Let's see some pics of your Pimped out Troy PAR

View attachment 116121

I did a sort of DMR type set up.

Bushnell Elite Tactical 5-15x40
Burris P.E.P.R. mount
Noveske TRX QD sling swivel mount in front hand guard
Troy 2" rail section for bi-pod mount
El-cheapo UTG QD bi-pod
Troy dual chamber muzzle brake
Ballistic Advantage .223 Wylde Premium Series SPR contour 18" heavy barrel
Trigger Tech ar trigger pack

She's a heavy beast. I have the adapter for a standard buffer tube but have not yet bought a tube or stock. Am planning on going with a Magpul CTR and a 1/2" cheek riser. The folding stock doesn't make for a great feeling cheek weld. The Trigger Tech functions perfectly. I did get a couple light strikes at first but quickly solved that by clipping a bit of coil from the spring on the slide release or bolt lock mechanism (or whatever you call it) that the hammer hits and pushes down when fired. Just enough to still allow it to function yet relieve some pressure that, I figure, wasn't allowing the hammer to hit with full force. Hasn't missed a beat since.
The Ballistic Advantage barrel quality far exceeds it's price point. I think I could shoot the balls off of a fly with this rig if I tried.
Not much more than 100 rounds through it yet but so far so good.
 
jiffx2781 said:
View attachment 116121

I did a sort of DMR type set up.

Bushnell Elite Tactical 5-15x40
Burris P.E.P.R. mount
Noveske TRX QD sling swivel mount in front hand guard
Troy 2" rail section for bi-pod mount
El-cheapo UTG QD bi-pod
Troy dual chamber muzzle brake
Ballistic Advantage .223 Wylde Premium Series SPR contour 18" heavy barrel
Trigger Tech ar trigger pack

She's a heavy beast. I have the adapter for a standard buffer tube but have not yet bought a tube or stock. Am planning on going with a Magpul CTR and a 1/2" cheek riser. The folding stock doesn't make for a great feeling cheek weld. The Trigger Tech functions perfectly. I did get a couple light strikes at first but quickly solved that by clipping a bit of coil from the spring on the slide release or bolt lock mechanism (or whatever you call it) that the hammer hits and pushes down when fired. Just enough to still allow it to function yet relieve some pressure that, I figure, wasn't allowing the hammer to hit with full force. Hasn't missed a beat since.
The Ballistic Advantage barrel quality far exceeds it's price point. I think I could shoot the balls off of a fly with this rig if I tried.
Not much more than 100 rounds through it yet but so far so good.
Click to expand...

Very nice,

How do you like the bushnell I was thinking of getting one
 
MRCLARK said:
Very nice,

How do you like the bushnell I was thinking of getting one
Click to expand...

I have 4 of them so I think you can fill in the answer to your own question.

I have this one on the PAR, another one on a Remington 700 SPS Tactical 16.5" that sits in an MDT LSS chassis, and the other two are on my long range coyote rifles. One 243 and the other is a 25-06.

For the price point they are EXCELLENT scopes. Glass is really decent. Not high end decent but exceptional for the price. I like the Bushnell Elite series lense coatings better than some other makes I use. I find they bead the water off and have less tendency to fog. Turrets are really nice. Not a loud click but they have a really positive feel. No mushyness. You know exactly what you are doing with them. Never had any tracking issues. Dial them up, down, left, right, and back and forth again as much as you like. Put them back to zero and you're spot on. They are built fairly heavy (tough).

Now for what I don't like. 3x magnification range. It would be nice if the minimum magnification was lower than 5x (I prefer a 4-16 power scope) but beggers can't be choosers. This is one feature that helps keep the price point lower. I would like for the parallax to be a side focus knob instead of being on the objective lense. Sitting around shooting targets at know distances is no problem but on the two I use for coyote hunting I would prefer a side focus because I can make adjustments quicker and with less movement. I find that for anything over 300 yards parallax adjustment DOES make a big difference.

Sorry for the long winded reply but to keep a long story short, yes, I like them.

EDIT: The first one of these I got was a few years back and I was happy with it but the real reason I now have 4 is because just before Christmas last year Amazon had 3 in stock on sale for $330 each. At that price I had to snag them.
 
Last edited:
Thanks Jiffx for sharing your experience. The upper didn't fit my budget clamp block very well, and I could see the upper twisting significantly. I tried impact, but no heat. My local gun shop removed the barrel for me. No signs of Loctite.

