is synthetic engine oil ok for gun lub??

omegaboost

omegaboost

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just wanted to be sure since I have some laying around. Not to mention what goes inside a motor must be much harder than what goes inside a gun.
 
Yes, but grease is even better on sliding surfaces. There's nothing magic about firearm-specific lubricants.
 
True but viscosity and what some lubricants do in various temperatures should be considered.

IF my rifles get oil/lube it is a very small amount and very light weight.

My bolts get no lube except for what is in the bolt from factory or after machining.

tjhaile said:
Yes, but grease is even better on sliding surfaces. There's nothing magic about firearm-specific lubricants.
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lubes

Why not just spend the $10 -$20. on a lube specifically designed for firearms.
What do you think you automobile warranty would say if you filled you engine with Hoppes,CLP,slide glide or whatever.
Its your gun to do with as you please though
 
If anyone really thinks gun oil is really any different than automotive oil, I've got some snake oil to sell you. It is marketing and nothing more. Some are simple re-bottled and re-labeled industrial/automotive lubricants and some are a hodgepodge of solvents/oils/dyes to give a unique trait that fools the buyer into beliving they have purchased a scientifically developed formula from NASA for space guns.

A light synthetic engine oil with a hi viscosity index (in engrish... Good quality synthetic, 0-25, 5-30 will be thin enough at low temps and still give protection at high temps) is all you need. This stuff IS scientifically designed. It is designed for an environment that is much much much harsher than your firearm could hope to create.

How often do you change the oil in your gun, every 500-1000 cycles?
Well there is 5000 times more "potential" metal to metal contact in a motor, each square inch of that is in constant rotating motion and 2-10 000 times PER MINUTE of thousands of kilometers between changes. Each piston has 4 rings that scrape the cylender walls 1200-1400 times a second as you idle. The 4-32(depending on engine) Lifters and cam lobes contact each other under
hundreds of pounds of force thousnads of times a minute for thousands of kilometers.

Then there's transmission fluid, it's environment is extremely tough as well. All that power getting to your wheels is transmitted by about 2 gear teeth at a time, a surface area smaller than a chicklet, tens of thousands pounds per square inch of force trying to create metal to metal contact, yet that thin ATF remains a constant buffer.
 
fuzzynuts54 said:
If anyone really thinks gun oil is really any different than automotive oil, I've got some snake oil to sell you. It is marketing and nothing more. Some are simple re-bottled and re-labeled industrial/automotive lubricants and some are a hodgepodge of solvents/oils/dyes to give a unique trait that fools the buyer into beliving they have purchased a scientifically developed formula from NASA for space guns.

A light synthetic engine oil with a hi viscosity index (in engrish... Good quality synthetic, 0-25, 5-30 will be thin enough at low temps and still give protection at high temps) is all you need. This stuff IS scientifically designed. It is designed for an environment that is much much much harsher than your firearm could hope to create.

How often do you change the oil in your gun, every 500-1000 cycles?
Well there is 5000 times more "potential" metal to metal contact in a motor, each square inch of that is in constant rotating motion and 2-10 000 times PER MINUTE of thousands of kilometers between changes. Each piston has 4 rings that scrape the cylender walls 1200-1400 times a second as you idle. The 4-32(depending on engine) Lifters and cam lobes contact each other under
hundreds of pounds of force thousnads of times a minute for thousands of kilometers.

Then there's transmission fluid, it's environment is extremely tough as well. All that power getting to your wheels is transmitted by about 2 gear teeth at a time, a surface area smaller than a chicklet, tens of thousands pounds per square inch of force trying to create metal to metal contact, yet that thin ATF remains a constant buffer.
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+1
Well said!:cheers:
 
ATF is poisonous as though isn't it? I use Slip 2000 EWL and find it to be the best gun oil I've used, it also claims to be non toxic. I have thought about using diesel engine oil in my AR, since it has detergents which break down carbon. I honestly think that most quality oils are a much of a muchness when it comes to lubing firearms. WD40 is handy if you wanna cheap out - I've found it to be a good carbon cleaner and a good corrosion inhibitor, but a #### lubricant.
 
I have used synthetic diesel motor oil before for the same reasons - it breaks down carbon, etc. and found that it seems to work very well. I still like the idea of grease better.
 
fuzzynuts54 said:
If anyone really thinks gun oil is really any different than automotive oil, I've got some snake oil to sell you. It is marketing and nothing more. Some are simple re-bottled and re-labeled industrial/automotive lubricants and some are a hodgepodge of solvents/oils/dyes to give a unique trait that fools the buyer into beliving they have purchased a scientifically developed formula from NASA for space guns.

