Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!

Baribal said:
As I said, I like to share with others. 20 years ago, the information on these firearms was almost inexistent in North America and what was availlable was either too partial or wrong.

Regarding moose hunting; I don't know, will depend on hollyday schedule, and I'd like to bring the daughter and introduce her to Mr Moose hunting... Don't know yet how it's going to work.
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From our previous dialogue, I have no doubt, she'll do fine:). As a 'Dad' the only thing you'll really have to worry about is, that as with my Daughters results, it may surpass anything we've been able to achieve. And that's not a bad thing. Here's what I mean. In the middle of the bald prairie, far from any trees, where Moose shouldn't be 'living';), my Daughter got her first Moose, on draw, 51".

Erikaher2008Moose.jpg
 
Johnn,
For now, I'm watchin' the young coyotes turning around (can't hunt them, but will "chase" them!:D)... She's not yet an accomplished woman like your daughter.

Dime,
No, there's no relation between these numbers. There should not have many stampings on the receiver too. Some only show the Crowned "H" and NITRO and the Rockwell hardness testing "dot" (also found on the bolt lugs) - all the stamping close to the recoil lug. You should have the S/N and Nitro Proofing on the left side of the barrel and HVA trademark with caliber on top.
There are many letters and numbers wich are found here and there on the stock, at strategic places, though. Some have numbers electro-penciled here and there, but it's not factory-made.

The 1640 proof stamping is as below;
P1010044.jpg


The FN made receivers have different stampings wich includes a number, and they have more than on the 1640, though, like this one;

M648FNProofmarks.jpg


Are you 100% sure it's a 1640 and not a FN M/98?

A picture and / or the place the stamping is would help positive ID (but if it's a letter and or a number, then, it's a "view mark" or "fitter's mark"
 
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I initially had the idea of using my new (to me) 1640 for long range bench shooting, as well as hunting. Of course, we all know no such dual purpose rifles (and scopes) really exist! But it would be fun if they did :D

Anyway, I took it to the range last week with a couple of boxes of core-lokt factory ammo and quickly discovered that the barrel is not intended for repeated bench shooting. It went extremely hot at the end of the first box and there was no rapid firring or anything like that involved.

Just wanted to make sure that my observation is correct. Aside from being pretty, this Swedish girl seems to be very delicate. She is no M96.
 
Well,
The HVA barrels were hammere-forged (one of the first to successfully do so) and most of the time shoot very well, but their profiles are not really suitable to target shooting, unless it's a varmint/target version of the 1900 model. Any rifle with a thiny barrel will overheat under repeated firing.
Also, these actions were not designed to be target actions, and for such, you'll be better served with a modern made action (more recent in highly alloyed steel).
 
Thank you Baribal. I am going to take your advise and use a modern action rifle for my up coming long-range 6.5x55 rig.

I saw your comments on an old thread on CGN. There, you suggested that the best value in modern factory rifles in this cartridge, for a long-range rig was a T3, closely followed by CZ 550. Any changes in your opinion? Hope I am not off the topic here.
 
Thanks, CG, I'll try to answer from the best of my knowledge.

Home3,

No, my opinion did not change. I still shoot quite a lot with my own Tikka T3 Varmint and it still shoots almost as good as it first did. But for very long range (above 500m, i'd say), I'd suggest a longer barrel than 24" (up to 30"). Then, you will need a custom rifle. If on a budget, my first pick would be a Savage action fitted with a long 6.5 barrel. But this is off-topic, I guess.
 
The military profile barrel on my Carl Gustav M96 also gets pretty hot really quick, specially if shooting hot reloads with IMR-7828. I guess the main reasons must be the long bearing lenght of the 6.5mm bullets and maybe a tight bore diameter (although I've never slugged mine to tell for sure).
 
panther said:
Could anyone please guide me through the process of diassembling the bolt on Husqvarna 1600. Thanks
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You should have a small hole in the cocking piece of the bolt, exposed when it is cocked or slid back. Put a decapping pin or other suitable pin in there to hold the spring tension.

Push in the plunger on the side of the bolt and unthread the assy.

Next push the firing pin down against a piece of wood, holding the shroud in your hand and give the cocking piece a quarter turn to dissengage from the firing pin. * Hold on tight and allow slide apart slowly.
 
There are other Swedish rifles too. This one is a Stiga 8x57 from Trade-ex, side safety, 4x Bushnell Banner scope with post and cross hair.
Extended bolt handle for winter conditions......the guy that set this one up was a hunter.

Sorry about the big pix, but just started using a new service.

RBtA5.jpg
 
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Noel said:
You should have a small hole in the cocking piece of the bolt, exposed when it is cocked or slid back. Put a decapping pin or other suitable pin in there to hold the spring tension.

Push in the plunger on the side of the bolt and unthread the assy.

Next push the firing pin down against a piece of wood, holding the shroud in your hand and give the cocking piece a quarter turn to dissengage from the firing pin. * Hold on tight and allow slide apart slowly.
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Thanks Noel, It's quite helpful and it worked.
 
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