It's coming in at 27.5" right now.

Some comments:
The no-name budget handguard from True North Arms is made of pretty soft aluminum. A lot of deburring required. I would want also to put something to link up the handguard rail to the receiver rail.
The LWRC stock has a lot of play. I'll see what I can do to shim it.
The upper/lower receiver mating has some left/right play in the front pivot pin area that bothers me.
I think a 1 1/4" OD, 1/4" thickness aluminum tubing will be a good starting point for the pump collar. Just need to bore it out to the barrel diameter. I think I'll drill a 1/8 hole in the operating rod and pin it to the pump collar with a dowel pin. The inside of the handguard is height constrained and will be enough to prevent it from detaching.

IMG_7156.jpg

IMG_7157.jpg

IMG_7158.jpg
 
For anyone thinking of using a carbine length gas system barrel, instead of a machined sleeve or welding the gas port I discovered that a size 9 mens ring will pretty much fit exactly on a .750 (nominally - actually a bit less usually) gas block sized barrel. Chilled the barrel in the freezer and used some red loctite on it as well and it seems to be holding up just fine.

Got a cheap ring off amazon with free next day delivery with prime for like $9 or something. Cheaper and quicker than a trip to the gunsmith and completely reversible.

You do need to trim the pump screws a bit, but only the forward one on each of the three sets.
 
I'm sorry guys, I either missed it or it's not in this thread yet, how do these shoot? Lots of mods done, but not much talk of accuracy.
 
I never shot mine with the factory barrel so I can't comment on accuracy in factory configuration. I think a lot of mods are done just because it's easy and affordable to do with this gun. People want to make it their own. Mods aren't done because they need to be done but only because they can be done. As far as accuracy goes the way mine is set up I can keep it between 1/2 and 3/4 MOA quite easily, some lucky ones have been less, but not before the trigger swap
 
I've heard reports of it being what you hope for with good ammo. If you don't expect to achieve this with Barnaul or MFS or the likes you probably won't get disappointed.
 
jiffx2781 said:
I've heard reports of it being what you hope for with good ammo. If you don't expect to achieve this with Barnaul or MFS or the likes you probably won't get disappointed.
Click to expand...

Sounds promising. I have a hole to fill in the short/medium range. Like a CZ Ranger, Ruger Scout. This might fit quite nicely.
 
Good info thanks, How do you find the bushnell stacks up against the Nikon m223 you ever did the comparison.


jiffx2781 said:
I have 4 of them so I think you can fill in the answer to your own question.

I have this one on the PAR, another one on a Remington 700 SPS Tactical 16.5" that sits in an MDT LSS chassis, and the other two are on my long range coyote rifles. One 243 and the other is a 25-06.

For the price point they are EXCELLENT scopes. Glass is really decent. Not high end decent but exceptional for the price. I like the Bushnell Elite series lense coatings better than some other makes I use. I find they bead the water off and have less tendency to fog. Turrets are really nice. Not a loud click but they have a really positive feel. No mushyness. You know exactly what you are doing with them. Never had any tracking issues. Dial them up, down, left, right, and back and forth again as much as you like. Put them back to zero and you're spot on. They are built fairly heavy (tough).

Now for what I don't like. 3x magnification range. It would be nice if the minimum magnification was lower than 5x (I prefer a 4-16 power scope) but beggers can't be choosers. This is one feature that helps keep the price point lower. I would like for the parallax to be a side focus knob instead of being on the objective lense. Sitting around shooting targets at know distances is no problem but on the two I use for coyote hunting I would prefer a side focus because I can make adjustments quicker and with less movement. I find that for anything over 300 yards parallax adjustment DOES make a big difference.

Sorry for the long winded reply but to keep a long story short, yes, I like them.

EDIT: The first one of these I got was a few years back and I was happy with it but the real reason I now have 4 is because just before Christmas last year Amazon had 3 in stock on sale for $330 each. At that price I had to snag them.
Click to expand...
 
Lead hammer said:
I'm sorry guys, I either missed it or it's not in this thread yet, how do these shoot? Lots of mods done, but not much talk of accuracy.
Click to expand...

I was really surprised with mine. With a cheapo bushnell ar 223 4x16x40 or whatever it is and factory ammo I was shooting around an inch or so at 100 yards. Imagine a good scope and handloads.
 
