I'll get back to you on that.
Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!
- Thread starter Baribal
- Start date
I'll get back to you on that.
Ltbull01, if your rifle is fitted with 1" wire sling loop, it's a 3000 Crown Grade and if it's fitted with milled 3/4" sling swivel loops, then, it's a 1640MC (but it's pretty much the same thing.)
The Timney trigger is most likely a # 301 (the FN type) and the safety lever needed some carving of the stock to be fitted there.
The Timney trigger is most likely a # 301 (the FN type) and the safety lever needed some carving of the stock to be fitted there.
It has the 1" wire swivel loop, so it's a 3000 Crown Grade.
Can someone please explain to me the different models of Husqvarna .22 repeater?
I see references to 622, 1622 and 1722. I see different rifles, some with dovetails for a scope, some without, some with rear safeties, some with side safeties, some with schnabel forends, some without...
I would like to know what approximate year the different models appeared and their general characteristics.
Thanks.
I see references to 622, 1622 and 1722. I see different rifles, some with dovetails for a scope, some without, some with rear safeties, some with side safeties, some with schnabel forends, some without...
I would like to know what approximate year the different models appeared and their general characteristics.
Thanks.
I'll just keep adding to this one what I know, hopefully others will chime in too.
1722 - (1965-70) 6 round removable mag, 60cm barrel, side safety, top rail for scope.
1622 - (1956-64) don't have one yet. Same as 1722 6 round removable mag, 60cm barrel, side safety, top rail for scope.
622 - (1949-55) 6 round removable mag, 60cm barrel, safety is back of barrel, no rail for scope.
1722 - (1965-70) 6 round removable mag, 60cm barrel, side safety, top rail for scope.
1622 - (1956-64) don't have one yet. Same as 1722 6 round removable mag, 60cm barrel, side safety, top rail for scope.
622 - (1949-55) 6 round removable mag, 60cm barrel, safety is back of barrel, no rail for scope.
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Thanks. Helpful.
Although I am still not clear on the difference between 1722 and 1622. You describe them the same.
(I am assuming the checkering on your Model 1722 was added after purchase.)
How does a person learn these model numbers? Old catalogues? I don't recall seeing any model markings on the ones I have owned.
Although I am still not clear on the difference between 1722 and 1622. You describe them the same.
(I am assuming the checkering on your Model 1722 was added after purchase.)
How does a person learn these model numbers? Old catalogues? I don't recall seeing any model markings on the ones I have owned.
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Rob,
To make it simple, the 622 is a revamped 165 with a bulkier stock and a magazine, while the 623 is the target version of the 622. The 1622 is a modernized version of the 622, with a schnabel stock and other minor changes, while the 1722 is a 1622 with a modified safety (reversed engaging direction)
Still, the best (even missing a lot of info) document is the HVA museum book. It's called Husqvarna Jaktvapen 1870-1977
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i own a Carl Gustaf CG1900 left hand.
planning a trip to hunt Newfoundland moose next fall.
the outfitter mix hunting techniques. from sitting and glassing from and elevated position, which may end up in a 350-400y shot
and hunting calling in dense bush which may as well result in a 5-10y shot.
my 100-400 yard scope is a swarovski 4-12x50 with ballistic turret. but 4x might be much in the dense bush.
i also have in my possession a Nikon prostaff 2-7-33 that would fit the second scenario better.
my question is, is there a solid, reliable QD system that would fit my rifle?
so that i can switch scopes in the field, depending on the technique used.
if yes, anybody can give me the base number i need to order?
both scope need 1" rings
planning a trip to hunt Newfoundland moose next fall.
the outfitter mix hunting techniques. from sitting and glassing from and elevated position, which may end up in a 350-400y shot
and hunting calling in dense bush which may as well result in a 5-10y shot.
my 100-400 yard scope is a swarovski 4-12x50 with ballistic turret. but 4x might be much in the dense bush.
i also have in my possession a Nikon prostaff 2-7-33 that would fit the second scenario better.
my question is, is there a solid, reliable QD system that would fit my rifle?
so that i can switch scopes in the field, depending on the technique used.
