I need some help from the big dogs regarding reloading
- Thread starter ironsite
- Start date
One thing, remove the extractor and it will not cut the o-ring.
Second thing, commercial cases have small base diameters and the chamber has a larger diameter. When the o-ring around the rim is compressed and flattened it "centers" the case in the rear of the chamber and aids in cartridge alignment when fired. And a o-ring that is not nicked and cut by the extractor will perform this case centering in the chamber MUCH better.
Below on the left is an exception to the normal small base diameter on .303 brass. The case on the left is Prvi Partizan, it has thicker rims, it has a larger base diameter and the base of the case is .010 thicker than any other case made. Both the cases pictured below were fired in the same No.4 Enfield rifle and you can see that the HXP case has a smaller base diameter. "BUT" the Greek HXP cases are noted for long reloading life and the brass quality is excellent.
Bottom line, you can see how the o-ring would help center the HXP case for better alignment and accuracy. As far as new production .303 brass the Prvi Partizan cases are excellent for reloading and one of the best .303 cases out there for long life.
Below, I fire form my cases using the o-ring method with reduced loads using 100 grain .312 pistol bullets, and using SR4759 or Trail Boss powder. These reduced loads also have the added benefit of making the brass butt plate "softer" when fire forming 100 to 200 rounds at one sitting
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One more thing, I am too lazy to read it all again to quote who said it though. Fire forming cases does not increase capacity and reduce pressures, it's chamber size that matters. Once the brass stretches to fit the chamber, THAT is the capacity that matters and determines any difference in pressure, it doesn't matter if the brass is fire formed or not.
Fire forming "DOES" increase case capacity and you only use cases fired in YOUR rifle when measuring the case capacity in grains of H2O. With Quickload you MUST use a fired case to check your case capacity, and a new unfired case will give you a false reading and make your chamber pressures figures read higher because a unfired case will hold less H2O.
With less than 2 grains of H2O case capacity difference below changes the chamber pressure by 6,000 psi.
That's case capacity Mr Ed. I meant there is no pressure difference between the brass as new, or once fired thus fire formed,in a load of xx grains of xyz powder pushing the same projectile. The smaller CASE capacity of the new brass will not increase the firing pressure as the brass will expand to the chamber, and therefore be equal in capacity to the fire formed brass, well before peak load pressure.
I am very tired and still quite dizzy while recovering from a suprise medical problem that required ambulances, medevac and a hospital stay, maybe I am not explaining it very well, as usual, lol.
I am very tired and still quite dizzy while recovering from a suprise medical problem that required ambulances, medevac and a hospital stay, maybe I am not explaining it very well, as usual, lol.
TargetAcquired
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- S. Ontario
reduced loads using 100 grain .312 pistol bullets, and using SR4759 or Trail Boss powder. These reduced loads also have the added benefit of making the brass butt plate "softer" when fire forming 100 to 200 rounds at one sitting
Interesting... did you crimp them in that position for the right length? Could be the crummy photo, but the round on the left looks crimped, the one on the right not. I assume you are manually chambering each one individually - sounds like a long session to get 200 done.
I have about 200 IVI brass that I have done nothing with, but I have a new (to me) rifle I want to marry them to - do those loads have any kind of performance to them? I know the point is to form the brass, but if you can have a little fun while doing it, you get 2 birds stoned at once.
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tungngroove2000
CGN Regular
- Location
- Beautiful BC
not to pester but I will be fireforming some handloads this week and would appreciate any ideas as to what/where to get the "O-rings" mentioned?
any help appreciated.
thanks
any help appreciated.
thanks
Dollar Store, buy the smallest hair elastics they have. The elastic will most likely be loose on the brass so just double it around (if that makes sense).
No one has mentioned a simple way to check the condition of casings in the future. Sometimes it's hard to see the ring.
A pick with a 90* bend and a sharp tip. Reach in the case and scrape the inside wall. If you feel a dip, toss the case. Better yet section the case so you can see what your feeling. It will also give you a better idea when a case needs to be culled or if you can get another use or so out of it.
A pick with a 90* bend and a sharp tip. Reach in the case and scrape the inside wall. If you feel a dip, toss the case. Better yet section the case so you can see what your feeling. It will also give you a better idea when a case needs to be culled or if you can get another use or so out of it.
