Lets poke the beehive. 22LR Heavy barrels purly cosmetic for rifles under $1000

D) You're dialing in a hunting rifle that is going to be....... cold when you shoot one shot at your game.

This thread is interspersed with talk of overheating barrels. Why? Who has experienced this as a result of shooting, not being out in the hot sun? Sporter barrel or bull barrel in .22LR will not overheat.

Yup, but for the most part, you don't spend a lot of time dialing in a 22, which is what we're talking about.

Actually, if you're out in the field on a +30 day in a gopher patch, they can get quite hot.

Indeed. That's why I made a point of excluding "being out in the hot sun".;)

Im trying to take all "environmental" factors and "human error" out of this for the sake of limiting the factors. (Even though barrel heat is created by shooting, an action the human controls... Making it human error lol)

Who spends time dialing in a 22 that much? I DO! lol Have you tried the Know your limits targets?! The 50 point is the size of a 22lr round !

Out hunting I have never had my 22lr's barrels get to hot... Mind you I'm not in the prairies shooting gophers. I only use bolt guns...

I have "warmed up" 22lr rifles, but again only being bolt guns I cant shoot enough to get it too hot to touch. Im sure a semi auto could with a drum... (Prohib now tho lol)
 
so for fun my dad brought out his Ruger 10/22.
i have the identical gun, in fact we purchased these guns together back in..... 1993(????) while on a trip down in Montana.
mine is bone stock with a Butler Creek folding stock on it.
his he has done a little work to it, Green Mountain Bull Barrel, Boyd Stock and a VQ HP Trigger kit.
this is as close as i can get to comparing the same guns with different barrels.
so while not identical anymore and im sure we will all agree the upgraded trigger parts on his will add some more accuracy to his - its as close as test as i can get.

so we wanted to see for fun the difference his barrel made for accuracy.

so we went out today and he shot his gun, then mine, then i shot his gun, then mine.
we came home, i used 'on target' to calculate out shots.
his won.
not by much mind you, and im sure we could chalk some of that up to the trigger but his gun did win - didnt matter who was shooting it me or him the groups where tighter.

some pics:

my gun
006_zpsatlr34ot.jpg


his gun
010_zpsprtm7qd2.jpg


ammo used
008_zpsnk5cy7i4.jpg


the set up used
007_zpsao73ezuh.jpg

023_zpskod6qwxx.jpg


Targets:

bull barrel ruger with me shooting 0.670"
28%202%202_zpsqorfmzwb.jpg

stock ruger with me shooting 1.330"
29%202%202_zpsxv2wj4fu.jpg


stock ruger with my dad shooting 0.991"
30%202%202_zpsxeci8vqa.jpg

bull barrel ruger with my dad shooting 0.944"
31%202%202_zps2iibb44i.jpg


stock ruger with me shooting 1.330"
bull barrel ruger with me shooting 0.670"
stock ruger with my dad shooting 0.991"
bull barrel ruger with my dad shooting 0.944"
 
The results posted with the Rugers is not surprising. The stock Ruger 10/22 is not known as an accurate rifle, is it? With the folding stock, it would be even more challenged to do well off the bench, too. Comparing a sporter profile stock 10/22 with a less than average stock (for bench shooting) against one with a better quality barrel and a superior stock and trigger is hardly a fair comparison.
 
Thanks for posting, though I would hardly draw any conclusions from the test. Using only one ammo, Blazer at that, makes no allowance for one rifle "liking" it more than the other. If you just did this for fun, that's fine. If you're trying to actually test the theory, at least 10 ammos would have to be tried in each rifle for a minimum of 5 groups each type. Only compare the best results from each rifle. The GM barrel already skews this test, as it should be superior in quality to any Ruger factory barrel, regardless of contour.
 
Well, there's 15 minutes wasted. OP if you are serious about wether a HB or Sporter Barrel is accurate as you purport, WHY are you allowing them time to cool?
You want to take out human variable, ammunition variables etc, so why in the name of Zeus's butthole are you self-limiting a test in order to skew the results in favor of a sporter barrel? It is ridiculous at best.

Repeat the test in your imaginary vise, and shoot 100 rounds in 15 minutes our of each barrel.

Until then it's junk science on your part.
 
Just for Giggles, I will get out next weekend with 2 rifles that shoot well and are identical excepting the Barrels.

Rifle 1 is a Walther KKM-UIT with a Suhl International contour barrel.

Rifle 2 is a Walther Running Boar Heavy Barrel.

Both are very rigid single shot guns, and can easily run through 100 rounds in 15 minutes. Then we can see what the results are at 100m
 
Unless out in the sun, barrels on a bolt action rifle will not overheat by shooting .22LR. If out in the sun, the sun does more to heat the barrel than the bullet going down the barrel.
 
Unless out in the sun, barrels on a bolt action rifle will not overheat by shooting .22LR. If out in the sun, the sun does more to heat the barrel than the bullet going down the barrel.

Hm, might need another tool, a non contact thermometer. I was thinking of our range which has covered shooting.... 100 through each, and then measure the bore temp ahead of the chamber.

Heat should build slower in the HB, and then stay more constant than the pencil barrel which should heat and cool more rapidly because of metal mass?
 
Only a couple samples, but they do show inexpensive 22LR rifles with heavy barrels are more accurate. I recently bought a Savage MkII F (sporter barrel) for around $200, a couple friends bought the MkII FV (heavy barrel) for around $300 each. There was a Savage rimfire rebate on. ;) All else being the same (synthetic stock, accutrigger, decent rimfire scopes, shooting with front and rear bags off a bench, rifles were broken in with several hundred rounds, ammunition testing was done to find the most accurate one for that rifle) the heavy barrels trounced my sporter at 50m. Both were consistently shooting under an inch, and sometimes to half an inch. The best my sporter could do was about an inch, usually 1.5 to 2. I've had other sporter barreled MkIIs before, and experienced the same level of accuracy. :( In contrast, my CZ452 sporter barrel could keep up with the MkII heavy barrels. :)
 
imagine a .22LR barrel, 18" long, and 2" thick. It would not even budge, it would be like some sort of bullet lobbing device, not so much a barrel...

... heating: non-issue
... movement: non-issue
... assume a proper job in chanbering and rifling; would it be a tack driver as far as a .22 could be capable?!? Like the most insane bench rifle i guess
 
I'm curious as to how the physics of a barrel/receiver combo would change because the importer charged more than $1000 for it? I bought a new, 1956 Brno Model 4 (Biathlon version - slightly longer, heavy barrel than normal) for $150 in 1994, it would shoot .3 groups at 50 yards with optics, half inch with irons. I'm not sure the rifle was aware that at it's price point it couldn't do that.
 
I would argue, what is more detrimental. A shooter who is unstable or with poor form vrs a hot barrel. The weight of the rifle only comes into play once you put the human factor into the equation. It MAY help some shooters stabilize.

If testing for true accuracy/precision, we do as much as we can to take the human error out of the equation. IE why led sleds come into play, rear monopods, bipods, ect. None of the mentioned tools with make a rifle group better, they simply help take the human input/error out of the equation for precision.

If I am after the ultimate in precision, I avoid lead sleds. I prefer a good rest/bag combination. Companies with accuracy guarantees like Cooper use a rest/bag combination.
 
Back
Top Bottom