M38 Jeep Restoration
- Thread starter Hawkshadow
- Start date
kohr varik
Regular
- Location
- Laval, Quebec
Like McDonald's says, I'm lovin it ! 
Love this thread! Great pics.
How the hell did you ever get one to go to 50 mpn??? It must have been a long downhill stretch.
And yes to both your safety tips.
Quite a day! Found the answer to the big transmission question mark, and worked it out.
To refresh: the transmission was stuck in reverse and wouldn't budge.
Started by removing the 6 bolts holding the shifter to the transmission.
It lifted right off and revealed the innards.
Instead of being filled with transmission fluid, it was filled with water! Luckily after I drained the fluid and gave it a good spray down with Krown, the damage doesn't appear too bad (well, not as bad as it could have been!)
Looking at the top half I found the cause of my issues.
While I'm not familiar with transmission terminology I'll try to explain. When the water seeped in, rust formed on the shaft that the shifter physically moves. It build up at the end near the housing and kept the shaft from moving the way it normally would.
I took it inside and thoroughly cleaned away as much as possible. Slowly the action freed up. I next used the milsurp method of boiling hot water cleaning, along with some good de-greasing soap. I found that dish soap works well generally, and powdered laundry soap is best for stubborn grease. Before you judge it, compare the finished product:
Not too shabby if I do say so myself. I dried and oiled the whole shebang and took it back out to the jeep. They were re-mated back together with no difficulty at all, and she shifts through all gears with no problem at all.
It will still need to be completely disassembled and cleaned, but that's a big load off of my mind!
To refresh: the transmission was stuck in reverse and wouldn't budge.
Started by removing the 6 bolts holding the shifter to the transmission.
It lifted right off and revealed the innards.
Instead of being filled with transmission fluid, it was filled with water!
Luckily after I drained the fluid and gave it a good spray down with Krown, the damage doesn't appear too bad (well, not as bad as it could have been!)Looking at the top half I found the cause of my issues.
While I'm not familiar with transmission terminology I'll try to explain. When the water seeped in, rust formed on the shaft that the shifter physically moves. It build up at the end near the housing and kept the shaft from moving the way it normally would.
I took it inside and thoroughly cleaned away as much as possible. Slowly the action freed up. I next used the milsurp method of boiling hot water cleaning, along with some good de-greasing soap. I found that dish soap works well generally, and powdered laundry soap is best for stubborn grease. Before you judge it, compare the finished product:
Not too shabby if I do say so myself
. I dried and oiled the whole shebang and took it back out to the jeep. They were re-mated back together with no difficulty at all, and she shifts through all gears with no problem at all.It will still need to be completely disassembled and cleaned, but that's a big load off of my mind!
This is a Great thread (One of my favorites) You are absolutely right about having the transmission disassembled the water that seized up the shifter rods also will ( pardon my language ) f@#$ up the input and output shaft bearings as well. Though the shift forks and blocker rings show little wear ( this is good ) Hopefully the rust on the gears will clean up ( if pitting is really bad then they should be replaced as well because the teeth that are affected by the pitting will be the first thing to break. I hate being a transmission mechanic always have to give bad news If you try to do this yourself and you have any questions I will be glad to help anyway I can
Cheers
Joe
You are absolutely right about having the transmission disassembled the water that seized up the shifter rods also will ( pardon my language ) f@#$ up the input and output shaft bearings as well. Though the shift forks and blocker rings show little wear ( this is good ) Hopefully the rust on the gears will clean up ( if pitting is really bad then they should be replaced as well because the teeth that are affected by the pitting will be the first thing to break. I hate being a transmission mechanic always have to give bad news If you try to do this yourself and you have any questions I will be glad to help anyway I can Cheers
Joe
Thanks for the input! I was pretty concerned that the whole thing was fubar'd right from the start and this was a huge relief. We'll see how it cleans up manually, but I'm still planning on sending it out for a professional once over.
My debate right now is whether I should send out the whole power plant (engine, tranny, and transfer) to 1 shop or if I should part it out to specialty shops. Trying to find the balance of cost, convenience, and wherein I'll find the best job. Thoughts?
