My New Norc M4 meets Mr. Cutoff Wheel

Suputin said:
Note to self: Don't send Jerry my AR to work on :slap:
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I certainly have no interest in playing with any more Norc's.

I would love to see if these front site blocks will work on the Norc taper pins and how much force is required to get them to move. I hit them pretty darn hard and did nothing to the pins.

I can see from the markings on the opposite side, a pretty big press was used to install. Those pins are in and really have no intention of coming out.

If anyone has a Norc and these front blocks, let us know how it was to remove.

I would especially like to hear what it took to get the barrel nut off without resorting to cutting.

Believe me, this level of surgery is not something I expected from a 'modular' GI rifle. The parts should have come off with min effort. The force required was extreme and things were assembled with a little too much gusto. For someone using it orig or near orig, they will be thrilled at never having anything come loose. But for modding - GRRRRR.

The quality of material used in this Norc is excellent. So far I have seen nothing to fault. Only the final polish/finish is not top US quality but that doesn't bug me given its intended use.

The rifle is assembled and I will post more pics later. Turned out very nicely without a single scratch.

Jerry
 
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There you go...The one part I am really liking is the Magpul BAD release lever. Sure makes bolt release so much easier.

More bullets should be arriving shortly and will try and get this rig shooting MOA.

Having lots of fun...

Jerry

PS, the orig flash hider came off very easily and the new one went on without fuss.
 
Hi Jerry I have removed and reinstalled about 20 of the norc front sight bases. This was what I learned first the back side must be well supported no movement of the gun when you hit that pin. Second take a punch 1/8 and grind cut it down to about 1/8 long now with rifle supported make sure punch is lined up and hit hard with a 4 pound short sleage, the pin should fly out if not it should have started to move now switch to regular punch for final removal.
 
Everytime I hear SLEDGEHAMMER and rifle, I cring.

I know the right block set up can protect the parts but....

That is why I went with the cutting wheel. didn't want the parts anyways and I am whole lot more accurate with a Dremel then a big piece of iron at the end of a stick.

you definitely reinforced what I suspected, the pins are in and they need some serious force to get out.

did you have any methods to remove the barrel nut?

Jerry
 
Thanks,

YHM - block/sight, rail, Flash hider.

Magpul - grip, rear sight, eventually rear stock, trigger guard, BAD.

OD rail guards.

Trigger adjusted for a way better pull. Might put in a Timney to see.

Optics is a fakepoint and mount. Also have a Burris PEPR holding a scope.

Shot it this morning and it went bang and functioned just fine.

Now to see if there is any improvement in accuracy - new bullets should be arriving today.

Will keep you guys posted.

Jerry
 
What i suspect you needed was a strong support for the bottom side of the sight, an appropriate punch and a 40 to 48 oz ballpeen. If i can split brake rotors with that hammer, i gotta be able to separate some taper pins. Without a support most of your effort is wasted.
 
This thread is awesome! I love that the Norinco M4 is so tough!!! Nice finish or not, Huntress & I are looking forward to receiving our two rifles!

Cheers
Jay
 
[Oh, forgot to mention, the top of the Norc rail DOES NOT LINE UP with the top of this YHM rail. Not sure if it ever was supposed to but if you are going to use a HG type front sight, you may have issues with height.

I kind of assume that these rails should all be on the same level for sights to work?????

The rear lines up just fine with the gas block sight I have used and the Norc barrel is indeed the perfect 0.750" diameter and all other dimensions were spot on. Install was a breeze.

Something to keep in mind if you are going to cut the front sight when putting on the rail.]

CORRECTION - The norc receiver and YHM rail DO line up. the bevel which defines the rail is at the same location or close enough to not matter. The TOP of the rails are a bit different in height but this doesn't matter as any accessories indexs off the bevel. A rail front sight should work just fine.


Jerry
 
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GrensVegter said:
Hi Jerry I have removed and reinstalled about 20 of the norc front sight bases. This was what I learned first the back side must be well supported no movement of the gun when you hit that pin. Second take a punch 1/8 and grind cut it down to about 1/8 long now with rifle supported make sure punch is lined up and hit hard with a 4 pound short sleage, the pin should fly out if not it should have started to move now switch to regular punch for final removal.
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x2, plus a torch to heat things if you get a wicked snug one. My sight pins were never coming out without heat, my neighbor is a bike mechanic used to using brute strength on toys, and he couldn't budge 'em until we heat things...
 