if yes, anybody can give me the base number i need to order?
both scope need 1" rings
- Location
- Western Manitoba
coldmaker - although you are asking about components, might want to consider an alternative. Some say it is impossible - that it won't or can't work. Learn to shoot with both eyes open - believe it or not, your brain can process two different images - one from left eye and one from right eye. Starts with perhaps aperture sights - the US Marine Corps way of using them. Then to lower power scopes - 2.5 and 3 power. Then four power. And so on. For about 20 years, I hunted deer in Saskatchewan prairies with a Ruger #1A in 7x57 with an M8-6X scope - is not an issue at all to take a running deer in bush, if you have both eyes open - but really on the shooter to learn to do that. My 338 Win Mag had the same scope when I got my last elk - same deal - it was on the go less than 100 yards away, through the bush - I had to pick an opening to get a clear shot at it - I doubt I would have got it using just one eye...
I personally shoot with both eyes opened, unless the power is high. Same idea than when using a shotgun for flying birds.
For moose hunting, I do prefer 2-7 and 3-9 scopes, but the 2-7 have to edge for my type of hunting.
The 51344 is sold for the HVA 1900 in Sweden, so it must work, but I didn't try it myself yet.
For moose hunting, I do prefer 2-7 and 3-9 scopes, but the 2-7 have to edge for my type of hunting.
The 51344 is sold for the HVA 1900 in Sweden, so it must work, but I didn't try it myself yet.
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Strongest ? You mean bolt action, right ?
Well, if so, the only actions tested at magnum pressures were the 1640 and 1900. But the FN M/98 should do it (and will), while I wouldn't use the M94-M/38 on the long run at these pressures.
Well, if so, the only actions tested at magnum pressures were the 1640 and 1900. But the FN M/98 should do it (and will), while I wouldn't use the M94-M/38 on the long run at these pressures.
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Faint hope question: Bill Leeper is nearly finished building my Husqvarna Mannlicher styled 35 Whelan, complete with Bill doing a one piece stock. Anyone have a spare Timney trigger that retains the original safety laying around for sale? Bill can certainly improve the factory trigger. But two of my other choice Huskys have a Timney trigger from back in the day when they were making them, and I would like to have one in this rifle as well if possible.
PM if you have one, thanks.
PM if you have one, thanks.
My featherweight Huskies as well as my 358 Norma Magnum have never had anything other than 3x9 Leupolds on them; the old Compact models on the featherweights, and a Vari-X with bigger objective on the 358 Norma Magnum. Here, it can be moose or whitetails in the brush one day, and bighorn sheep, mule deer, etc the next.
I have occasionally wished for a bit less power in the really deep scrub, but 3x at the bottom and 9x at the top has worked fine for me over the last 45 years. I was started out with an old Weaver 4x on the surplus P17 that I started out with, and it worked just fine as well, to be fair. Jack O'Connor and a lot of the old sheep hunting/bear hunting hunting gurus shot a lot of game with fixed power scopes - many of them of even less power i.e. 2.5x.
Tally QD rings will probably work for you if you choose to go that route; choose the ring height that works for you:
https://www.talleymanufacturing.com/product/quick-detachable-ring-w-lever/
Use them on a couple of rifles that also get used as a camp bear wrench, so the scope can be removed to mount an aperture sight with ghost ring instead on the rear base. Return to zero on replacement is very, very close. One way to confirm zero when replacing/switching stocks is to bring your boresighter with you. After reinstalling a scope, this allows you to confirm the crosshairs fall on the same point on the boresighter matrix as they did before removal. There almost certainly similar alternatives from manufacturers other than Tally if you prefer.
Whether right hand/right eye dominant, left hand/left eye dominant, or right eye/left hand, etc. you are better off shooting with both eyes open if you really want to work on your shooting.
And it doesn't take long to teach yourself to shoot from either shoulder if you put a little effort into learning how to do so. Police training with firearms has required recruits to do that since at least the 1950's - the reason that PPC competition born from police training involves shooting barricade positions with both left and the right side.
Any pre completion pics of the stock!
