My thinking for a first hunting rifle

I'll see your Finnish plastic and raise you American walnut and blued steel.


Haha, beauty!

Also if op likes Ruger options and thinking of detach mags pt&g has aics mag bottom ends available. If I did get the stainless Hawkeye Hunter I’d probably grab that too just to have the configuration options on hand but it would be hard to not love that beautiful stainless hinged the most.
 
Is it pretty common to shoot close enough to other hunters that a muzzle brake is going to be a problem for them? Like when you guys are dogging or whatever, are multiple shooters right beside each other shooting at the same time?

I have several Rifle's with Brakes - Some are louder then others depends on the cartridge and type of Brake . I’m not a fan of them while hunting either !
I was the range the other day and a guy had a LW custom 300 Win Mag and a Custom made brake ! LOUDEST PHUCKING rifle I have ever heard ! RJ
 
Being fairly new at the sport myself, I'd say to the OP soak up some of the wisdom here and you'll be good. If you look there's a pattern to the advice, with a lot of people ending up with a similar result.

I took the long way to getting my first decent rifle and scope, trying to pinch pennies along the way. All I learned from that is I should have just bought the right rifle and scope the first time, and skipped the expense and frustration of shedding cheap gear for actual stuff you could rely on. A 30-06 Tikka Superlight Stainless was where I ended up, and I've upgraded the optic a couple times along the way to one that cost more than the rifle. Learned a lot in the process, unfortunately sometimes you buy the wrong gear and use it for a while, but it helps you be happy with your choices down the road.

Good luck.
 
Being fairly new at the sport myself, I'd say to the OP soak up some of the wisdom here and you'll be good. If you look there's a pattern to the advice, with a lot of people ending up with a similar result.

I took the long way to getting my first decent rifle and scope, trying to pinch pennies along the way. All I learned from that is I should have just bought the right rifle and scope the first time, and skipped the expense and frustration of shedding cheap gear for actual stuff you could rely on. A 30-06 Tikka Superlight Stainless was where I ended up, and I've upgraded the optic a couple times along the way to one that cost more than the rifle. Learned a lot in the process, unfortunately sometimes you buy the wrong gear and use it for a while, but it helps you be happy with your choices down the road.

Good luck.

Nice post Bud . And Good Wisdom too ! The T3X SL 30-06 is a nice rifle . What are you running for glass on yours and what rings ? RJ
 
I’ll just edit that down because it’s besides the point, I was just commenting on it being unnecessary. Which is just my opinion.

My understanding is that the doggers rarely see anything as the deer they're driving have eff'd off way before a dogger sees them. If you get a shot, it's a target of opportunity, and the guys are saying they want to put red dots on their rifles for that job. I don't believe anyone is that close to eachother, but it's all second hand info from me at this point.
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You can't beat that.

The complaints about "plastic" etc are just about always perception vs reality.

You've got a few rifles Jim haha. By now think you've figured out what works and what don't ;P Lemme guess no parts breakages yet?

It's not just about "perception". It having plastic parts is fact. Just like fhe fella that mistakenly thought a 7.62x39 was equal ballistically to a. 308 (not even quite a match for a 30-30...), we can observe and measure.

I don't want to start ripping on anyone's guns, but there's a few things that people either don't notice, or ignore as unimportant. Friends of mine and Remington Jim like their Tikkas, and that's fine. But these are few reasons I don't get excited about them. Plastic bolt shrouds. Work fine until they break. Might never break, but they are prone to it, and they don't catch hot gases in case of a case rupture very well and can blow right out. I guess they can be replaced by aluminum shrouds, for a bit of an upgrade through the aftermarket. Lot's of neat looking bolt handles out there for these and presumably easy to change. Problem with that is that unlike traditional one piece forgings, these are rather delicate in comparison and exist just because it was cheaper and easier to make. All plastic bottom. Maybe it's a little lighter, but it will certainly experience a higher probability of failure over metal. And I'd take milled steel, over the later cast pot metal on most newer rifles. Delicate plastic (?) bolt stop. One fella at least has cycled his action briskly for a follow up shot, and ended up ripping the bolt out of the gun. May have told it wrong, as it doesn't sound like a total show stopper, but his friend's Chinese gun finished off the animal. One action length. Maybe it's my inherent cheapness, but why would I want to pay a premium dollar for a short action chambering to put it in a long action gun with a stop for the shorter cartridge. Kinda defeats the purpose IMO. Aluminum recoil lugs in the stock I've heard have a tendency to bend, and those again can be upgraded to stainless. The stock has mixed reviews, and I can't really comment on it much, other than I wasn't impressed by what I saw. Some guys upgrade it to an aftermarket stock for another several hundred bucks. Forgot to mention that bottom metal can also be bought. The receiver is cast I believe, and drilled out. The resultant loading port is quite small, which I'm not a fan of.

I think I may be missing stuff, but they do charge quite a bit for so many shortcuts. They are capable of fine accuracy, but so is just about everything else these days. And some might be less ham fisted than myself also. I once broke a a hydraulic tong for tubing on a service rig.. mostly out of spite...
 
My understanding is that the doggers rarely see anything as the deer they're driving have eff'd off way before a dogger sees them. If you get a shot, it's a target of opportunity, and the guys are saying they want to put red dots on their rifles for that job. I don't believe anyone is that close to eachother, but it's all second hand info from me at this point.
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Thing is, your buddies may be yanking your chain about dogging. Its not for everyone, and unlikely that a newbie to camp is going to be given the responsibility. So there is a good chance you'll be sitting on watch for a few years, then graduate to assistant dogger. At that point you may find that dogging is not for you. At our camp of a dozen individuals, only three of us elect to dog - its not an easy job, and requires some bush sense which many folks dont have.
If you truly think you want to dog, select your gun accordingly. Doggers do see deer, often at times, and they will be on the run. Thats why I use a pump - you can cycle the gun quickly without losing your sight picture and taking your hand off the pistol grip, something duck hunters appreciate with their pump shotguns.
 
