feed ramp hitting the insert block. The take down lever is in the down position. It's as if the barrel will not disengage the block and the it seems like the barrel lug comes against the fitting block. I can't see exact;y what is happening. Damn old man eyes (well not that old) and is is very dark in there even with a flashlight. There is no movement of the barrel (seperating from the block) but the guide rod will stick out about 1 cm when a push the slide back as far as it will go. This is not very far - perhaps 1 cm past it's normal slide forward position.. It the appears to stop hard as if metal is hitting metal. And I don't know where but I think? It may be the barrel lug hitting and the insert block cross piece?.

It WAS the barrel lug hitting the fitting block cross piece. I filled the underside sloped ramp of the fitting block and this allowed the barrel lug and the fitting block to, rather than meet flat surface to flat surface, now meet sloped surface to sloped surface. The barrel now drops down and the slide moves back. BUT it binds up about half way back upon cocking with the slide. I am going to radius the barrel feed ramp backside so it is rounded rather than angular. The actual SIG barrels have a rounded backside on their feed ramps as per the great photo Joe-Boy posted. :)

I'll post again after I've tried this out.
 
It WAS the barrel lug hitting the fitting block cross piece. I filled the underside sloped ramp of the fitting block and this allowed the barrel lug and the fitting block to, rather than meet flat surface to flat surface, now meet sloped surface to sloped surface. The barrel now drops down and the slide moves back. BUT it binds up about half way back upon cocking with the slide. I am going to radius the barrel feed ramp backside so it is rounded rather than angular. The actual SIG barrels have a rounded backside on their feed ramps as per the great photo Joe-Boy posted. :)

I'll post again after I've tried this out.


YES!!!! it was the backside of the barrel feed ramp binding!!! It needed to be radiused! It now cocks great!. Now to work on the DA (trigger bar disengages too soon) and SA (the trigger bar doesn't go forward far enough to operate the safety far enough to disengage the sear).
 
Day three.

I realize that I keep calling the INSERT Block by the wrong name. I have called it the Locking block and the fitting block (must be because it originally wouldn't come back out and was "locked in" and because of all the 'fitting" it has required)

Filed out the frame area where the decocking lever bushing sits using a small file. This worked well.

As I already posted, I file dressed the INSERT block cross piece underside slope so the barrel lug would slide under (as intended) rather than just bump flat metal on metal and not allow the slide to go back.

Slide was binding and I figured out it was the barrel feed ramp binding on the INSERT block. I needed to radius the back side of the barrel feed ramp (like a SIG barrel) so there was enough tip up of the barrel to allow the slide to go all the way back. My guide rod spring compresses completely just past (aft) the point of where the slide sits locked open with the slide lock. I did not have to trim any turns off of the spring.

Did a little bending of the decocking lever. I made the 90 degree bend that extends the tang onto the sear less radiused i.e. sharper. This allowed just a little more length that was required to get to the sear so the decocking would always work.

I got fairly proficient at installing and re-installing and reinstalling the Ejector / Sear / Sear Spring and Safety. I worked a lot on trigger bar SA and DA today. I have filed quite a bit off the part that rests / ramps on the hammer pin in an attempt to have the trigger bar tang engage the hammer longer before slipping out when trying to operate DA. I still have not had any success with DA but I have made a further adjustment but have not reassembled to try out. But SA is working well. So well in fact that just a casing with only a primer (no powder or bullet) gave the most satisfying bang today on the first pull in SA.:rockOn:
It wasn't a real hard strike but it DID strike and it was hard enough. That'll do pig. That'll do.

The slide locks open with the mag inserted and the ejector cycles rounds (manually hand cycling) well. It is very satisfying to be able to unlock the slide release and have the slide go forward with just one handed thumb pressure. :)

Just a little more fiddling with the trigger bar / safety / sear / hammer and it will be off to the range. Once I have it functioning well, it will be a Parkerizing party in my kitchen.

This is such a good project! I look at it like I am taking a limited, novice, gunsmithing pistol course. The cost of the course is $200+.

And here is the best part ~ God Damn! - if they didn't give me a really cool 9mm pistol - FREE!

Today - I also replaced my mother's kitchen sink and faucet, and I got a couple of hours of baseball catch / drills in with my 12 year old son. A good day indeed.
 
There's a blaze of light
In every word
It doesn't matter which you heard
The holy or the broken Hallelujah

Hallelujah, Hallelujah
Hallelujah, Hallelujah


So I have reassembled and have functionality of BOTH SA and DA. Now I will Parkerize.
 
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