A light synthetic engine oil with a hi viscosity index (in engrish... Good quality synthetic, 0-25, 5-30 will be thin enough at low temps and still give protection at high temps) is all you need. This stuff IS scientifically designed. It is designed for an environment that is much much much harsher than your firearm could hope to create.

How often do you change the oil in your gun, every 500-1000 cycles?
Well there is 5000 times more "potential" metal to metal contact in a motor, each square inch of that is in constant rotating motion and 2-10 000 times PER MINUTE of thousands of kilometers between changes. Each piston has 4 rings that scrape the cylender walls 1200-1400 times a second as you idle. The 4-32(depending on engine) Lifters and cam lobes contact each other under
hundreds of pounds of force thousnads of times a minute for thousands of kilometers.

Then there's transmission fluid, it's environment is extremely tough as well. All that power getting to your wheels is transmitted by about 2 gear teeth at a time, a surface area smaller than a chicklet, tens of thousands pounds per square inch of force trying to create metal to metal contact, yet that thin ATF remains a constant buffer.
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thats what I was telling myself. No way in hell would a gun's internal go thru much harder condition than a motor.

Not to mention, when I got my tavor, the BCG was all oiled in a red lub which looks like ATF (pretty sure it was ATF) so synthetic motor oil would probably be even better. And just to add more, synthetic oil is made to be much more fluid in extremely cold temperatures so thats a plus.
 
fuzzynuts54 said:
If anyone really thinks gun oil is really any different than automotive oil, I've got some snake oil to sell you. It is marketing and nothing more. Some are simple re-bottled and re-labeled industrial/automotive lubricants and some are a hodgepodge of solvents/oils/dyes to give a unique trait that fools the buyer into beliving they have purchased a scientifically developed formula from NASA for space guns.

A light synthetic engine oil with a hi viscosity index (in engrish... Good quality synthetic, 0-25, 5-30 will be thin enough at low temps and still give protection at high temps) is all you need. This stuff IS scientifically designed. It is designed for an environment that is much much much harsher than your firearm could hope to create.

How often do you change the oil in your gun, every 500-1000 cycles?
Well there is 5000 times more "potential" metal to metal contact in a motor, each square inch of that is in constant rotating motion and 2-10 000 times PER MINUTE of thousands of kilometers between changes. Each piston has 4 rings that scrape the cylender walls 1200-1400 times a second as you idle. The 4-32(depending on engine) Lifters and cam lobes contact each other under
hundreds of pounds of force thousnads of times a minute for thousands of kilometers.

Then there's transmission fluid, it's environment is extremely tough as well. All that power getting to your wheels is transmitted by about 2 gear teeth at a time, a surface area smaller than a chicklet, tens of thousands pounds per square inch of force trying to create metal to metal contact, yet that thin ATF remains a constant buffer.
Click to expand...

Well said. There are no special refineries where gun lubricants are made.
 
Paatz said:
Do both and get some Lucas gun oil.
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?catid=2&iid=27&loc=show
Guy I bought from said the local army guys were buying it by the case.
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army guys do not buy this for military weapons. doing so would land them in front of the csm, and thats not a place where you want to be. remember being scolded or kicked in the ass by your father when you messed up as a kid? it 1000 times worse. i work on/teach the 25 mm cannons here in gagetown. we use grease on the guns. no oil. the large guns cycle at up to 200 rpm. we change the grease in the feeders every 5 years. the feeders are like a 2 speed tranny.

the lucas guy did drop by my shop one day and gave the guys samples to use on thier personel guns and ill admit its good stuff. motor oil of any type will work well. if it really cold and dry use graphite. just remember when in NEED almost anything will do.


cheers
angry
 
beavis_m305 said:
ATF is poisonous as though isn't it? I use Slip 2000 EWL and find it to be the best gun oil I've used, it also claims to be non toxic. I have thought about using diesel engine oil in my AR, since it has detergents which break down carbon. I honestly think that most quality oils are a much of a muchness when it comes to lubing firearms. WD40 is handy if you wanna cheap out - I've found it to be a good carbon cleaner and a good corrosion inhibitor, but a s**t lubricant.
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Yes, dont drink the ATF, or any oil that isn't vegetable or animal based. You probably shouldn't lick your guns either. What's your point? Wd40 is a water displacement product, not a lubricant, it doesn't work as seasoning either.:p
 
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