MRCLARK said:
Good info thanks, How do you find the bushnell stacks up against the Nikon m223 you ever did the comparison.
Click to expand...

I have two Nikon M223 scopes. A 3-12 on a bolt gun and a 4-16 on my xcr-l. I think the M223's have the Bushnell beat in a few small areas. The Nikon's have a 4x magnification ratio compared to the 3x with the Bushnell. The Nikon's have the side focus parallax adjustment which I prefer. Also the Nikon's have more internal elevation adjustment compared to the Bushnell. If I recall correctly the Nikon has around 55 moa elevation and the Bushnell only has 40 moa elevation adjustment.
Elevation adjustment being less on the Bushnell isn't a huge deal since most people aren't going to shoot a light little .223 far enough to run out but I did have to use a 20 moa rail on the .243.
Turrets on the M223's work just as good as the Bushnell. Really solid feeling, repeatable clicks.
Downside with the Nikon is the price is higher (but side focus and 4x ratio don't come free).
The glass is just as good (well almost) as the Bushnell. Only reason I find the Bushnell glass any better is because as I mentioned already, I find the lense coatings to do a better job at beading moisture off and preventing fogging in bad weather.
You may get a couple better features with the M223 scope but when I factor in what I like about the Bushnell glass plus the price difference it's not hard to choose the Bushnell and overlook a couple bells and whistles the Nikon may have.
Both the Bushnell Elite Tactical and the Nikon M223 scopes are great quality scopes.
They are FAR better scopes than something cheaper like the Bushnell AR223 or even the Nikon P223. I tried both of these as well but never bought either. The mushy turret function on the cheap scopes suck to the point that I can't see them as being reliable and repeatable if you were to actually make use of them.
In my opinion you only get what you pay for.

One last thing to point out is to get the Nikon scope with your standard 1/4 moa marked turrets. The one with the turrets already marked from 100 to 600 yards won't be spot on no matter how hard you try. Too many small variables to factor in. It's best to stick with the standard 1/4 moa turrets and then figure it out the old fashioned way.
 
Last edited:
kelaa said:
The no-name budget handguard from True North Arms is made of pretty soft aluminum. A lot of deburring required. I would want also to put something to link up the handguard rail to the receiver rail.
Click to expand...

So, take this with a grain of salt, but a lot of looking online leads me to believe that the 9 and 11 inch Troy Alpha rails can easily be modified to support the pump action. It should only require the milling of three slots as per the original 13 inch rail. This is a much easier task than your route with a different rail, but it uses the Troy rail with I honestly am not fond of.

The 9 inch rail would require some modification to the pic rail segments (chopping) in order to ensure they don't overhang the rail fully forward. I think a Magpul AFG would work on the segment and provide a bit of protection against throwing your hand forward into the barrel area. Alternatively a vertical grip would work very well.

The 11 inch rail doesn't really interest me because it's not that much of a change - I want to run a shorty barrel!

kelaa said:
The upper/lower receiver mating has some left/right play in the front pivot pin area that bothers me.
Click to expand...

I have the same issue. Not sure if it affects anything, probably not.
 
Shorty PAR anyone?

So, rather than buy a $200 9 inch Alpha Rail and then mill it, I just chopped the existing rail and the rail segments. A quick blast of flat black krypton and it looks good to me. The rail ends up being a little shorter than the 9 inch rail, so the 10.5 inch barrel is sticking out a bit more than I'd like.

At present the whole setup with stock collapsed is about 29 inches. I'll switch to an A2 birdcage hider soon so that will take an inch off. If Troy had given us a traditional mount for the buffer tube this would still just squeak by the 26 inches required to stay NR.

37939266856_a690d685f8_b.jpg


There is still plenty of rail left for grips and panels - I think I'll use a vertical grip so there is no risk of running the pump hand forward of the hand guard and onto or in front of the barrel.

24141328868_3ba0c3392a_b.jpg


Finally, through the rail slot you can see the size 9 steel ring that I used to cover the gas port. Since the 10.5 inch barrel has a carbine length gas system the further forward of the two sets of pump attachment screws do pass over the ring with each pump. I needed to trim the screws about 1/16 to 1/8 th of an inch to clear the ring.

37939266136_9f2dc28cd3_b.jpg


All told, it's a light and fast to point setup!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom