Let's see some pics of your Pimped out Troy PAR

^^^

Awesome.

Thanks!

I really wish we could convince Troy to sell uppers only. Especially the pistol model that was teased and never released (as far as I know...)

TROY_PumpPistol223_1.jpg
 
So, rather than buy a $200 9 inch Alpha Rail and then mill it, I just chopped the existing rail and the rail segments. A quick blast of flat black krypton and it looks good to me. The rail ends up being a little shorter than the 9 inch rail, so the 10.5 inch barrel is sticking out a bit more than I'd like.

At present the whole setup with stock collapsed is about 29 inches. I'll switch to an A2 birdcage hider soon so that will take an inch off. If Troy had given us a traditional mount for the buffer tube this would still just squeak by the 26 inches required to stay NR.

37939266856_a690d685f8_b.jpg


There is still plenty of rail left for grips and panels - I think I'll use a vertical grip so there is no risk of running the pump hand forward of the hand guard and onto or in front of the barrel.

24141328868_3ba0c3392a_b.jpg


Finally, through the rail slot you can see the size 9 steel ring that I used to cover the gas port. Since the 10.5 inch barrel has a carbine length gas system the further forward of the two sets of pump attachment screws do pass over the ring with each pump. I needed to trim the screws about 1/16 to 1/8 th of an inch to clear the ring.

37939266136_9f2dc28cd3_b.jpg


All told, it's a light and fast to point setup!
So much yes...
 
So, rather than buy a $200 9 inch Alpha Rail and then mill it, I just chopped the existing rail and the rail segments. A quick blast of flat black krypton and it looks good to me. The rail ends up being a little shorter than the 9 inch rail, so the 10.5 inch barrel is sticking out a bit more than I'd like.

At present the whole setup with stock collapsed is about 29 inches. I'll switch to an A2 birdcage hider soon so that will take an inch off. If Troy had given us a traditional mount for the buffer tube this would still just squeak by the 26 inches required to stay NR.

37939266856_a690d685f8_b.jpg


There is still plenty of rail left for grips and panels - I think I'll use a vertical grip so there is no risk of running the pump hand forward of the hand guard and onto or in front of the barrel.

24141328868_3ba0c3392a_b.jpg


Finally, through the rail slot you can see the size 9 steel ring that I used to cover the gas port. Since the 10.5 inch barrel has a carbine length gas system the further forward of the two sets of pump attachment screws do pass over the ring with each pump. I needed to trim the screws about 1/16 to 1/8 th of an inch to clear the ring.

37939266136_9f2dc28cd3_b.jpg


All told, it's a light and fast to point setup!

Very nice. I was thinking of doing up mine to go the DMR route with a longer barrel. Now I'm thinking shorter.
 
A while back I broke down and bought a second PAR (both 300 BO since I planned to barrel swap anyhow and they were cheapest) and have built that up with a 14.5 inch Ballistic Advantage Hanson mid-length barrel. Still have a bit of work to do on that one before I post it up. I plan to put a Triggertech adjustable in the original lower and will have a nice setup.

If the PARs go on crazy sale again I may just have to build a 20 inch heavy barrelled model too!
 
A lot of people seem to be buying the 300 black out? What's the advantage of the round? Easy to reload?

If I did one I'd do one like jadam and I'd go .300 since that round was designed for sbr rifles.

I like that I could reload pretty cheap by cutting down .223 brass and casting my own lead bullets. For me that's the appeal of the .300 round.
 
jadam that is exactly what I had in mind to do if I bought one of these guns. Sure turned out nice.

These guns probably wouldn't accept a compact stock like this

a0d934cff8685e5a8fedc8bbb583c694.jpg

Two issues with that kind of stock:

1. The 223/300 bolt face PARs have a weird buttstock interface for the folding stock from the national match models. Adds a good inch and change to the length of any sort of AR type buttstock and make interfacing difficult.

2. The overall length of the rifle completely collapsed and still operable (which is the case with that kind of stock) must be greater than 26 inches.