I only crimp pistol ammunition and "never" crimp rifle ammunition.
Or even better, use a RCBS case mastering gauge and read the thinning in thousandths of an inch and forget the hand felt dips.
Can I just say that I loved watching the big dogs come out and play. Just 48hours after the original we have five pages of replies that include but not restricted to, Name calling, graphs, diagrams, more name calling, possible use for a dental pick, little girls hair supplies and some total awesome advice, tips and tricks. You guys rock.
EcoHeliGuy
Member
- Location
- Vancouver island
Not sure if anyone mentioned this but if I remember correctly you could get a number of different bolt heads for the Lee Enfield that would allow for the adjustment of head space. A COMPETENT smith should be able to advise. I would call Elwood Epps Spoting Goods and see if they could help.
Far from a big dog here but have reloaded for over 30 years. About 4 yrs ago I picked up a LE No4 Mk 2 and also restored a friends LE No4 Mk1*. Bought a couple boxes of Federal blue box 180 grain at the local shop and off to the range I went. Everything was fine so I reloaded all the once fired brass with a light starting load from my Lyman manual using 174 gr hornady's. All rounds were full length resized. Next trip to the range I had 5 complete case head separations out of 20 rounds fired. It happened in both rifles.
Just like you, I jumped on CGN and soon got straightened out by some very knowledgeable gentlemen. Number 3 bolt heads were not the answer as I had assumed. Neck resizing only and keeping the fired brass specific to each individual rifle was the answer. BigedP51 has made some great illustrated posts about loading for the LE and how to avoid case head separations.
Find them and read them carefully and then enjoy reloading for your LE.
And by the way, the only time I cannot hear powder shaking inside one of my reloads is when I stoke up my 340 Gibbs with a compressed powder charge of IMR 4350. I load for a number of different calibers including 340 Gibbs,7x57, 8x57, 30-06, 270, 303 Brit and 6.5x54 MS. In fact, I do a shake test of each and every round I re-load and listen for the sound of powder shaking in the case. It is a secondary check after a visual inspection of all powder charged cases to ensure that there is indeed powder in the case. I feel that I can never be too careful when playing with fire.
Cheers
George
Just like you, I jumped on CGN and soon got straightened out by some very knowledgeable gentlemen. Number 3 bolt heads were not the answer as I had assumed. Neck resizing only and keeping the fired brass specific to each individual rifle was the answer. BigedP51 has made some great illustrated posts about loading for the LE and how to avoid case head separations.
Find them and read them carefully and then enjoy reloading for your LE.
And by the way, the only time I cannot hear powder shaking inside one of my reloads is when I stoke up my 340 Gibbs with a compressed powder charge of IMR 4350. I load for a number of different calibers including 340 Gibbs,7x57, 8x57, 30-06, 270, 303 Brit and 6.5x54 MS. In fact, I do a shake test of each and every round I re-load and listen for the sound of powder shaking in the case. It is a secondary check after a visual inspection of all powder charged cases to ensure that there is indeed powder in the case. I feel that I can never be too careful when playing with fire.
Cheers
George
Hi guys,
Just an update. I had a couple of hours that I spent at the range today. I finally fired the 30/30 and .303 brt reloads once I had your input and wow. I mean wow. They went bang, made a hole in the paper and everything.
With the lighter powder loads in both the .303 and 30/30 the recoil was almost none existent and the grouping was improving (now I have to improve my grouping...practice, practice, practice).
A new question that I should have asked earlier. When only collar sizing the .303 brass, do I wind down the primer pusher on my original die or would you recommend a separate primer remover or a separate collar only die?
Thanks.
Just an update. I had a couple of hours that I spent at the range today. I finally fired the 30/30 and .303 brt reloads once I had your input and wow. I mean wow. They went bang, made a hole in the paper and everything.
With the lighter powder loads in both the .303 and 30/30 the recoil was almost none existent and the grouping was improving (now I have to improve my grouping...practice, practice, practice).
A new question that I should have asked earlier. When only collar sizing the .303 brass, do I wind down the primer pusher on my original die or would you recommend a separate primer remover or a separate collar only die?
Thanks.
