M1 Garand issue and good gunsmith

HarveyDeRoy

HarveyDeRoy

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Hey all,

Bought a Danish receiver when they were dirt cheap and bought parts over a year and a half. Sent all the part to the local "gunsmith". The guy is more a machinist than gunsmith but ive know him for a bit. He did put the rifle together. I went to the range and IDed some issues

1- every casing would come out bent at the mouth

2- rifle shoot about 2' high at 100m

For issue #1, a local gunsmith (not the same, i moved since) kept telling me my M1 was prohibited, so bad start. He refused listening to me and then told me "its normal for the mouth of the casing to be bent, its a semi auto" being in the CAF for 20 years now and privately owning rifle for 12 years, i know its BS and broke all the possible trust i had with him so i took the rifle home.

Issue #2 i have no idea....

So long story short, does anyone have a good gunsmith that knows the M1 Garand? Id love to enjoy this rifle at the range and deer hunting. Willing to ship to a good smith!

Thanks

50534689-2024069794350433-9013313080557305856-n.jpg
 

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HarveyDeRoy said:
Hey all,

Bought a Danish receiver when they were dirt cheap and bought parts over a year and a half. Sent all the part to the local "gunsmith". The guy is more a machinist than gunsmith but ive know him for a bit. He did put the rifle together. I went to the range and IDed some issues

1- every casing would come out bent at the mouth

2- rifle shoot about 2' high at 100m

For issue #1, a local gunsmith (not the same, i moved since) kept telling me my M1 was prohibited, so bad start. He refused listening to me and then told me "its normal for the mouth of the casing to be bent, its a semi auto" being in the CAF for 20 years now and privately owning rifle for 12 years, i know its BS and broke all the possible trust i had with him so i took the rifle home.

Issue #2 i have no idea....

So long story short, does anyone have a good gunsmith that knows the M1 Garand? Id love to enjoy this rifle at the range and deer hunting. Willing to ship to a good smith!

Thanks
Click to expand...

1- every casing would come out bent at the mouth........ picture of casing ?
i would think extractor unless he did not finish ream it?
or it is short stroking and crushing the mouth... why need picture
or recoil spring

what ammo are you using for it?

you can change the rotation of the evelation dial for 100 ... google setting up m1 garand sights
 
2' high at 100 with the rear sight bottomed out?
If it comes to it, you could add a bit of metal to the tip of the front sight blade.

Dented case mouth could be caused by the ejected case striking part of the rifle.
 
Garand are extracting and ejecting hard and are hard on brass. It’s not abnormal nor an issue for new or almost new conditions M1
To do that.

Check you oprod for brass marks , make sure your rifle is well greased and lubed and check your ejection pattern ( 3/4 o’clock or 1 o’clock)

Also what ammo do you use. A bolt/oprod moving too fast could amplify the dent mouth issue.
 
Having the case mouths deformed on firing is quite common. This is caused by the fired case striking the hump of the op rod on ejection. You can see the brass deposits left on the hump by the fired case. If this is a concern it could probably be remedied by changing the extractor or the ejector spring. You can reform bent case mouths with a tapered punch before resizing them.

There's nothing objectionable about the rifle shooting 2 inches high @ 100 yds. That means that the rifle is zeroed at approx 200-225 yds. Point of impact can be lowered by lowering the rear sight aperture. If the rear sight is already at it's lowest limit of travel a higher front sight could be installed. There are manufacturing variations in front sight heights.
 
purple said:
Having the case mouths deformed on firing is quite common. This is caused by the fired case striking the hump of the op rod on ejection. You can see the brass deposits left on the hump by the fired case. If this is a concern it could probably be remedied by changing the extractor or the ejector spring. You can reform bent case mouths with a tapered punch before resizing them.

There's nothing objectionable about the rifle shooting 2 inches high @ 100 yds. That means that the rifle is zeroed at approx 200-225 yds. Point of impact can be lowered by lowering the rear sight aperture. If the rear sight is already at it's lowest limit of travel a higher front sight could be installed. There are manufacturing variations in front sight heights.
Click to expand...

2' not 2"

For front sight eight, it usualy just says "m1 garand front sight" on website. But i guess i could look into that
 
HarveyDeRoy said:
2' not 2"

For front sight eight, it usualy just says "m1 garand front sight" on website. But i guess i could look into that
Click to expand...

Whoa! 2 feet is a lot. Is your rear sight aperture at it's lowest limit? 8-12 clicks up from the bottom limit will normally produce a 200 yd zero. I'd remove the front sight and check it's height with a dial caliper. The front sight should measure .723-.728 from the bottom to the top of the blade. I've found several which were significantly less than that and they would cause a rifle to shoot high.
 
purple said:
Whoa! 2 feet is a lot. Is your rear sight aperture at it's lowest limit? 8-12 clicks up from the bottom limit will normally produce a 200 yd zero. I'd remove the front sight and check it's height with a dial caliper. The front sight should measure .723-.728 from the bottom to the top of the blade. I've found several which were significantly less than that and they would cause a rifle to shoot high.
Click to expand...

I'll measure when i get home tonight! thanks!
 
you assemble your rear sight from parts? I have seen National Match rear apertures installed on standard GI bases. If that is the case, the aperture will bottom out because the cup contacts the base. The NM base has that area relieved so the aperture will go lower. The solution for that is to get a NM base or, a standard aperture.

If those parts are all correct, you could try removing the aperture and filing a couple mm off the bottom of the comb. Should get you a couple clicks lower
 
Make sure the shoulder of the brass is not being crushed.
It could be low headspace and higher pressure load because of that.
I have headspace guages.
 
Joe Amorosi said:
you assemble your rear sight from parts? I have seen National Match rear apertures installed on standard GI bases. If that is the case, the aperture will bottom out because the cup contacts the base. The NM base has that area relieved so the aperture will go lower. The solution for that is to get a NM base or, a standard aperture.

If those parts are all correct, you could try removing the aperture and filing a couple mm off the bottom of the comb. Should get you a couple clicks lower
Click to expand...

I'll dissasemble the rear sight tonight and post a pic.



For the headspace i am pretty sure the first gunsmith used go-no go gauges. ill load a round and extract tonight see if there is any dmg
 
Research Garand and M14 ejector springs. Everything I read says Garand ejector spring will be shorter.
Maybe u have a longer M14 ejector spring in there? Which will interchange apparently. The wrong spring might be harder on your fired brass?
Just spitballing here.
 
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