Most accurate 22 semi-auto

I put a Boyds Thumbhole stock on my Marlin 795 -it looks good, shoots good and feels good-it would be close to perfect-IF they would do something about that AWFUL trigger.Funny-I shot a 30 year old marlin .22 that has a trigger way better...

I have noticed the triggers are getting worse over the past few years or so. the action parts needs to be properly fitted together, clean and deburred when it's assembled for the trigger to be light, and because the trigger itself is not attached to the action, rather the trigger guard, i would have to suspect that a company that does not want to spend much time fiddling with proper fitting... coughremington, cough... that tolerances have opened up to make assembly go faster, resulting in less need for quality control and allowing for more trigger creep.

I would agree with you on that though, the modern triggers leave me wanting. However im somewhat handy so all my marlins have had an action job/parts polish, and i install small grub screws to the triggers and hand fit them to eliminate the pre-travel.

Still awesome value for the money. An easy trick to reduce pull weight is just remove the trigger return spring all together. Shaves 1lb off the pull and it's not a necessary part for the gun to function. It will return when the hammer resets, but it helps if you have already removed the pre-travel with a grub screw.
 
If you polish some of the internals on the 795 the trigger breaks a lot more crisply after the little bit of take-up. There is a trigger job one can do that entails cutting one coil from the hammer spring, replacing the trigger spring with one from a floppy disc and a few other things.
I have had only one FTF caused by no primer compound in the CCI Blazer cartridge I shot through it. Other than that, it extracts everything it shoots. Accuracy is surprising. The rifle is quite light and feels shorter than it actually is.
I agree with ratherbefishin, in that if Marlin or some other company were to make a better trigger for this rifle, Marlin would be hard pressed to keep production levels high enough to keep up with demand for it. A very good small game rifle with the benefit of being semi-automatic, light and affordable. When shooting squirrels or other small game, would an expensive, heavy, super-accurate rifle really be more advantageous if only shooting within fifty yards?
 
597's have a tarnished reputation, largely as a result of Remington's shoddy QC.

First, they had mag issues with early generations of magazines. They resolved this with the 3rd gen metal mags. This alone caused a tarnished reputation. Never mind the guide rod screws being too tight from the factory, causing many more FTE's.

Then, the .17HMR model was discontinued and owners got a slap in the face $200 offer. More tarnish.

Frankly, they're misunderstood, but an absolutely solid rifle. Just make sure the guide rod screws aren't too tight, and avoid the 30 round magazines, and its pretty reliable. Add a VQ hammer and extractor, and you're golden. They give 10/22's a run for their money.

X2

I've had too many .22s to remember over the years. I've had a few 10/22s that fed any ammo but accuracy was only medocre. I've now had 4 different 597s myself that were bought cheap because of perceived issues. They have to be the most accurate semi auto .22s for under $200. Lebarons has a 3-9x scoped 597 package for $199+ taxes, great value in my opinion.

The first thing that need to be done with any 597 is remove the action from the stock and slack off the set screws for the bolt guide rods. Every single one I have come across with feeding issues has had the set screws tightened up againts the guide rods causing them to bend just enough to drag on the bolt. I loosen them until the set screws are just flush with the rear of the receiver, the stock will prevent anything from coming out once assembled. don't lube the guide rods either, clean and dry is the way to go.

-CZ
 
I just took apart my 597 yesterday and did the full guide rod thing. Took them right out this time, cleaned then and put them back in loose like mentioned above. I hope it helps. The spring on the magazine hold open latch is broken so I hope that isn't part of the issue. But I did lube up the action. Hope that won't be a prob.

But even with the odd jamming issue. I still shoot this more than anything. Even on a non vtr 597 make sure to put on a tactical scope or one with a mildot reticle. It's just too fun shooting at 200 yards with a .22
 
Well....I just put in an order for a 795...thats for the input everyone!

Pretty happy that it came in way under budget, only $140 plus tax/shipping but had a $25 mail in rebate. Worse comes to worse, it'll be a great starter gun for my son.
 
Well....I just put in an order for a 795...thats for the input everyone!

Pretty happy that it came in way under budget, only $140 plus tax/shipping but had a $25 mail in rebate. Worse comes to worse, it'll be a great starter gun for my son.

I doubt you'll be disappointed. Even with the trigger that takes a bit of getting used to, it'll still shoot tighter than the competition. You'll have to give us a review once you make it out to the range with it!
:cheers:
 
I doubt you'll be disappointed. Even with the trigger that takes a bit of getting used to, it'll still shoot tighter than the competition. You'll have to give us a review once you make it out to the range with it!
:cheers:

For sure...there must be some mods or a trigger job that I can do to make that better?
 
For sure...there must be some mods or a trigger job that I can do to make that better?

There are indeed! But you need to be fairly mechanically inclined and good at working with small parts.

On my marlins i drill a small hole in the trigger where it contacts the sear disconnect. I then tap it and install a grub screw so i can adjust the gap between the trigger and disconnect. This eliminates the pre-travel, and by doing so you can then completely remove the trigger return spring which lightens the pull by one pond right there.

Also something i do is completely disassemble the action and polish all the moving parts. The transfer bar for example slides along the side action side plate and you can effectively remove 75% of the bearing surface which will also lighten the pull by a pound or two. giving all the parts a good polish goes a LONG way! You can also fiddle with springs and that, but you can ruin it just as easy doing that.

Here are some great resources;

This guy is a riot to listen to, but he knows how to race tune the marlin action... watch all 4 parts when you have the time.
[youtube]QcoZlNEDSF4[/youtube]

And this article 'splains it all in clear english. If you scroll 3/4 the way down the page or so you'll see the grub screw im talking about installed in the trigger.

http://votefordavid.########.com/2009/02/marlin-model-60-trigger-job.html
 
i guess I'm late to the part. I have a 10/22 that is all stock parts and I just came in from shooting 5/8 to 3/4 inch groups at 40 yards. Not a tack driver but it is more than enough for hunting which is what I plan on using it for.
 
I just bought a Savage 64 TRR SR from Epps as well, I'm hoping that it shows up tomorrow!

I also picked up a new BSA Sweet .22 6-18x40 scope as well for $50. Should make for a pretty decent setup for under $400 after taxes and shipping!
 
Not to hijack, but how do owners like their 597s? I've been thinking about picking one of those up. Reliability, accuracy, overall value, etc.

I have a base model 597. I love it. The stock sights are great and mine has never had a jam or feeding issue. Id say it shoots damn well for a 180$ gun. I know alot of people here hate them, but personally I love mine and my best friend has had nothing but good things to say about his.
 
i have a base model 597. I love it. The stock sights are great and mine has never had a jam or feeding issue. Id say it shoots damn well for a 180$ gun. I know alot of people here hate them, but personally i love mine and my best friend has had nothing but good things to say about his.

I agree, I would recommend the 597 too.
 
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