Emilio613's CZ858 (and other gun) CAMO PAINT GUIDE!
- Thread starter emilio613
- Start date
I have found the longer you let the paint dry and harden, the better it sands. I don't wet sand, but I suppose you could.... I find wet sanding just makes a huge mess, and the moisture might promote rust due to the lack of gun oil during the painting process (since you had to degrease it to paint it!) - I only suggested wet sanding in the initial phase, so you get a decent smooth finish to work off of/base for the paint. After the paint is down, I don't think I would use wet sanding anymore - but there are no rules really!
So I would just let it sit overnight/at least 4 hours+ and then go at it dry, with whatever grit you find is suitable, but nothing too rough. Only you can be the best judge of what grit to use, dependant on the size/thickness of your drip.
PS How did you get a drip?! Didn't you follow my guide?!
haha just teasing! Happens all the time!
angrysoldier
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- under your bed
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here is a pic of my sks painted with krylon. the paint is now over 4 years old and doing well.
here is a pic of my sks painted with krylon. the paint is now over 4 years old and doing well.
here is a pic of my sks painted with krylon. the paint is now over 4 years old and doing well.
Yup! the stuff is pretty durable if you're not scaling mountains and using your rifle as a pick-axe!
I have found the longer you let the paint dry and harden, the better it sands. I don't wet sand, but I suppose you could.... I find wet sanding just makes a huge mess, and the moisture might promote rust due to the lack of gun oil during the painting process (since you had to degrease it to paint it!) - I only suggested wet sanding in the initial phase, so you get a decent smooth finish to work off of/base for the paint. After the paint is down, I don't think I would use wet sanding anymore - but there are no rules really!
So I would just let it sit overnight/at least 4 hours+ and then go at it dry, with whatever grit you find is suitable, but nothing too rough. Only you can be the best judge of what grit to use, dependant on the size/thickness of your drip.
PS How did you get a drip?! Didn't you follow my guide?!
I'm painting my enfield sporter synthetic stock. The front is ATI and the butt...I have no clue butt what ever material it's made out of it's a beast to get paint to coat nicely. The first initial coat every spray had a run. So I waited sanded added a few more coats and it started to look like something that resembles quality and then it happened. The ATI forend come out flawlessly. The enfield came into my hands sporterized and synthetic. so no i did not destroy a piece of art that is lee enfield no4 mark1
If the paint is having a hard time clinging to the mystery plastic without running may I sugest:
1. Rough it up with some grittier sandpaper (give the paint groove and crannies to get into)
2. smoothen with a wet sand (retains crooves/crannies, but removes the ugly ridges and things that make it gross)
3. PRIMER. a grey car primer will pretty much cling to ANYTHING in the world. Once that is down, you can either sand it lightly or leave it
4. Paint on the primer. Nice gentle, steady coats, from a farther distance, and I promise you won't have runs!
Remember the golden rule of painting: thinner, mistier coats are better than blotches.
Source: years of building plastic car models and having the running paint problem when I was a teen...then having my dad teach me how to paint it properly LOL
So far, mine's holding fine. I shoot the sh!t ammo (corrosive) and use various automotive degreasers/solvents to clean the rifle free of all those salts and crap...and the paint's fine. I noticed a LITTLE bit of paint coming off the grips, but only on the grippy surface I sprayed on. Reason being, the grippy surface has lots of little high points (like checkering) and your hand takes the paint off there pretty quickly..
stands up to wipe-out, Tipton bore solvent (abhorent hell on copper
), M-pro-7, Hoppes copper solvent etc. The only problem is this crap flakes off really bad. I sandlbasted, thoroughly cleaned, then primed before painting and after about 6 months there are 20-30 small chips all over it. And Ive been quite gentle with it. Gently laying it down in the bed of my truck puts a few chips in it. I dont know how it clings to plastic or old paint however, maybe thats a different story.***** WOOPS! Sorry guys, I cleaned out my online photo account, and I think I deleted the photos in this post...
OK, so I thought I would be nice... since you guys seem to enjoy this tutorial, I did a stock today, so I took pics throughout the process (yesterday and today).`
Enjoy!!!
Exhibit A: The stock I received with another rifle. It was already camo, but I didn't really like it. Sure, it works, but its not the style I do, and...well being the egoist that I am, it has to be MY camo pattern! Do you like my carpet? It matches the drapes.. haha
Exhibit B: ***Notice how I was lazy and just masked the rubber butt pad? Be a real man --> take out the two screws and remove the pad. makes life easier! ***
Step one is to rough up the stock! ARGH! Take that, you filthy beast!.... Ok, so I sanded with 120 grit, then went over with the 400 wet sand paper (I did it DRY though, since I didn't want perfectly smooth)
Now its time to Wishy Washy! "At the car wash, yea....." Put on some rubber gloves if you're a pu$$y like me, and then get in there with a brush and dishwashing soap. Get it nice and clean. Just lean it in the bathtub or on the patio deck to dry off properly...use a hair dryer if you wish, after its all dripped off.
