Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!

Baribal said:
Happy New Year sthorvictor

Before being able to answer your question as of what "model" it is, I need to know what the left side of the action says. Then, I need to know the serial number range and the sling swivel size (1" or 3/4"?)...
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Sorry for the late response, was out of the country for the last ten days or so. The barrel says; .270 WIN Nitro. Serial number; 381###. Action/reciever; Husqvarna Vapenfabriks A B - Sweden, no other markings found. The sling swivel size is 1". thanks again! sorry the pics in the link don't have a clear pic of the stampings.
 
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sthorvictor said:
Sorry for the late response, was out of the country for the last ten days or so. The barrel says; .270 WIN Nitro. Serial number; 381###. Action/reciever; Husqvarna Vapenfabriks A B - Sweden, no other markings found. The sling swivel size is 1". thanks again! sorry the pics in the link don't have a clear pic of the stampings.
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No worries. Your rifle is a 8000, and was made at FFV with the leftover parts from the HVA factory, so here's a copy of what I already posted here;

The 8000/9000 models are only found within S/N range of 350000 and 380000, and have 1" sling swivel loops, the Euro models having 3/4" swivel loops, the last of the "real" HVA was around 378607 until FFV got rid of the HVA stamped receivers, then they stamped FFV or FFV-HVA, then, FFV changed the names to Standard, Monte Carlo, Lyx and Sportskyttestudsare. HVA used 1970 name in Europe (see below).
Also, as per 8000 and 9000 were Tradewinds names, they are often stamped "9000" or "Tradewinds, Inc. Tacoma, Washington-USA, Husqvarna Vapenfabriks AB Sweden" and other variants. Below is a reopst that explains the links betweens models and production dates.

In Sweden, for the same period, they are known as being "1970" - "Standard", "Standard MC" "MC Lyx", '"Sportskyttestudsare"... it quite followed normal HVA denomination.
SN +/- 350 000 to 378 607
+/- 28 607 rifles made from 1967 to 1970

For the "3" serial (HVA) (1967-1969)

Standard = none
Standard MC = none (plain forend)
MC Lyx = 9000 (high grade stock)
MC Special = 8000 (rosewood forend)

Hoipe that helps,
 
This is a shotgun question, but since Baribal lives here...

Regarding the Husqvarna 310/1310/etc, would you know if the stocks cast off or are they neutral? Do you know where I can find some specs?
 
Reloading question for the HVA 640 FN 98 in 8x57. For those that shoot these, in the 170-200 grain bullet range, which brand and type of bullet do you recommend? I was thinking of Hornady SST 170 gr, Nosler 180 gr Accubond or Ballistic Tip. Any experience on game animals from deer, black bear, and moose?
 
northern skies said:
This is a shotgun question, but since Baribal lives here...

Regarding the Husqvarna 310/1310/etc, would you know if the stocks cast off or are they neutral? Do you know where I can find some specs?
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Most are neutral, but since what you are looking at likely comes directly from Sweden, it also might have been fitted to a shooter in the days, as per the HVA custom shop was readily available for them.
 
mosinmaster said:
Reloading question for the HVA 640 FN 98 in 8x57. For those that shoot these, in the 170-200 grain bullet range, which brand and type of bullet do you recommend? I was thinking of Hornady SST 170 gr, Nosler 180 gr Accubond or Ballistic Tip. Any experience on game animals from deer, black bear, and moose?
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I use quite a bit of Accubond on big games. I much prefer them over the Ballisctic Tip. I didn't try the 8mm SST, though, but I prefer the Interbond (but it's not available in 8mm) over the SST which is quite similar to the BT and I go with the heavier bullets over the 170 grainer. My buddy shot a couple of black bears with the Sellier $& Bellot Ammo using the SPCE bullets and I honestly, I was amazed to see the devastating results, every bear falling in it's tracks with a heart / lung shot...
 
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Just arrived the other day, FN98 in 30-06. Any recommendations on how to fix a slight crack behind the tang.

PXIX4Uo


PXIX4Uo
 
You will find plenty of videos on Youtube to see how to do. Then, you problably have to check the rear action screw and tube and maybe proceed to a good bedding of the actions
 
Crack has been fixed. I am planning to bed the action, but whether I attempt this myself or take it to a smith I am unsure yet. What should I be looking for while checking the rear action screw and tube?
 
pop91 said:
Crack has been fixed. I am planning to bed the action, but whether I attempt this myself or take it to a smith I am unsure yet. What should I be looking for while checking the rear action screw and tube?
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The action screw should slide freely in the tube. The rear of the tang should be free of contact. The tube must be of the correct lenght, means it must act as a space between the floorplate ant the bottom of the tang. If you want more info, maybe should you post this in the gusmithing section.
 
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Rifle is back and bedded with a cross bolt installed. Ordered a leather sling from trade ex only to find out it doesn’t fit on the factory swivels. Does anyone have any recommendation as how to proceed?
 
What's the swivel size ? There are only two sizes, 3/4" for Euro models (which yours likely is) and 1" for original N-A imports...
 
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