LMFFAO ! Pretty funny post there “ tactical lever “ Your Probaly a Nice Guy so I will just leave it Be . :p RJ

Pretty much.

Would suggest talking with some very high mileage Tikka users (there are some on this board, like on National shooting teams) and asking how often any of that stuff is a concern...and what they torque the action screws to with that bottom plastic lol.

So let's "observe and measure" then. Whats the failure rate on these parts? Besides anecdotal "my buddy broke a bolt stop" stories?
 
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I have hunted the same area. Most of the people I hunt with carry 30/30 lever guns for deer. 308 or 30-06 for moose.

Your choice of 308 for both is good. You won't be leaving wounded game behind.

And a good gun with a fixed 2.5 or 4.0 mag scope, or a red dot would be a good gun.

As dogger, for deer, I recommend open sights. You just don't get much time to respond. A nice Browing BLR in 308 would be a good choice.

Best of luck.
 
Nice post Bud . And Good Wisdom too ! The T3X SL 30-06 is a nice rifle . What are you running for glass on yours and what rings ? RJ

My last upgrade is to a Vortex Razor HD LHT 3-15 X 42 on Talley one piece mediums. Just had it out last week and it looks like it's the 500y package I've been working towards.

I get that Tikka is not for everyone, but I put my son on a 6.5 CM Superlite for his first full size rifle, and don't regret it at all. OK, the fact that the mags are the same as mine is a tiny bit annoying lol.
 
Doubt controlled round feed is really an advantage over a Tikka...or that besides prefernce of look or fit/comfort which is individual, the other rifles come with better stocks.

The model 70 offers more then just a control round feed over the Tikka. It's got an integral recoil lug machined into the receiver instead of a insert. The Bell and Carlson stock is an improvement, that also comes bedded from the factory the Tikka's does not come bedded. The Classic Mauser styled bolt is jeweled creating a smoother and better performing action (Though it is still 90 degree over a 60 degree bolt throw). It's three position safety is also an improvement, allowing one to use the bolt while keeping the firearm on safe. It's also got a one peace metal trigger guard/magazine plate instead of plastic. With an integrally built magazine instead of a plastic removable one. Which IMO when hunting is superior to both the handling of the firearm when walking bush as well as adding zero possible chances of loosing your magazine. Overall it's a better firearm, though it is more expensive and it commands a higher price point due to it. Really there is nothing wrong with a Tikka T3x, but if he's going to eventually replace the stock etc.. Then IMO going with a model that all ready has all the improvements he's going to do, right out the gate from factory seems like the way to go. The Tikka wins on price, and it's a fine firearm in it's price range but it doesn't win on price when you start adding on the price of upgrades, like a new stock and a bedding job, as well as the tax's and shipping costs to do so. Why waste time, and money on improving a cheaper firearm when one exists right off the shelf with all of the improvements most hunters would do to a T3x. I say save on time, taxes and shipping by buying it right the first time.
 
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All subjective except for the potential to lose the magazine part.

IF you want to change any parts on a Tikka, sure. Just as possible to not want to change any parts. They'll shoot at least as well as the Win 70 in factory stock and don't need bedding to do so.

The Winchester bolt is arguably not as smooth and certainly in no way better.
 
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LMFFAO ! Pretty funny post there “ tactical lever “ Your Probaly a Nice Guy so I will just leave it Be . :p RJ

Funny how? I like to think I'm a good guy, if not so much a nice guy. Which is why I put a little bit more information about the construction of the Tikka out there. A lot of fellas don't have as much experience with them as you do, so they're not as familiar. You seem comfortable with them, and that's OK by me, but don't you think the guys that aren't, should know a little more about them?

Feel free to refute whatever I posted. I have broad enough shoulders to have a good debate about it. We can compare brands, and you might have a chuckle over some of the old rifles I use.
 
Pretty much.

Would suggest talking with some very high mileage Tikka users (there are some on this board, like on National shooting teams) and asking how often any of that stuff is a concern...and what they torque the action screws to with that bottom plastic lol.

So let's "observe and measure" then. Whats the failure rate on these parts? Besides anecdotal "my buddy broke a bolt stop" stories?

I see you edited your post. I had seen what you typed before, and you had probably realized that several(?) years back, those details were as I said they were. The new ones might have some upgraded parts, but my point stands. Not sure if the aluminum would eventually gall, but I guess it's replaceable and better than the plastic.

I'm sure there is some metal insert in the stock to help anchor the screws; you'd know better than I. But the trigger guard, mag well, and magazine are all plastic, so torque away I guess.

It doesn't confront me to know about your equally anecdotal acquaintances who use high mileage Tikka. I understand it's probably pretty stressful on a gun being a range queen and all that, but what's the consequences of a range queen failure? A walk back to the truck to get another rifle to continue shooting with?

I have no idea what the failure rate would be, except that it happens from time to time. Do you have stats on Marlin jams or Remington triggers?
 
I have several Rifle's with Brakes - Some are louder then others depends on the cartridge and type of Brake . I’m not a fan of them while hunting either !
I was the range the other day and a guy had a LW custom 300 Win Mag and a Custom made brake ! LOUDEST PHUCKING rifle I have ever heard ! RJ

Don't have any rifles with brakes. Rather take a bit of a thumping than blow my ears out. I don't use ear protection while hunting, and the recoil for a shot while I'm standing (usually am when taking a shot) isn't such a bit deal when hunting. One of my friends has a .300 RUM braked, and I had plugs, muffs, and I was still shocked and jumped when it went off on an open air range! Brutal.
 
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