Exhibit C: Now it's primered. Not much to say. I thought I'd give this stock a primer, since it is plastic and needed a good base for the Krylon to stick to. As I said before, Primer sticks to anything pretty much LOL.
Exhibit D: First coat of Tan/Sand colour. Ok let it dry, maybe 1 more coat. just so that the primer is covered and its solid. You should be able to judge it!
Exhibit E: The fun begins! There's a stock underneath all that bush... she'll be a ###y beast, I promise! ***Each stage looks identical, just different colours***
FINALLY DONE! There she is. This stock is now for sale! I need the $$ for something else!
So someone BUY THIS STOCK NOW! $50 and its yours! (I will do a semi-gloss clearcoat for an extra $5)
Or go at it and go paint yours!!!! **Clearcoat is optional, and I didn't do it on this stock, but it can be added***
OK, so I thought I would be nice... since you guys seem to enjoy this tutorial, I did a stock today, so I took pics throughout the process (yesterday and today).`
Enjoy!!!
Exhibit A: The stock I received with another rifle. It was already camo, but I didn't really like it. Sure, it works, but its not the style I do, and...well being the egoist that I am, it has to be MY camo pattern! Do you like my carpet? It matches the drapes..
haha
Exhibit B: ***Notice how I was lazy and just masked the rubber butt pad? Be a real man --> take out the two screws and remove the pad. makes life easier! ***
Step one is to rough up the stock! ARGH! Take that, you filthy beast!.... Ok, so I sanded with 120 grit, then went over with the 400 wet sand paper (I did it DRY though, since I didn't want perfectly smooth)
Now its time to Wishy Washy! "At the car wash, yea....." Put on some rubber gloves if you're a pu$$y like me, and then get in there with a brush and dishwashing soap. Get it nice and clean. Just lean it in the bathtub or on the patio deck to dry off properly...use a hair dryer if you wish, after its all dripped off.
Exhibit C: Now it's primered. Not much to say. I thought I'd give this stock a primer, since it is plastic and needed a good base for the Krylon to stick to. As I said before, Primer sticks to anything pretty much LOL.
Exhibit D: First coat of Tan/Sand colour. Ok let it dry, maybe 1 more coat. just so that the primer is covered and its solid. You should be able to judge it!
Exhibit E: The fun begins! There's a stock underneath all that bush... she'll be a ###y beast, I promise! ***Each stage looks identical, just different colours***
FINALLY DONE! There she is. This stock is now for sale! I need the $$ for something else!
So someone BUY THIS STOCK NOW! $50 and its yours! (I will do a semi-gloss clearcoat for an extra $5)
Or go at it and go paint yours!!!! **Clearcoat is optional, and I didn't do it on this stock, but it can be added***
Last edited:
JDCSigP226
CGN Regular
- Location
- Halifax, Nova Scotia
Nice work guys!
D3TH_OVRH3D
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- SE Ontario
Unbelievable camo jobs! I may do this just on the factory furniture and see how it looks against the dark reciever. Thanks for the great write-up!
No worries! Have fun! (and do it outdoors... I don't want to be responsible for huffed up, paint fume stoned CGN members!)
No worries, hope I made relatively clear enough. If you have any concerns, feel free to PM me, or just comment in here (as it may benefit others with a similar question).
Good luck and be patient!
The Son Of Sam
Member
- Location
- Halmilton Ontario
Thatz kool!
I'm going to due this to my sks tapco stock when I buy it next pay check.
I'm going to due this to my sks tapco stock when I buy it next pay check.
brentRnelson
Regular
- Location
- Fraser Valley
How does the Krylon hold up to the heat? Do you have to reapply paint often? Does it smudge when handguards are warmed up?
To address these issues:
1. Heat: Seems to be doing fine. I haven't seen any problems, but then again, i am not shooting a 1200rpm machinegun LOL. At a rate of normal fire, semi auto, canadian mags, the paint is fine.
2. I have not touched the paint to date. Looks ALMOST as good as it was, aside from places I hit it against something shape (but most factory finishes chip when hit as well, which I can attest to if you look at my other guns!)
3) The paint does NOT smudge, BUT it does rub off faster on the little ridges in the "stone effect". (So anywhere its raised, your hands with rub that off faster, but that is because the surface area of those points is very small, so lots of friction. Flat surfaces seem to be doing a lot better)
brentRnelson
Regular
- Location
- Fraser Valley
Thanks for the reply. I did Krylon and Matte Protect my 10/22 stock and it worked well (no real heat touching it though). Good point about the 5 round mags. As long as I didnt nick or scratch it against some rock or another firearm it stood up find. I'll most likely just paint the furniture on my 858.
