Husqvarna Sporting Rifles #### - ALL MODELS!!!

Hey Baribal, on the Husqvarna 4000 in 30-06 I inherited from my Dad,

30-06Husqvarna.jpg


my only criticism is the trigger pull. I've used it with success on Mule Deer in AB but I would like to improve the trigger.

My1stAltaMulie.jpg


Can the existing trigger pull be easily set up/improved? If not, what after market trigger unit would be your first choice as a replacement? If need be, I can live with it as is but I'd rather improve it.
 
Yes, they can be safely improved to about three pounds, but since it's a single stage Mauser trigger, I always suggest to leave it to a good competent gunsmith, because it's easy to scrap both the sear and the cocking piece mating surface with too much work.
Anyhow, you can try polishing both mating surfaces with a polishing wheel / paste (Dremel) or a #600 sandpaper. Take good care not to modify the angles of these surfaces because it's usually what makes the trigger worse or even dangerous.

KC,

Not likely. Such things can happen when someone forces the action out of the stock, or with bad handling of the rifle or when the bolt is put back in the action. Otherwise, there's no real reason for this to happen.
 
Yes, they can be safely improved to about three pounds, but since it's a single stage Mauser trigger, I always suggest to leave it to a good competent gunsmith, because it's easy to scrap both the sear and the cocking piece mating surface with too much work.
Anyhow, you can try polishing both mating surfaces with a polishing wheel / paste (Dremel) or a #600 sandpaper. Take good care not to modify the angles of these surfaces because it's usually what makes the trigger worse or even dangerous.

KC,

Not likely. Such things can happen when someone forces the action out of the stock, or with bad handling of the rifle or when the bolt is put back in the action. Otherwise, there's no real reason for this to happen.

:) Thanks guy .
 
I did use a Timney w/ safety successfully on that model and it was a significantly better trigger. Nice buck BTW John.

Thanks guy for the suggestion of a Timney trigger as a replacement. I'll probably start with Baribals recommendation of tuning up the existing one first as I want to keep it as original as possible. The rifle was handed down to me by my Dad and as both my Son and Daughter are left handed, it looks like I'll be passing it on to my Granddaughter, when the time comes.

That was my first AB Mulie and compared to what we have here on the island, they all look like monsters out there. My Daughter did a great European mount for me on that one and the last trip, I got a 5x5. Looking forward to the next trip.
 
.234 Win Husqvarna

I was told this would be the place to get some info on my newly aquired Rifle. It is a Husqvarna Vapenfabriks A.B. .243 Winch Imperial. S/N starts 323 and has Nitro following it, with a crown over the word Nitro. It has a Weaver V7-II Micro-Trac 2.5-7 Scope. What model is it? Picked it up from my Uncle who has had it for 35-40 years? The factory sights are missing and I would like to find some for it. Any suggestions as to where I might find them would be great. I would post a picture, but can't figure out how to. Tks
 
Hi GrizzBear,

Well, as .243 Winchester "Imperial" does not exist, I really susspect you have an "Imperial" model, wich was the top of the line model, if you don't count the Presentation model, wich had an engraved receiver.
There was two "Imperial" models, one being serie 6000 (Monte-Carlo Stock, Rosewood forend, high gloss plastic-like stock finish, 23,622" (600mm) barrel) the other one being the 7000 (Monte-Carlo stock, Schnabel forend, high gloss plastic-like finish, 20.472" (520mm) barrel, a.k.a as "Lightweight Imperial")
Both model have an adjustable trigger (Timney-Tradewinds), select European Walnut stocks and jeweled bolt. Sometimes, you will find engraved floorplates. They both have "Imperial" stamped on the barrel.
The sights, on both models, are; hooded ramped front, with silver plating bead, rear is a 3leaf, folding type, usually graduated 100, 200, 300 meters/yards.
If compared to the "standard" models, a 3000 Crown Grade price was 198.50 $ in 1967, while a 6000 Imperial was sold for 257.50 $. A 4000 "Lightweight" was 182.50 $ while a 7000 Imperial was 257.50 $. The Presentation grade (similar to the 3000 and 7000 mdes) was 410.00 $.
Your rifle was made in 1967.
Post pictures for positive ID.

Reagarding the current manufacture Timneys (for LR and SR Mausers), they work, but the original safety must go and you need to carve the stock for the new safety lever.
 
Tks for the info. It looks like I have a 6000. When I posted "Husqvarna Vapenfabriks A.B. .243 Winch Imperial" I was just indicating what was stamped on top of the barrel so some one could help identify what I had, I realize there is no such calibre as a .243 Winch Imperial. I found some sights today that I am told are original new factory sights. I question the rear sight as it is a plain open sight with an elevator, like you would fined on .22 rim fire. How do you post Pictures?? Tks again.
 
