HU: Norinco '.22 KKW Trainer' (now with pics)

The reason I asked how many tacs it reveals after it's taken off
is because I suspect that there could be a second tack (green area)
that was intended to be milled flush with the rest of the base.

tu_zp.jpg




Your sight (above) is more suggestive than mine:

tu_jw25_2-1.jpg
 
Last edited:
10x Thanks for your suggestions.
I am not going into a debate over some theoretical approach.
I had a look at the second gun I bought,
it seems the sight might have the same problem
as some people here have with theirs
(side posts on the site are not aligned), although
the gun is greasy and I could not say that with certitude.
When I will decide to fix it, I will choose the method.

QUOTE]

It isn't theory if its been done and works. I have "tuned" the rear sights on four of these rifles because of the posts not being in the same plane.
Some of the JW15s also had a similar issue with the rear sight. I've seen more out of the box with tilted rear sights than I've seen with rear sights that were acceptable.
And you are welcome to use the method you feel confident that will give you the results you want.

BTW: a red dot works well on these.
and I'm contemplating taking a flat bottom one piece scope bace. milling one end so it will slide between the mounting ears on the rear sight ramp, drilling a hole in the bace for a pin, and using this to mount a pistol scope on the rear sight bace. Initial elevation can be set with an 8x40 screw tapped into the scope bace and resting on the back of the sight bace.
I've built a couple of scope baces for M-98s that mount this way and they seem to work well.
 
Update on mine.

My rear sight appears to be level at all the settings. It does tend to "settle" a few millimeters to the left but I can centre the sight by pushing on it so I stuffed 15 thou worth of steel shimming material behind the left ladder sight pin. Its now centred and that shimming material is not coming out easily (it needed to go in with a brass drift) - at least as long as I don't lift the ladder very often.

Looking down the sight, I'm thinking now that my blade is vertical, not off centre as I thought. When I put the hood on it looks a little out of whack. I think its just the hood doesn't centre over the blade. I can see that it doesn't sit perfectly in its slot and might need some minor fitting.

I'm a fiddler by nature so I think the rifle is still a steal at $99. I know some people are not so enthusiastic about "fixing" a rifle, especially a NEW rifle. With my sights straightened, time to go back to the range and see if things are improving.
 
and I'm contemplating taking a flat bottom one piece scope bace. milling one end so it will slide between the mounting ears on the rear sight ramp, drilling a hole in the bace for a pin, and using this to mount a pistol scope on the rear sight bace. Initial elevation can be set with an 8x40 screw tapped into the scope bace and resting on the back of the sight bace.
I've built a couple of scope baces for M-98s that mount this way and they seem to work well.

Or you could just buy the Yugo scout mount like I suggested.
ww w.gunaccessories.com

The rear sight base spring is replaced by a winged nut that slides under the rail. A screw goes through the base and attaches. Two screws go through each side of the rear sight bases holes that normally would hold the rear sight pivot pin. Initial elevation is established by an allen screw.

Also, since there are already tapped holes on the side of the receiver, you could buy a standard rail mount and drill holes to match the ones already drilled. Then just buy a standard side-mount scope mount and attach. Easy. Perhaps some minor inletting of the stock.
 
Last edited:
Or you could just buy the Yugo scout mount like I suggested.
ww w.gunaccessories.com

The rear sight base spring is replaced by a winged nut that slides under the rail. A screw goes through the base and attaches. Two screws go through each side of the rear sight bases holes that normally would hold the rear sight pivot pin. Initial elevation is established by an allen screw.

Also, since there are already tapped holes on the side of the receiver, you could buy a standard rail mount and drill holes to match the ones already drilled. Then just buy a standard side-mount scope mount and attach. Easy. Perhaps some minor inletting of the stock.

The Yugo scout mount is $79.95. I think I can make one in less than half an hour for less than ten bucks.
And I do have a number of spare side mount baces and rings. That is a less desireabl option than the scout type scope mount with either a red dot or compact scope.
 
The Yugo scout mount is $79.95. I think I can make one in less than half an hour for less than ten bucks.
And I do have a number of spare side mount baces and rings. That is a less desireabl option than the scout type scope mount with either a red dot or compact scope.

Yeah it's expensive. Why would the side mount be less desireable?
 
Yeah it's expensive. Why would the side mount be less desireable?

Matter of my personal taste. I like the looks of a forward mounted scope on one of these guns, not to mention the bolt requires that a scope be mounted higher so the bolt will clear it. Or have the scope mounted in front of where the bolt swings up. Other folks may like the rear mount...
 
can you reload them only by the magazine or you can reload by putting round like a real 98k?