My debate right now is whether I should send out the whole power plant (engine, tranny, and transfer) to 1 shop or if I should part it out to specialty shops. Trying to find the balance of cost, convenience, and wherein I'll find the best job. Thoughts?
spin the gears i bet the bottoms are rusted off or some teeth are wrecked
t90 parts are cheap Buy US made ONLY the offshore tranny parts are poorly made
I bought a novak kit for my 46 2a
you may also find once built that the shifter rails get oil in them and when you shift the end caps pop off I fixed it by drilling and tapping the metal inbetween them and puttung a flat bar across and bolting it on (common fix)
steering can be destroyed on these check and replace kingpin bearings noteing any shims........ I found local bearing suppliers to be cheap and able to get any bearings and seals needed...SAVE all parts NOTHING is garbage untill shes back together also take alot of pics sometimes its a long time before things get back together my cj2a took 5 years
t90 parts are cheap Buy US made ONLY the offshore tranny parts are poorly made
I bought a novak kit for my 46 2a
you may also find once built that the shifter rails get oil in them and when you shift the end caps pop off I fixed it by drilling and tapping the metal inbetween them and puttung a flat bar across and bolting it on (common fix)
steering can be destroyed on these check and replace kingpin bearings noteing any shims........ I found local bearing suppliers to be cheap and able to get any bearings and seals needed...SAVE all parts NOTHING is garbage untill shes back together also take alot of pics sometimes its a long time before things get back together my cj2a took 5 years
As for splitting the 3 majors apart and having them at two different shops ( engine at one, trans, transfer case at another) shouldn't matter to much unless cost is a major factor between the two. ( meaning if the fella you chose to do the motor can do all three cheaper then splitting them up. Would be more of a convenience I would think that way everything is in the same place and together). But if it is FAR cheaper to have them at different shops then that would be the way I would go ( Its not to hard to mate everything back together)
Cheers
Joe
Cheers
Joe
Thanks for the input gents. I'll be away for work over the next week, but when I get back I'll be sure to get some detailed pics of the state of the gears. I'm also planning on taking a peek at the transfer.
I'm definitely keeping every part that comes off (short of broken bolt heads). I've got a decent little system with ziploc bags for the small parts, and boxes for the larger ones.
I'm definitely keeping every part that comes off (short of broken bolt heads). I've got a decent little system with ziploc bags for the small parts, and boxes for the larger ones.
You're right, it is salvageable. But you'd spend a ton of time working on it and then in a few years you'd inevitably have problems again with rust showing up and bubbling your fresh paint.
Rust is like death and taxes.
I think the OP would be better off looking around for one that's less rusty. You'll save a ton of time and end up with a shiny rig that will last.
Just my two cents.
I started the day by taking off the cover on the back of the transfer case. Everything looks good, and the fluid in the bottom is correct gear oil (unlike the transmission was...).
However, looking at the picture I just noticed the marks on the one tooth at about 1130..
Next I attempted to remove the distributor. The top came off no problem, but after following the instructions in the pam the unit itself still wouldn't remove from the block. It says that after removing the mounting bolts on the back, turn the unit slightly and pull it towards the right side of the vehicle (pull it off). With effort it will turn slightly side to side, but does not want to lift off... Experience?
The regulator came off, and looks great inside with no signs of wear.
The carburetor was next. It came off with no issues, and looks good inside. It looks like there is water sitting in the intake manifold... It will be coming off very shortly.
Here is a side picture of the engine with the parts removed. I also removed the generator, belts, and oil filter.
However, looking at the picture I just noticed the marks on the one tooth at about 1130..
Next I attempted to remove the distributor. The top came off no problem, but after following the instructions in the pam the unit itself still wouldn't remove from the block. It says that after removing the mounting bolts on the back, turn the unit slightly and pull it towards the right side of the vehicle (pull it off). With effort it will turn slightly side to side, but does not want to lift off... Experience?
The regulator came off, and looks great inside with no signs of wear.
The carburetor was next. It came off with no issues, and looks good inside. It looks like there is water sitting in the intake manifold... It will be coming off very shortly.
Here is a side picture of the engine with the parts removed. I also removed the generator, belts, and oil filter.
