M38 Jeep Restoration

Thanks for all of the encouragement everyone!

XRCD011- The linex on the frame was something that I debated over for a very long time, and I'm sure that it will get many of the purists turning up their noses along with several of the other minor alterations that I'm making - mostly for safety. It likely would have been fine without it, but it's just that extra little bit of insurance and takes any worry out of the equation. It also strengthens the frame which is something that lends confidence to the 60 year old steel. I was sure to set it up so that seen items like the outside of the rear crossmember weren't coated. I'm not sure if the hat channels on these tubs come with the wood like they originally did, I'll have to check.
That's a great tip about the body seem sealer! Additionally, when it comes to paint does anyone have suggestions of how many coats of paint (or what mixtures with your hardeners) produce the best finish for durability? I know that I only have a single coat on there right now, but the durability is a little worrysome when I see some of the handling marks that are already showing up.

Claven: You and me both! The repro tubs are known to require minor fitting straight from the shop, similar to what you saw with the rear crossmember. Unfortunately that's the nature of the beast with repro products produced on old jigs and equipment. What I did do to minimize those problems on both the frame and tub was put bolts in every single hole that I could find before it went in to keep everything as clean as possible.

Vettes: It's hard stopping to take pictures - especially when you're working alone and have greasy hands! Unlike the tear-down where you were taking pictures to refer to later, (which is suggestion #1 for anyone attempting this. LOTS of pictures!) during reassembly it often feels like you're taking pictures solely to share with others and to keep in the build binder for later.

Johg2: It's quite the process isn't it? The tranny and transfer are up next which should be quite interesting. I ordered the overdrive and a couple of other parts from Herm. As you mentioned, a great guy to deal with. I'm looking forward to seeing how this new 30% unit performs. I know exactly what you mean about the militaria... I have already started picking up small items here and there for whatever reason. P37 webbing... helmet (which I'm still looking to find a liner for if anyone has suggestions) etc. The offer for small bits is greatly appreciated!

Thanks again for the encouragement and positive feedback. It make the process much more enjoyable to be able to share it with others.
 
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Nice one. I recently bought a 47 willys. I was climbing some steep banks in the little bugger today!
 
Hi Hawkshadow, there will be wood inside the hats so the channel does not crush when bolting tub to frame. Not a huge deal as long as things are kept reasonably dry, might be worthwhile to roll the tub over and seam seal anything and everything that may allow water into the channels. What colour did you shoot on the tub? As for "bling" like webbing and helmets and such while nice to have you really do not need to go overboard. I was at a show one time and another MB was there literally buried under crap, I knew there was a MB under all the stuff piled on top as I could see the tires underneath. Sometimes less is more. In June the OMVA has a swap meet in Oshawa where all the local venders show up BTW.
 
I had a 46 willys until i sold it to a guy that has actually done something with it. Next time ill get one thats already restored as i still love these things. Very cool build.
 
Today was a very big day... It took a bit of work but a rolling chassis was born!!

How to:

Attach the springs to the front axle and roll it all in to place
IMGP2453_zpsef4da65f.jpg


Attach spring shackles and add brand new monroe shocks
IMGP2459_zps41220e8f.jpg


Repeat with the rear axle, and...
A chassis is born!
IMGP2458_zps08a351e7.jpg


Moving on to the transmission.
Here she is separated from the transfer case and bell housing.
IMGP2463_zpsf05ad8f0.jpg


Once all of the grease was removed the bell housing is the same ford tractor grey as the engine
IMGP2462_zpsd96fcfdf.jpg
 
I trust when its paint time for the shocks and steering your going to hit the diff cover also, but leave the rear one white. Getting a rolling chassis up on all four is a milestone, good work.
 
Today was a very big day... It took a bit of work but a rolling chassis was born!!

How to:

Attach the springs to the front axle and roll it all in to place
IMGP2453_zpsef4da65f.jpg


Attach spring shackles and add brand new monroe shocks
IMGP2459_zps41220e8f.jpg


Repeat with the rear axle, and...
A chassis is born!
IMGP2458_zps08a351e7.jpg


Moving on to the transmission.
Here she is separated from the transfer case and bell housing.
IMGP2463_zpsf05ad8f0.jpg


Once all of the grease was removed the bell housing is the same ford tractor grey as the engine
IMGP2462_zpsd96fcfdf.jpg

Why did you paint the front differential case white?

The reason for painting the rear diff case white was to shine a convoy light on it so that the following vehicle (driving blackout conditions) could follow.

There is no practical or operational reason for painting a front diff white.

Yeah, picky, picky, picky...but historically correct.
 
Antiqueguy - what is this new magic?

Claven - yes, they will be green. I've realised that it will be a little more work doing them mounted but I couldn't resist getting them on!

XRCD011 + Rule 303 - yes the front diff cover will be green. Currently it is just primed as it was cleaned seperately from the housing. You will notice that it is the same grey primer used on other parts throughout the project. And for the back cover, I believe it is just the raised section that is white and not necessarily the whole thing? Just enough for the convoy light to illuminate.

