More Swiss 1882 cartridge ideas...

Perhaps consider filling the barrel with a copper dissolving solvent next time? That should eat away enough jacket eventually to just slip them out. I'm not sure I'd want to be sticking drill bits into my barrel...
 
Awesome thanks for the information. I don't mind trimming I prefer it over thinning.

The Kurgan, how fast are those 72 grain fmjs going do you think? Have you ever chronographed the load? That seems like it would be really up there in FPS.

I have not chronographed the 72 grain FMJs, but I have with other loads and bullet combos. They are flying at over 1000fps for sure, and likely closer to 1100fps with 3.1 grains of Trail Boss. I plan to do some chronying this summer for some new loads I made for my BSA 310 Cadet. At that time I will measure the velocity of my 72 grain FMJ "bore cleaners" .
 
Well for those interested I finally got the rest of the copper jackets out of the barrel. I had to drill out the copper jackets using a drill almost the diameter of the bore. Surprisingly no ringing or bulges, only a slight bit of damage in one location, likely due to the attempt to beat out the bullets. Overall the bore is basically back it what it was before, and now I am a bit more knowledgable. Maybe this weekend I might try to take it out again this time with a better loading.

I literally gasped out loud when I read "drill out the copper jackets using a drill almost the diameter of the bore". I jumped in my seat and my heart raced a little.

I'm better now. Thanks for asking.

I had a slug and busted dowels stuck in the bore of an AG-42B. The dowels were wedged in there pretty tight. That 6.5mm was jammed good and proper.

I soaked the bore with Liquid Wrench for weeks, but I don't think that was necessary. What got the stuff out was a little bit of heat. A few minutes with a paint stripper gun on the barrel and the blockage tapped out very readily with a cleaning rod.

Not much heat was needed. I could touch the metal with bare hands. It was hot to the touch and I would not be able to hold it for long without gloves, but it did not get hot enough to damage the metal.

If you get things stuck again, try a bit of heat to expand the bore a bit. Does not take much!
 
The problem was more that there was 3 of them pressed together in the bore rather than 1 bullet. I have successfully removed one bullet several times from different firearms, I actually have a brass dowel for that purpose. When I was trying to whack it out, the bore was getting quite hot, basically to the point you describe. The bullets didn't even budge.

When you think about it a drill bit isn't actually the worst idea there is (I always recommend less destructive means before trying to drill it), simply because it doesn't really cut on the horizontal axis. Overall it was a interesting experience I never want to do again. Hopefully I will find some time to reload some ammo for this weekend, and give it another go this time with more powder and hopefully significantly less problems.
 
Higher pressure loads worked great. Pistol seemed fairly accurate too, its me that isn't. My next issue for the load is I am having a tough time keeping enough neck tension to hold the bullet in place. My first loading had the crimp from the 7.62 Nagant brass holding the bullet nice and tight, now after firing it twice the crimp seems to have 'ironed' itself out and the bullets aren't being held in place. Does anyone know what type of crimp die would best hold to hold the bullets?

Here is my results from the shooting.
 
What distance is that at? I have a 32 s and w crimp die for my 32-20 trimmed cases. Maybe that would work for the nagant brass i assume it would. I have some nagant brass on order i could let you know in a few days. What are you crimping with currently?
 
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The distance ranged from 10m to 25m. I am currently not crimping, I am using a .30 Carbine decapping die, and a .30 Carbine seating die, which worked when the brass was freshly trimmed, but now I need a crimp die of some sort as there isn't enough neck tension otherwise.
 
My latest loads are .32-20 cases trimmed to ordnance 24mm length, sized in .30 carbine dies, seated with 7.62 Para sizer, and crimped with a cobbled together Para seater.

I use lapua .314 98gr HBWC seated flush and roll crimped with 1.8gr of HP38 for 750fps, very accurate and consistent.

My other load is a H+N 100gr .314 wadcutters crimped into the top grease groove with 1.9gr of titegroup for 775fps. Also very accurate and consistent.

My loads with the 110gr jethunter cast with 2.7gr of unique get about 750fps but are not as consistent, still accurate though.
 
I took the old girl to the range today. I blew through a box of old Dominion (and D&C Co.) S&W Long police ammo (.32 Colt New Police). Some was 1950's production (138 ft. lbs muzzle energy) and some was 1930's production (even stouter). As you can see in the photos, the brass exhibited minor bulging as usual, but no splits. The ammo was quite accurate and clean burning. My handloads produced about 1.5 inch groups at 15 metres while the old Dominion commercial ammo was about 2 to 3 inches at 15 metres.

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Piecing together my kit to reload for this caliber..

I have found that the Lee 30 Luger seating die is not compatible with my Jethunter .314 bullets. The bullets are too wide.

The bullets seem to slide easily into Starline 32-20 case trimmed to 23mm and sized in a 30 carbine die. The neck tension from seating would happen further into the case where the brass thickens. I was hoping that a 32 S&W long seating die would solve all of this.

However, the 32 S&W long seater die is too narrow at the base to allow the case to enter far enough to apply a crimp while seating. I think the only way around this is to use a longer case, either uncut or slightly cut. This would provide better neck tension as the case mouth will be narrower from tapered 30 carbine sizing die, and the case will be long enough to reach the crimp ring in the 32 s&w long seater die.
 
Ok lets see how they chamber

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Uncut case:
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Case cut to 23mm:
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There is a tiny bit of free space toward the base of the casing, but once the cases are fire formed and then resized again I am sure they will fit even better. Currently my 30 carbine die doesn't quite size the base of the case.
 
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