Let's see some pics of your Pimped out Troy PAR

Uisge said:
Ok update on the trigger tech, went out and the first 2 shells had light primer strikes. Despair! But being stubborn I took it home and had a look. First cleaned the firing pin and bore, nothing stuck out as being overly dirty, next look at trigger operation, when resting against the slide lock mechanism I noticed the trigger didn’t force the plunger all the way down. Hmmm initially I thought switch hammer springs, but with a drop in I was unsure about tearing it down, so the other spring involved is the slide release plunger. I have noticed this part is very stiff in the first place. I was going to chop a coil or 2 off when I realized it looks a lot like the spring out of a pen. So one pen later I slapped it back in and was pleased to find the bolt release was considerably lighter, more what you would expect from an 870 etc. I have not been able to make the bolt open without releasing it manually and I tried a variety of scenarios. I did not mortar it as I felt like this might be a little too extreme. The trigger pushes the release cam down fully now. Will hit the range and try it out. I realize the pen spring is probably of much lower quality then the original so if this works well enough I will probably source out a better spring for continued use. The upside is I still have the factory spring unmodified if I decide to return it to factory. Any thoughts from my fellow nuts? I in no way endorse or recommend this to anyone else, especially until I’ve tested it, but based on the design of the cam and continued function of the mechanism I feel this could be a decent upgrade.
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Hope the pen spring works good for you. I found the same issue with the TT in mine and simply clipped some coil from the factory spring and haven't had an issue since. Also as others mentioned, be sure to apply forward pressure to the pump mechanism to ensure proper bolt lockup.

Quoted from an earlier post of mine;
jiffx2781...The Trigger Tech functions perfectly. I did get a couple light strikes at first but quickly solved that by clipping a bit of coil from the spring on the slide release or bolt lock mechanism (or whatever you call it) that the hammer hits and pushes down when fired. Just enough to still allow it to function yet relieve some pressure that, I figure, wasn't allowing the hammer to hit with full force. Hasn't missed a beat since.
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Update on my shorty

Replaced the original mil-spec buffer tube with a LWRC Ultra Compact Stock Kit:

https://lwrci.com/p-361-uciw-ultra-compact-stock-kit.aspx

Which brings me down to a bit over 27" OAL fully collapsed. Also mounted my Romeo5 with a Geissele mount (I know the adjustment caps are of before some smartass mentions that...) and a Magpul VFG to the rail. Also an Inforce WML weapon light, Radian Ambi Safety and Triggertech trigger round out the work to date.

26649280729_9fc31ae326_b.jpg


Kitchen scale puts her at 2.832 kg or 6.24 lbs all up and ready to go less magazine. Points like a dream and I'm liking the new stock a LOT.

I'm hesitant to start cutting the bolt lock spring, but will do so if that will help with the light strikes. Would love to be able to shoot some cheap Barnaul I have kicking around.
 
jadam said:
Replaced the original mil-spec buffer tube with a LWRC Ultra Compact Stock Kit:

https://lwrci.com/p-361-uciw-ultra-compact-stock-kit.aspx

Which brings me down to a bit over 27" OAL fully collapsed. Also mounted my Romeo5 with a Geissele mount (I know the adjustment caps are of before some smartass mentions that...) and a Magpul VFG to the rail. Also an Inforce WML weapon light, Radian Ambi Safety and Triggertech trigger round out the work to date.

26649280729_9fc31ae326_b.jpg


Kitchen scale puts her at 2.832 kg or 6.24 lbs all up and ready to go less magazine. Points like a dream and I'm liking the new stock a LOT.

I'm hesitant to start cutting the bolt lock spring, but will do so if that will help with the light strikes. Would love to be able to shoot some cheap Barnaul I have kicking around.
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I can’t say for sure if it will help but a pen spring really was close in diameter and length. That way if it doesn’t work you still have the original spring to reinstall, that was my reasoning. May even find a nicer spring in a higher quality pen. I have tried every thing I could think of to accidentally on purpose release the slide and have had no luck accidentally unlocking it. It is easier to push the button now, I hope to find a happy medium between the pen spring and the original. I’ll run some hirty through it. The timney in my MH won’t ignite it every time so it should be a pretty good test.
 
Uisge said:
I can’t say for sure if it will help but a pen spring really was close in diameter and length. That way if it doesn’t work you still have the original spring to reinstall, that was my reasoning. May even find a nicer spring in a higher quality pen. I have tried every thing I could think of to accidentally on purpose release the slide and have had no luck accidentally unlocking it. It is easier to push the button now, I hope to find a happy medium between the pen spring and the original. I’ll run some hirty through it. The timney in my MH won’t ignite it every time so it should be a pretty good test.
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Sounds like a plan. Not sure how you measure springs, but perhaps someone in the know could look into that and find a lead on a source for replacements.
 
Generally you would measure the extended length and the length under a specific load. With these being such small springs it’s tough, I just squeezed them between my fingers and noted the resistance. The pen spring was lighter but longer relaxed. I’ll be tearing apart every pen I can think of to find the perfect spring but I will also look at work. Lots of valve poppets and similar things have springs like this, maybe I can find one with a part # to match.
 
MRCLARK said:
Anyone had any luck getting the flash hider/muzzle break off? Hopefully I can get it off with just a simple wrench I bought another that I want to try.
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Got two off no problem. Used a Geissele Reaction Rod to support the upper and an adjustable wrench and some masking tape to protect the brake. Was on snug, but not insane.

The barrel nut however was a fair bit of effort in both cases.
 
Uisge said:
Lots of valve poppets and similar things have springs like this, maybe I can find one with a part # to match.
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Fantastic. I have to pull mine to have a look, but Amazon has a few assortments of springs sets that if might give a handful of winners as well.
 
Uisge said:
3/4x24 not a lot of options, especially if your like me and just want a flash hider. Few brakes out there though, badger ord, Surefire, KAC. If anyone spots a kac flash hider in this thread let me know. They seem to be out of stock everywhere.
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FFS my muzzle/fake can break won't fit then. I just assumed it was a standard AR barrel thread. Why the hell would they do that. :(
 
i called Troy and they told me to use a Geissele Reaction Rod, i had assumed it was 5/8x24 until I removed the brake, but had already bought the precision Armament brake, so I had to order a special tap to make my brake work
 
EDIT: Looks like I was wayyyy off on the spring I suggested. Back to the drawing board....

At the moment I have a pen spring in there but that makes me a bit uncomfortable for the longer term. Will report back once I have springs in hand and can confirm they are compatible.

How many coils did the coil clippers chop off their springs?
 
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Curtis264 said:
i called Troy and they told me to use a Geissele Reaction Rod, i had assumed it was 5/8x24 until I removed the brake, but had already bought the precision Armament brake, so I had to order a special tap to make my brake work
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I have many YouTube videos on a number of PAR modifications including barrel changes. I used a regular AR15 vise block as I do on my AR's. Reaction rods can be used, but are unnecessary.
 
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