You need to post it first to a host site, such as Photobusket etc, here's the tutorial;
http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=198167

HVA sights (and hoods) are hard to come by (a bit less these days, but still) and anyways, there's no way to say if they were on HVA rifles before because they are not identified as such.
Post pics of the sights you founs and i'll tell you if they will match your rifle. Installing the right style of sights will keep the originality of the rifle. The single leaf style, with elevetor was used on plainer grades. If you can't find a three leaf style, then a single leaf folding sight will look better, even if i't not the exact thing.
The dovetail is 3/8" standard. The height will really depend on the front you will install.
 
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Husky wood on a '48 FN98

What type of wood was used for the Husky stocks on the commercial FN 98's....Birch maybe?....it's a Trade-Ex 8x57 with a 5 digit serial # 58###..which I believe to be 1948??....I'm on dial-up, so posting pics would be painful. Also, if this has been covered already, my apologies.:redface:d:h:
Thanks
 
Some are walnut, having in mind the M/146 originally chambered in 9.3X57, but after WWII walnut wood was not what we can classify as "common", for obvious reasons...
HVA did not use BIRCH but BEECH wood for the most of the non-walnut stocks (birch was used for some very early models, but never for CF bolt action rifles).
Well, a shame? I wouldn't say so, because at least, and unlike many devastated countries, they were still producing sporting guns right after the conflict.
Some of the late 640 production, especially those which were intended for export, have walnut stocks, but in Sweden there was and still is - just look at IKEA's stuff, some kind of love for the beech wood..
 
Now you guys, don't be too hard on beech stocks.
I bought one of the early Husqvarna's as a Christmas present for myself, in December, 1949. It has the beautiful Model 98 action and an excellently shaped stock, of beech. It has the full forestock, which greatly helps reduce the felt effect of recoil.
For quite a number of years I used that rifle very extensively, sometimes in the roughest weather BC can produce in the fall, winter or spring. I have carried it on more mountains than I could ever recall, most of the time with no scope, but a Lyman 48 aperature rear sight. As I like to put it, that rifle has seen quite a few of the best goat mountains in BC.
The stock shows some scars, but not once did any kind of weather ever change POI to affect hunting accuracy, whatsoever.
We like the look of nice walnut, but really, I actually think that beech stock is more durable than a walnut stock.
 
No worries....the stock is growing on me. I actually bought a new laminate stock to replace the old one with (I know, blasphemus:eek:) before I bought the gun itself....but I see absolutely nothing wrong with the original stock other that a couple of character dings.... this thing shoulders so nicely and is quite accurate, why change it?....you may also see a BNIB large ring mauser laminate stock up on the EE storly....:p
 
Baribal and H4831,

Point ... (those beauty beechy 'ol Swede handles) ... is well taken, :).

The fact is those Old World craftsmen did such a fine stain job, that despite a magnifying glass on Anthony's enlarged pics, this wood guy got fooled more than once:redface:.

Years ago, on a whim, I bought a 8mm, FN98, "barreled receiver" Husqvarna from Trade Ex. Forty bucks. :D
Turns out to be a 'transitional' receiver, no SN, 'Husqvarna Vapenfabricks AB Kal. 8 mm', with a single standing leaf, the barrel is stamped #55503, ... with no thumb cut out in the action's sidewall, and a full :D'C':D ring.
Immaculate bore. All very good.

The quest began. ..... Gotta build this one, and, with the correct components.
GB auction produced an orig. FN hinged bottom metal, steel, with inside the bow release. Jumped through hoops to put my hands on that one, so I did!. A fellow member is to be thanked.:rockOn:
The correct FN bolt showed up on the EE, and barely 1 hours drive away!, again, a member to the rescue.:)
Trigger and boltstop/release from Trade Ex.

So, ... the search for a snobble Walnut stock continues.:eek:
With the commercial short tang bottom metal inletting.

This one was D/T'd for a sidemount, sure would like to locate a low'ish unit for the K 2.5 post scope waiting to ride this thoroughbred.

It won't ever be drilled for a topmount, thats for sure.

Can you guy's believe my good luck?.:D
 
Prior to the 1968 US Gun Control Act, it was a common thing to only stamp S/N on the barrel. After 1968, everyone had to stamp the receiver with S/N (which makes more sense to me, anyways).
HVA used to scrub (and they were good at it) the receivers from Belgian markings, so the receivers, there are some rare examples out there showing Belgian faded markings.

As for Beech, HVA did not use to "stain" them, just in seldom occasions, but they were applying good coats of oil wich makes tohe wood look darker. Just one thing about beech, it doesn't seem to handle dryness as weel as walnut, and for that reason, the beech stocks are often found with "tang" and internal wall between the trigger and magazine well cracks. Usually, it's easy to fix, but would need glueing and a pin or a crossbolt.
 
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