Thanks again for following along.
 
Hi Hawkshadow...Nice work...Enjoyed following your progress...Here's a few pics of my M38 project..Nearly complete and now applying paint..I was hoping to get it on the road for the summer, but as you probably well know it all takes a lot longer than anticipated...
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Antiqueguy - what is this new magic?

Claven - yes, they will be green. I've realised that it will be a little more work doing them mounted but I couldn't resist getting them on!

XRCD011 + Rule 303 - yes the front diff cover will be green. Currently it is just primed as it was cleaned seperately from the housing. You will notice that it is the same grey primer used on other parts throughout the project. And for the back cover, I believe it is just the raised section that is white and not necessarily the whole thing? Just enough for the convoy light to illuminate.

Thanks again for following along.
Correct on just the diff cover being painted white, now that your point out that its the primer in contrast to the dark green I stand corrected. Did you source the low watt lamp for the underside. And along with that weld on the fitting to mount it? I had a fun filled time mounting the ketts fork last week, what a pain that turned out to be.
 
Luckily I still have the convoy light that came off of it, and was able to source another once recently in case of any problems.

TonmyinBC - yours is coming along quite nicely!! I have started reading up on matte clear coats for the paint because I'm finding that the stock paint on its own is not very durable at all. Admittedly I only have 1 layer on right now but the paint needs to be durable enough to not come off the floors if you jump in with dirty shoes or throw kit in the back.
 
Luckily I still have the convoy light that came off of it, and was able to source another once recently in case of any problems.

TonmyinBC - yours is coming along quite nicely!! I have started reading up on matte clear coats for the paint because I'm finding that the stock paint on its own is not very durable at all. Admittedly I only have 1 layer on right now but the paint needs to be durable enough to not come off the floors if you jump in with dirty shoes or throw kit in the back.

Hawkshadow...I've applied two good coats (mixed paint with 10% varsol) over those parts I have done (mainly underside) and it seems fine...Just takes a while to harden up..Most of the guys I know, just seem to have a few rubber mats inside the vehicle or prefer the 'worn' look, which is the way I like it....A few dings, scratches and scuffs just adds character. The nice thing with these vehicles is that you can just get the spay gun out and touch up if required...:)
 
Antiqueguy - what is this new magic?

Claven - yes, they will be green. I've realised that it will be a little more work doing them mounted but I couldn't resist getting them on!

XRCD011 + Rule 303 - yes the front diff cover will be green. Currently it is just primed as it was cleaned seperately from the housing. You will notice that it is the same grey primer used on other parts throughout the project. And for the back cover, I believe it is just the raised section that is white and not necessarily the whole thing? Just enough for the convoy light to illuminate.

Thanks again for following along.

POR 15 its a 3 step process that kills rust and seals the metal been around for quite some time but first time I heard about it was this year we never used it in the body shop so I had no idea it even existed
 
POR 15 its a 3 step process that kills rust and seals the metal been around for quite some time but first time I heard about it was this year we never used it in the body shop so I had no idea it even existed

I used POR15 to seal the inside of the gas tank...for pin holes and around the tank seams it seems to of worked really well..Proper preparation of the area is vital for it to seal properly....Expensive stuff, but it enabled me to keep the original gas tank so all in all it worked out great...
 
I've heard about POR 15 but have yet to try it. It isn't the easiest product to find in a store. Everything I've heard is positive though.

For the paint, I'll shoot another coat of paint in the spring when it gets warm enough and then see how it sets up.
 
I've heard about POR 15 but have yet to try it. It isn't the easiest product to find in a store. Everything I've heard is positive though.

For the paint, I'll shoot another coat of paint in the spring when it gets warm enough and then see how it sets up.

not easy to find at all here in Windsor only the main auto body supply has it and only in gallon cans they have lots of products under the POR brand even proper gas tank sealer :p

worked ok on a jeep door that I had to blast about a 1/8" layer of bondo off of to find someone used it over rust/pitting some people need their tools confiscated
 
On one of my vehicles that has two, very rare and original, gas tanks I VERY carefully used a angle head grinder to buzz down the welds holding the top panel on. I had the interiors sandblasted as there was a lot of rust and scale and with the internal baffles and braces there was no other way to get the insides clean. I bought a 1L can of POR15 gas tank sealer and painted the insides. Rewelded the top panels and painted POR15 all along the welds. By not wearing gloves I had to walk about a couple of days with hands that made me look like the Tin Man from the Wizard of Oz.
 
Hmm I may have to take another look at the original one that came with mine. At some point it had been re-lined and coated on the outside with some sort of rubberized product. If taking it apart doesn't prove too difficult it may make a good project down the road (hopefully literally once I get this thing going).

The tub on the other hand.... is probably too far gone... covered in bondo and pretty well rotted out. I don't know if it could ever be brought back.
 
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