I'm opposed to the use of muzzle brakes on normal hunting rifles. The problem with the lead sled is that you can only use it when shooting at the bench, so it works, but isn't a very versatile.
Recoil management comes down to your physical ability, your mental toughness, and your desire to master a particular firearm. These things are designed to be used by normal people, it will just take a little time to reach your comfort level with it. Whatever you do, don't force yourself to continue to shoot if the rifle hurts you, and if possible, never allow that rifle to hurt you. When you feel discomfort, stop and give yourself some time before shooting again, or reduce the load before you shoot again. The higher your position, the less you'll feel the recoil, consider the difference between off hand and prone, yet shooting a .30/06 prone should not be beyond the comfort level of a physically active individual, but that doesn't mean you have to lie there and fire 100 rounds either. You'll know when its time to stop.
Gun fit is the most often over looked element of recoil management, and it is probably the most important. Most factory rifles have a LOP that is too long, and a thick recoil pad only makes things worse, if the stock is not first shortened. Placement of the scope relative to the LOP is critically important, you won't shoot well if you're scared of being hit with the scope.
The next important consideration is your technique. If you hold the rifle incorrectly, it will pound you. Lets consider off hand for a moment. If you take a boxer's stance, bend the knee of your forward leg slightly and put your weight on it, provided the rifle is placed and held firmly in the pocket of the shoulder, the recoil will move across your chest and down your other leg. Thus the position is not only manageable, but you have the control necessary to make fast repeat shots. But if you attempt to have even weight on both feet, with your feet placed close together and a light hold on the rifle, it will not only pound you, but will knock you off balance as well. Don't anticipate the recoil. If you concentrate on the fundamentals of good marksmanship, there isn't any opportunity to think about recoil, you'll be too busy.
When you said that you preferred to stick with the hotter loads as they were more accurate, I assume from that you handload. Choose a lighter bullet and slow it down. Don't worry so much about the accuracy when you're shooting from field positions, the rifle will still out-shoot you. The load I start novices with is a 125-130 gr bullet at 2600 fps. This is gentler than the Remington Managed Recoil load in both recoil and blast. Once you've achieved a comfort level with that load, speed it up gradually until you've reached the maximum load. One you've conquered the full power light bullets, increase bullet weight, and again drop the velocity a bit, but not as much this time. The original military .30/06 load was a 150 gr bullet at 2700 fps. This is well below the potential for that bullet weight, and you should be able to gain confidence fairly quickly with it. That conquered, you can choose to go to a 165 gr gr bullet or step up to a 180. Some folks choose never shoot bullets heavier than these in a .30/06, but with maximum loads in these bullet weights, you'll probably notice when your rifle goes off, but it's effect on you should be invigorating rather than intimidating.