With that in mind, assuming your stock works on the PAR, I would suggest you run a 10.5 inch barrel and a Noveske KX5 which fits under the hand guard and barely pokes out. No chopping required! You should be really close to 26 inches with the buttstock collapsed.

You might also look into the Troy Airborne stock, as it’s cheaper than the really short ones that require a special buffer. Might also interface well with the PAR.
 
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A lot of people seem to be buying the 300 black out? What's the advantage of the round? Easy to reload?

I wasn’t clear above - both mine are 223. I only bought the 300 BO models because they were on sale. I have two 300 BO barrels that I have no idea what to do with as I swapped both for aftermarket 223 barrels.
 
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If I did one I'd do one like jadam and I'd go .300 since that round was designed for sbr rifles.

I like that I could reload pretty cheap by cutting down .223 brass and casting my own lead bullets. For me that's the appeal of the .300 round.

Very cool!

I’ve toyed with the idea of a Grendel or PPC upper too. Also just heard about 6x45mm which sounds pretty cool too.
 
I wasn’t clear above - both mine are 223. I only bought the 300 BO models because they were on sale. I have two barrels that I have no idea what to do with as I swapped both for aftermarket barrels.

EE may be you're friend. Someone with a 223 may want a 300 BO barrel to do a swap. You may get a few bucks out of them.
 
EE may be you're friend. Someone with a 223 may want a 300 BO barrel to do a swap. You may get a few bucks out of them.

That’s what I figured I do with them. Unfortunately you can’t shorten them. I think they also have a weird muzzle threading too, so the muzzle brakes are useless as well.
 
A chopped rail .308 with 10.5" barrel might be cool.

I almost did a 308, but the 308 barrels are so much more expensive than 223 ones. That and it’s not clear what bolt spec the large frame PARs use. If it’s DPMS, which I assume, lots of options. If you mismatch bolt and barrel extension (DPMS vs Armalite) I believe there can be unsafe headspace situations. Didn’t want to get into that. Also figured if I built up a large frame PAR I would want to go for accuracy since I already have the shorty.
 
Had both my PAR uppers out to the range today. A few light primer strikes on Rem 55 grain bulk with the ALG Defense ACT trigger installed (not sure which hammer spring...if it's the light one that makes more sense). The Barnaul cheap steel cased really didn't like the ALG trigger. Have a Triggertech on the way which seems to be working well for folks.
 
Ok update on the trigger tech, went out and the first 2 shells had light primer strikes. Despair! But being stubborn I took it home and had a look. First cleaned the firing pin and bore, nothing stuck out as being overly dirty, next look at trigger operation, when resting against the slide lock mechanism I noticed the trigger didn’t force the plunger all the way down. Hmmm initially I thought switch hammer springs, but with a drop in I was unsure about tearing it down, so the other spring involved is the slide release plunger. I have noticed this part is very stiff in the first place. I was going to chop a coil or 2 off when I realized it looks a lot like the spring out of a pen. So one pen later I slapped it back in and was pleased to find the bolt release was considerably lighter, more what you would expect from an 870 etc. I have not been able to make the bolt open without releasing it manually and I tried a variety of scenarios. I did not mortar it as I felt like this might be a little too extreme. The trigger pushes the release cam down fully now. Will hit the range and try it out. I realize the pen spring is probably of much lower quality then the original so if this works well enough I will probably source out a better spring for continued use. The upside is I still have the factory spring unmodified if I decide to return it to factory. Any thoughts from my fellow nuts? I in no way endorse or recommend this to anyone else, especially until I’ve tested it, but based on the design of the cam and continued function of the mechanism I feel this could be a decent upgrade.
 
I also had a few light primer strikes with the Triggertech, but I attributed that more likely to the slight amount of slack in the pumps setup and not slamming it forward hard enough and leaving it alone, or pressed forward when firing. It seems to me that as the hammer strikes the firing pin and bottoms out on the bolt release and lower receiver there is a period of time where the bolt release might be tripped and the firing pin may not have impacted completely with the primer.

Not sure if that was clear....

Keep us informed about the pen spring hack.
 
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