"sorry if its arealy said im too lazy to read 15 pages ;D *

You can load this rifle by loading between 1 and 5 rounds in the mag, inserting it and cycling the bolt, or you can place a round on top of the empty mag and push the bolt forward. Doing it this way the round will feed but you can't just toss the round in, if you do this the bolt will likely not close because the round will get jammed against the barrel to the side of the chamber. It's definately doable ( i did it half a dozen times in a row with no problems on saturday at the range) but it's no where as easy as on my 30-06 where all i have to do is toss a round in and slam the bolt shut.
 
Mine arrived today. Rear sight off line to the left and the front one looks a little wonky too. Glad I've been reading this thread as I was not particularly surprised. Will play with it to the extent of my very limited handyman abilities and probably do some sanding/oiling of the stock as well. At least it doesn't seep cosmoline like the M-305 soft stocks :)
 
Bunch of light firing pin hits even after I'd boiled the bolt and squirted anti gunk stuff up it. Guess I'll be taking the bolt apart tonight.
 
Are the Brno #4 mags the only ones that fit or do the #1 mags fit the Norinco as well?

I took mine out yesterday and it's shooting straight but 5inches low at 25M. I may try filing down the ramp to bring it up.
 
Last edited:
Are the Brno #4 mags the only ones that fit or do the #1 mags fit the Norinco as well?

I took mine out yesterday and it's shooting straight but 5inches low at 25M. I may try filing down the ramp to bring it up.

File down the front sight, or replace the front sight with a lower (shorter) one
Filing down the ramp will make it shoot lower yet.
 
I wished more people who shot their guns would come and post their results.
So after 155 posts and 5300 views, nobody can posts a pic of what scope solution they used, huh?

And other than "cosmoline, weak spring, sight off, shoots low, blahblah", we are unable to know how well it shoots.
2-1/2" or 4" groups @ 50yds., or shotgun pattern, or what?:confused:

Mine is still in pieces, but I started working on it.
Not only filing the burrs but some other things as well.
I still didn't find see-thru rings, I believe I have to build my own base:(
 
I shot a balloon at 100 yards with her yesterday. I guess that's about an 8" diameter... so well within that. It was so foggy I could only barely see the balloon I posted at 100 yards.
 
I wished more people who shot their guns would come and post their results.
So after 155 posts and 5300 views, nobody can posts a pic of what scope solution they used, huh?

And other than "cosmoline, weak spring, sight off, shoots low, blahblah", we are unable to know how well it shoots.
2-1/2" or 4" groups @ 50yds., or shotgun pattern, or what?:confused:

Mine is still in pieces, but I started working on it.
Not only filing the burrs but some other things as well.
I still didn't find see-thru rings, I believe I have to build my own base:(

You can put a Weaver 48202 T010 base on the 3/8 dovetail that converts it to the 5/8 Weaver base. That will give you more options for see through rings.
I mounted a 1.5 power polytech scope on my rifle but there is a great deal of paralax in this scope. Groups with the scope are not as good as groups at open sights at the short range I tested it at. I will try at twenty five and fifty meters when the snow melts.
The JW25A I bought years ago will shoot under two inch groups at fifty metres with subsonic target .22 ammo. High velocity ammo will open the groups up to six inches or larger with this specific rifle. The two inch group at fifty meters may have been a function of paralax in the scope I was using as well and weather conditions -it was cold and windy.

The weaver rings and bases chart can be found here
http ://glarp.atk.com/2005Catalogs/pdfs/weaver_2005_catalog.pdf
 
Here's my JW25A with a scope mounted. As you can see the rear scope mount is barely hanging onto the rail. The bolt does rub the rubber eye piece a little.


 
Nice, cambli.

As I thought and many people mentioned it,
it's marginaly next to a pain in the butt.

You can put a Weaver 48202 T010 base on the 3/8 dovetail that converts it to the 5/8 Weaver base. The weaver rings and bases chart can be found here
http ://glarp.atk.com/2005Catalogs/pdfs/weaver_2005_catalog.pdf
Note that it is about the SIDE rail. 10 mm is about 3/8.
Let's say it fits. After that you have to get the side mount and you have to solve the issue of the scope offset from the barrel axis.
The top rail on the Norincho is .460" or so (that is 11.7 mm) and that is a rarely found rail dimension, how I said in another post.

Man o man! Back to work.
 
Back
Top Bottom