More Swiss 1882 cartridge ideas...

Nagant brass seems to work well in your Swede. I am looking to possibly purchase a Swede, but only if it can use the same reloads as my Swiss. Have you tried Starline 32-20? The rims are thinner than Rem and Win brands.
 
Nop, I have not tried Starline brass. I have maybe 200 cases of Win brass which I use only for Swiss. The 1887 can take the cartridge with 32-20 case, cylinder rotates and all, but when 2-3 rounds fired and brass expands cylinder is hard to rotate or it jams up completely. With Nagant brass it works as it should. Swiss has more headspace than 1887 so if starline has thinner rims it may work in it I don't know for sure.
I guess you have to get one to try:)
 
I sometimes had the same problem with my Swiss using Winchester 32-20 brass. Remington brass seems to work ~95% of the time without cylinder binding. Starline works 100% of the time. It has thinner rims. If you could test it on your Swede, it may convince me to add a Swede to my collection.
 
So reading through this thread as soon I would like to try my new 1882 Swiss Revolver, the recommended die set is either 32 S&W or .30 Carbine? I am going to be using 100 pieces of trimmed down once fired Fiocchi Nagant Revolver ammo to make the brass.
 
Get the 30 Carbine die... it will resize to the right dimensions.

As for the expander die and seating die... I have good luck with the 30 Luger set. Other's prefer the 32 S&W die set. It takes a bit of experimentation.

The Nagant brass will work well... I've tried it. The rims are thin, and as a bonus, its pretty heavy duty brass. 32-20 brass is more delicate.
See my first pic in this thread... it shows a Swiss-ready Nagant round resized in a 30 Carbine die. I used the factory Nagant bullet, deep seated. Fairly accurate.
 
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I have most of it made. Butt-plate just needs some minor fitting now (mainly attaching screws and taking 50thou off one side, which will be a pain).

The adapter I am looking at having to use the die set and make it deeper for the pin, file the pin shorter from the top, then re-attach the button head. Once that is done I need to needle file the slot for the hole quite a fair bit more (likely at least 2 hours for that) and I still need to finish the actual latch, the one I made might not be good enough and I might have to re-make it.

Overall likely at least 10 more hours worth of effort, and my motivation for it has faded for the moment. Likely next week I will get back at it, but I needed a break from it, particularly when I assembled most the parts for the adapter, and they didn't work requiring a fair bit of re-fitting/re-making to get them to work properly. Just really frustrating when you think your on your final steps, and once you get it all fitted together realizing there is a lot more work left.
 
I hear you... and you likely have way more patience that I! :)

I always appreciate people that think outside the box.

BTW, your enthusiasm will regain energy once you fire your Swiss... they are amazing little revolvers.
 
diopter said:
Any reason why .32S&W Long/.32H&R Mag/.327 Fed Mag dies can't be used?

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/49...d-w-long-32-h-and-r-magnum-327-federal-magnum

Is it necessary to bring the neck down to .30 caliber?
Click to expand...

32 S&W Long shoot fine, in a pinch. The problem is that most of the cases bulge, though I've never had a split case. Funny enough, they shoot pretty accurately from my Swiss 1882. Once you shoot proper handloads though, you see tighter groups, no bulges, and of course, you can load up a bit more than the anemic 715 fps that factory Remington 32 S&W Long offer.
 
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Well, it had to happen eventually.

I found some Trail Boss! Got two jugs of it and was pretty thrilled, as I have been looking for some in stock for about two years now.

Gotta get off my butt and cast some bullets, I guess...

Cheers
Trev
 
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