Leupold (knockoffs) Customers ????

Speaking of elevation. I cranked my M1 Mark4 knockoff all the way to the bottom. Then I cranked it all the way to the top.

Observations: 5 full turns @ 15 MOA per turn = 75 MOA from the bottom

Now depending on where YOUR scope with YOUR mounts zero for 100 meters , you will need (give or take) 35 MOA to get to 1000 yards with a .308 bullet (more give or take). Your mileage will vary (caliber, velocity, type of bullet).

There, does that help ? I've mounted my knockoff scopes on the CZ452 Varmint .22LR and also my M700 .223 Groundhog gitter. Do I need more elevation, Heck no....

If I was to do any serious work at 1000 meters, I would NOT be using knockoff and neither should anyone here, since you are wasting your time and energy. That's what the LR/T Leupolds (US Optics, Nightforce, Schmidt and Binderdundat) are truly for. Besides, there are very FEW CGNutters on this board that regularly shoot 1000m or more and they know what context I'm speaking from.

Leave the $ 100 +/- scopes for the 100 yard or so mound. Don't set yourself up for disappointment when you realize that the $ 100 Leupold Knockoff is not as repeatable as a Leupold LR/T Mark4 M3/M1.

Cheers,
Barney
 
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Hungry, thanks for the wise words, as usual. Any drift or inconsistencies in any scope will drive you insane if you LR shoot.

Appreciate the honest review.

Bushnell and Nikon are coming out with new scopes. Let's see what toys they dream up for us.

Jerry
 
I just got one. The side focus/parallax know doesn't do anything. It turns fine, but doesn't change the focus at all. Looks like it's fixed focus. I'm somewhat disappointed, but hey - it's just a cheapie.


Edit: no, wait - it does work. I just couldn't see anything at 3.5x. When I dial it up to 10x, there's a noticable effect.
 
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prosper said:
I just got one. The side focus/parallax know doesn't do anything. It turns fine, but doesn't change the focus at all. Looks like it's fixed focus. I'm somewhat disappointed, but hey - it's just a cheapie.


Edit: no, wait - it does work. I just couldn't see anything at 3.5x. When I dial it up to 10x, there's a noticable effect.
Click to expand...



I thought the same thing using it in the house but once out to the range it worked fine..... it is sensitive actually. only used mine out to 100 yds but it will focus in as close as 25 yds too :)
 
Tested one out further today, shot a few groups at a 100 mtrs as well as 500 mtrs. Focus worked just fine as far as I can tell. Have one mounted on a HB 223 as well as a M305/308. Time will tell for sure if the one on the M305 will hold up or not.
 
I want a lens shade for it now :)

From what I can find, there are pre-2005 and post-2005 models. Anyone know which shade it takes?
 
prosper said:
I want a lens shade for it now :)
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LIke this?:redface:

407192.jpg
 
Noobie Questions

OK, here goes.

I mounted my MK3 knockoff on an old Mauser 8 mm put in a new ATI synth stock. I used Millett 30mm windage adjustable med rings I bought at Le Baron Sat morning. The rings and scope went on quite nicely and the basic setup wasn't too far off using my Leopold boresighter (neat little gadget). Pretty close to level off the bat with only a slight windage change needed.

Went to SGC on the 100m range and started shooting (haven't fired this 60 year old gun in about 20 years). Decent groups for me. But, the gun shoots 6 inches too high with the elevation knob set as low as it can go!

1. What to do?
2. The left knob is for focus/parralax, correct? It has no effect on bullet drop, correct?

OK, helmet is on. Fire away. Appreciate any replies; preferably helpful. :p
 
Need to shim the front of your base to fix your problem. If it shoots too low then you need to shim the back of your base. There is a formula to work out the shim thickness but I don't have it on hand. Hope that helps.
 
2katz said:
Need to shim the front of your base to fix your problem. If it shoots too low then you need to shim the back of your base. There is a formula to work out the shim thickness but I don't have it on hand. Hope that helps.
Click to expand...

That does. It's what I assumed. But what material to use as a shim?

Thanks!
 
I have used an old hacksaw blade before cut on the bandsaw.... also go buy one of those feeler gauge set for sparkplugs.... use that cut to length.

Wes


Sharkson said:
That does. It's what I assumed. But what material to use as a shim?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
 
Always remember to recycle; a used aluminum pop can, perferably the Classic Coke can. :D
I'm only kidding on the brand, any one will work. It's free, easy to cut and shape and you can stack the shims as required.
 
D'oh!

2katz said:
Always remember to recycle; a used aluminum pop can, perferably the Classic Coke can. :D
I'm only kidding on the brand, any one will work. It's free, easy to cut and shape and you can stack the shims as required.
Click to expand...

Sounds easy enough. Lot's of aluminum cans around this place.

Much appreciated guys!

:)
 
OK found the formula:

Distance off target (A) divided by the distance you are shooting at (B) should equal the shim required (C) divided by the center to center distance of you rings (D). All these are in inches or millimeters.

A/B=C/D in inches and in your case by manipulating the basic equation it should be C=DxA/B in inches.

So lets say your center to center distance of your rings is 9" and you where shooting at 100 yards or 3600" and you needed 6" to bring it down then the shim required is:

9"x6"/3600" or .0150" thick on your front part of the base.

Keep in mind that this is all theoretical and in reality you may need a little more or less. Also that this shim thickness will only bring it down to the 6" but you would need a larger shim so you can have some more elevation adjustment.

What you need to do is find your mechanical zero on your scope, shoot at the distance you require and then shim as required to bring in your scope to the correct level.

Hope this helps.
 
For dovetail rings, I've had success using Millet Angle-Loc series of rings. Mysticplayer loves to use Burris Z -rings. Find out what works for you and your scope combination.

Enjoy the cheapie scopes. I've got the 2 already and for what I'm doing inside 200 yards, who gives a zhit ? LOL

Cheers,
Barney
 
Remove the turret ring and turn down the scope verticle stem with a pair of pliers if it is not bottomed out. Their are stops on the turret ring- cam thingy that are supposed to keep you from over or under dialing I belive. Some of my scopes have these, and some dont.
 
why keep the tip off scope mount.... go buy something with weaver cross slots and get some real rings....

for the 10/22 you need weaver T0-9.... and it is $13.00
 
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