Just watch not too much heat. Chrome lined barrels may flake and I would not want to change the steels temper.

Appreciate the kind word. It worked out very nicely and balances superbly. Having lots of fun blasting away with ARMSCOR and PRVI fmj's.

I am going to be bad and not clean it for a while and see what happens. It got a general wipe down at 300rds just to make sure there were no alum/steel flakes anywhere but basically it has not been detailed cleaned.

Will look at it again at 600rds and see what happens.

I have found a reduced load using WC735 that shoots great, cycles the action but shouldn't put any real stress on the parts. I am just CQB plinking anyways.

I have worked up 3 grs more to get similar accuracy and this is a hot load. The M4 handled it nicely but there were signs of primer flattening. Cases take more effort to size too.

I will stay with the low load even though it is dirtier - should help this rifle last a good long time.

Jerry
 
from the looks of the barrel nut (i've never touched one in my life) I'd start with the wrench, then try wrench plus heat. If all else fails try heat, quench and pound with a flat punch on an angle (brass if reusing the barrel nut, tool steel if not). If you plan to do a bunch you could fab up a wrench with a 1/2" square drive to hook up to a fan/clutch tool.
 
did a simple test to see how long the throat is on my M4. Yep, it has the typical 556 chamber - LONG HONKING THROAT. Great for blasting, lousy for accuracy.

I will not bother pursuing any accuracy testing with this barrel and just enjoy if for what it is.

Down the road, I may put on a prefit Shilen or McGowen just to see what a match barrel with a quality chamber/throat can do. I expect it so shoot just like the multitude of rifles that have been converted to match shooting in the US and Canada.

sub MOA with proper handloads.

Any ideas how many rds this chrome lined barrel should give us?

Jerry
 
While not pretty, your work has resulted in a very pretty rifle... That lady deserves some range time. Enjoy!

And congrats, even if it was "rough". ;)
 
Thanks, I sure wasn't thinking modding this Norc was going to be so exciting.

Oh well, at least others will get a heads up if they go down this road.

Yes, it did look the way I wanted with the US bling. Balance is real nice and it shoots great.

good thing I have a progressive cause this thing is HUNGRY.

I now suspect the 5 rds mag limit is to keep us from going broke too soon.

But I must say, 10rds is way more fun... then there are quick mag change drills.

Making lots of noise.

Jerry
 
200yds plinking today. NO worries with min of bad guy accuracy. If I can see the rock and put the dot on it, I can hit it.

4MOA dot I think so we aren't hitting pop cans but a very effective rig for what it was designed to do.

Close to 500rds now. Still looks clean and is running without a hiccup.

Set up a side bag to catch the empties - chasing empties is the only thing I hate about this rifle.

Had to make some simple mods but it is working very well. 2 10rds mags and first mag missed a couple of cases. Did a tweak and second mag dumped into the bag.

Came home and gave the bag some support. Should work great - I hope.

Got to keep it from causing chambering issues (empties can bounce back into the action which kind of kills the fun). Then run and gun will be lots better.

Jerry
 
How is your trigger firing now after 500 rounds. I did this simple tune up found here and it cleaned mine up really, really well. I helped it along with a steel brush bit and dremil and did the dry fire trick for about an hour while watching a movie. Feels like a 2 stage trigger now. Still a little ruff, but 100% better.
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Trigger is working great and is pretty much a single stage pull. There is still a hint of creep but that is necessary with these types of triggers. Got to go modify one of the parts to make the safety full engage.

Don't know about the bending the spring legs. I guess that is to help reduce the spring pressure. Something simple enough to try.

The other part of 'dry firing' will help but I think proper stoning would get a much nicer job. The method will cause the mating surfaces to smooth but slooooow - if really ambitious, jewellers rouge instead of grease would get the job done a whole lot faster.

1200 grit lapping compound would work great too.

Just make sure it is all cleaned out from anywhere in your lower.

What it will not do is get rid of the creep inherent in the design. If the trigger smooths up to become a two stage, great but with my 3 stage trigger, the adjustment I did is WAY better. Infinitely adjustable and can be returned to orig or two stage if desired. Except the mod part to make the safety work now may not work if returned to orig format.

I don't intend to go back to my 3 stage trigger anytime soon.

I will have a look at the springs and see if that can reduce the pull somemore but it is working great right now.

Jerry
 
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